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  1. #1
    Site Sponsor jsm180's Avatar
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    Trim piece search 27RL

    Looking for this piece of trim. It covers what is apparently a factory cut in the outside wall at the lower forward corner of the wardroom slide. Mine is missing. GD Parts lookup doesn't show anything and I refuse to go back to Lazy Days. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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    2003 Ford F250 6.0 CC 4wd SB
    2016 Reflection 27RL
    1999 Keystone Sprinter 27FWBHGL (SOLD)

  2. #2
    Big Traveler
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    Would call GD parts directly and ask them about the part.

    https://www.granddesignrv.com/shopping-tools/contact-us
    Jim and Annette
    2019 Reflection 150 295RL
    US Army Veteran
    Missouri (AKA Misery)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsm180 View Post
    Looking for this piece of trim. It covers what is apparently a factory cut in the outside wall at the lower forward corner of the wardroom slide. Mine is missing. GD Parts lookup doesn't show anything and I refuse to go back to Lazy Days. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Size:	57.7 KB 
ID:	43957
    That's probably something similar to this panel trim... but I'm not sure how easy it will be to replace. I would probably cut the backside flanges off and use white RV silicon to attach the front piece.

    https://www.amazon.com/Outwater-Plas...ef=mp_s_a_1_8?
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
    2019 Reflection 337RLS
    2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
    Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
    Front Stabilizer Bar
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  4. #4
    Site Sponsor jsm180's Avatar
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    Calling GD is a last resort. The trim from Amazon would be tough to attach as the cut is freehand, not straight at all. I have some tan Eternabond that would seal it, but it wouldn't look like the original. Thanks for the help.
    2003 Ford F250 6.0 CC 4wd SB
    2016 Reflection 27RL
    1999 Keystone Sprinter 27FWBHGL (SOLD)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsm180 View Post
    Calling GD is a last resort. The trim from Amazon would be tough to attach as the cut is freehand, not straight at all. I have some tan Eternabond that would seal it, but it wouldn't look like the original. Thanks for the help.
    As long as the trim is wide enough to cover the cut maybe it would still work if only the front plastic portion was used.
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
    2019 Reflection 337RLS
    2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
    Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
    Front Stabilizer Bar
    Rear Anti Sway Bar

  6. #6
    Seasoned Camper
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    Many 5th wheels have this trim and I suspect it's because if they did not have this cut piece, the panel would naturally break from the loads of the trailer. I would not stop at GD and look at other manufacturers. I suspect there may be a lot of flex so just plain silicone would probably not last that long. Silicone, then clean up the area really well, topped up with a proper slice of eterna bond tape may look good.

  7. #7
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    There should be a ban on silicone on RVs. Use an adhesive sealant. Think marine caulk. If it works for above and below waterline fittings, it'll work on the side on an RV - trust me. Once you replace the silicone with adhesive sealants you'll never go back. I know it'll start arguments, so that's all I'll say on that.
    Chad
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  8. #8
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    There should be a ban on silicone on RVs. Use an adhesive sealant. Think marine caulk. If it works for above and below waterline fittings, it'll work on the side on an RV - trust me. Once you replace the silicone with adhesive sealants you'll never go back. I know it'll start arguments, so that's all I'll say on that.
    Recommended brand? [emoji16]
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

  9. #9
    Site Sponsor jsm180's Avatar
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    3m 5200 is a good marine sealant, but is not very flexible.

    I used Sika Pro Select from Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sika-10-1-o...lant/999977054 on my last camper.
    2003 Ford F250 6.0 CC 4wd SB
    2016 Reflection 27RL
    1999 Keystone Sprinter 27FWBHGL (SOLD)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    Recommended brand? [emoji16]
    It's less about the brand, more about the type. 5200 is pretty strong stuff though if you ever need to remove it, 4200 is better. Local stores will carry Sikaflex, Loctite, or other brands. Look for Marine Adhesive Sealants or Caulking. That's the main thing. Not silicone.

    ...There will be a difference in ease of application and removal. People like silicone because (aside from the fact that it's the cheapest) it is easy to smooth out and clean up, and it removes easily, because you know, after a few years it's pretty much not sticking very well so you can pull it off in one long strand. Adhesive caulk takes a bit more time and patience to apply and smooth out if you can do it the first run with the tip (practice will help). You know those cracks on the roof where the trim lays over the roof membrane? Start there. Lay down a bead, smooth it with your finger or whatever and check back in a few years, you won't ever use self-leveling garbage again. It'll still be intact, no cracks, and no matter what anyone says, it won't be a problem with your membrane. I'm not sure what people think it will do to it but they refer to manufactures "compatible" products. Uh ha, to make sure you keep buying and applying it over and over. Okay, I'm done...
    Last edited by Riverbug; 11-27-2022 at 05:35 PM.
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

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