Q&A on upgrading imagine 2600rb suspension

[Riverbug]

There are a couple of us that installed the Roadmaster shock absorbers on our Imagines. I've had very good results so far. When we arrive at our destination the rear kitchen drawers are stilled closed and the dinette cushions are still in place - prior to the shocks that was never the case. I wanted to put slipper springs on but they don't make them for my size trailer/axles. I installed them myself and they weren't too bad, just takes time. Don't even have to jack up the trailer or take wheels off. Also put Endurance tires on before FL trip a year ago and been happy with them as well.

[masterdrago]

Seems that you're doing a lot of different things to both the truck and trailer. We are towing the 2600RB loaded to 7400# with 850# on the truck hitch, including the 200# ProPride 3-1400 hitch. The TV is a stock 2022 F150 Platinum with non LT tires @51PSI. After several tweaks to the weight distribution bars and hitch bar, the trailer tows and feels very much like our old Montana 5th wheel behind the Ram 3500 dually. Solid, smooth with no porpoising. Granted, the hitch was near $4k but no other changes have been made to truck or trailer which came with the Goodyear Endurance load range E rated at 2860# @80PSI.

[Petrovsky]

Seems that you're doing a lot of different things to both the truck and trailer. We are towing the 2600RB loaded to 7400# with 850# on the truck hitch, including the 200# ProPride 3-1400 hitch. The TV is a stock 2022 F150 Platinum with non LT tires @51PSI. After several tweaks to the weight distribution bars and hitch bar, the trailer tows and feels very much like our old Montana 5th wheel behind the Ram 3500 dually. Solid, smooth with no porpoising. Granted, the hitch was near $4k but no other changes have been made to truck or trailer which came with the Goodyear Endurance load range E rated at 2860# @80PSI.

I did initially consider getting the Hensley or Pro Pride but the cost in Canadian $ was quite prohibitive. I did not really have a sway issues so opted for the equalizer as have had this on previous Jayco TT. Curious about the max pressure on your truck's tires. Currently I have the Michelin Defender LTX MS (not a true LT tire) and inflate to 44 psi when towing. However, the tires are somewhat soft on the sidewalls so bouncier than a true LT tire and they tend to compress (lean) on curves. It is a good tire with a tongue weight near 1000 and truck rear suspension sag I should be able to have less bounce. My Sierra is mechanically set-up for towing....all maxed out. The payload is just over 2000lbs BUT the suspension is soft as it is designed for a smooth comfortable ride.

[Petrovsky]

There are a couple of us that installed the Roadmaster shock absorbers on our Imagines. I've had very good results so far. When we arrive at our destination the rear kitchen drawers are stilled closed and the dinette cushions are still in place - prior to the shocks that was never the case. I wanted to put slipper springs on but they don't make them for my size trailer/axles. I installed them myself and they weren't too bad, just takes time. Don't even have to jack up the trailer or take wheels off. Also put Endurance tires on before FL trip a year ago and been happy with them as well.

That is what I am looking for as well. Thanks for the confirmation.

[masterdrago]

Both tire and truck label say 50. Payload sticker says 1777#, so minus 850 leaves ~900. With our occupants, leaves 500+ for firewood and other "stuff". The PP3 puts weight off the tongue back to front axle and trailer axles when adjusted correctly, running trailer level.

[Petrovsky]

Both tire and truck label say 50. Payload sticker says 1777#, so minus 850 leaves ~900. With our occupants, leaves 500+ for firewood and other "stuff". The PP3 puts weight off the tongue back to front axle and trailer axles when adjusted correctly, running trailer level.

The difference between Ford and GM and tires. My door sticker says around 35 psi. However, the tires I think go up to 50 max, can't check as in back of shed now. Got the winters on.

[Stealth13777]

Your plan sounds good, but I think you are failing to address this primary issue, which is likely improper hitch adjustment.

I run a blue ox, which is less work to set up, but one chain link different is a big change, and two becomes uncomfortable. I originally had bouncing on bridges like you describe with our old little trailer and heavy 1k# bars. It got better with 750# bars, and then when I got them adjusted right, it became a whole lot better. Bilstein 4600s on the rear solidified the ride even more. Then I did the fronts with 4600s too and it was like everything suddenly worked together - I was shocked how much difference it made (mind you, my truck has 90k on it so it was also due for shocks). The hitch plus shocks and Michelin LTXs (not LT tires) and it was rock solid all over the country and weighed on the scale at 7000#, which is the rated max.

Our new trailer was same deal. Not bad but not great until I got the hitch right. Now it’s super comfortable.

Lot of words to say I think step one is to get the hitch right - that will likely make the most difference. Lots of ability to adjust the equalizers. Then shocks are a good plan and I understand holding off on the fronts, especially if the truck is newer. Air bags aren’t a bad plan after that. Roadmaster active suspension is another option (that I’ve never tried). I’ve pulled with a Chevy too, and I think the modern trucks generally have enough spring if you aren’t over payload - my experience is that the overloads take over and do well. Some brand trucks have very little payload to begin with and are oft overloaded, requiring more help, but it doesn’t sound like that’s the case here. If it’s soft, absolutely air/helpers make a difference. If it’s bouncy/underdamped, then it needs shocks.

All the trailer stuff is worth it and will help the ride and trailer itself. Good luck! Imo you’re on the right track, just dial the hitch in too!