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  1. #11
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    A couple of more tips...run grease through your new wet bolts before installing to make sure there is no issue with flow, and grease up the wet bolt before installing. If you have a bench vise, you can use that to push the new bushings into the springs and equalizer. First clean up the insides of the parts and apply some grease, some will go in pretty easy but you may need a vice or hammer for others.
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyStar View Post
    Attachment 43974

    Once I got a jack stand behind the rear spring hanger and in front of the front spring hanger, I removed the wheels and slid them under the trailer frame with some wood blocks on top of each for safety. Also, once on the stands, I used the bottle jack to support one axle and a floor jack under the other. One other trick is a 2x6 cut to fit between the axles to hold that exact distance while everything is loose.

    Of course, chock the other side.

    The only real “under the rv” work was to hammer the wet bolts into the spring hangers. Other than that, most of the work is from the side.

    Another tip is to have a bag of new wet bolt nuts as they are single use.

    The best part of DIY is that you know it is done properly.
    I really like that block and jack setup. I'm going to have to get a bottle jack and do it that way next time. Thanks!
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

  3. #13
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    Fairly straightforward and when you are finished you will have a nice set of jacks and jack stands for the next time. The last 3 lost pretty much cover what you need. Just make sure you have the new bolts rotated up to allow the grease into the bolts without having to jack them up and relieve the pressure from the bolts. I would buy a Morryde Heavy duty shackle/ wet bolt kit. They were much heavier than our stock bolts. Don't forget, you will need a Torque wrench. Also if you were wanting to add the Morryde CRE 3000 system, now is the time while you have it apart.

    You will get it done quicker, and cheaper, and have the knowledge and tools for the next time.

  4. #14
    Rolling Along
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    All good advice so far. Others have suggested heavy duty shackles and I definitely second or third that. When I did mine, Etrailer had a nice heavy duty equalizer with a rubber damper in it. I think it was a Dexter part but not completely sure. That made a noticeable difference in ride smoothness.

    Also, when I took mine apart, the wet bolts were installed with the fitting/head on the inside. I put mine in from the outside so I don't have to get under the trailer for a pump of grease. Whenever I do it, the tires are off for general inspection anyway, so it works out well for me.

  5. #15
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    Okay, last tip...measure your shackles for length hole to hole, and measure your equalizer (if you decide to upgrade that at the same time). I relied on eTrailer chat for the right parts but ended up sending back the wrong size equalizers and shackle/wet bolt kit. Measure first and find the match online before you order from wherever you get your parts.
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

  6. #16
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    Well, got the TT back today from the dealer, since they never called me back so I could stop them from doing the wheel bearings, you guessed it, it's done.

    They inspected the suspension bolts and said they looked great, no concerns at all.

    Need to start planning the tools/parts that I will need to do the suspension and get it on the calendar, maybe next year
    2021 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
    2022 Imagine 2500RL

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toy4Rick View Post
    Well, got the TT back today from the dealer, since they never called me back so I could stop them from doing the wheel bearings, you guessed it, it's done.

    They inspected the suspension bolts and said they looked great, no concerns at all.

    Need to start planning the tools/parts that I will need to do the suspension and get it on the calendar, maybe next year
    Its because you were not wanting it done. If you need it in a hurry, it would be 3 months....

    At least its finished.

  8. #18
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toy4Rick View Post
    Well, got the TT back today from the dealer, since they never called me back so I could stop them from doing the wheel bearings, you guessed it, it's done.

    They inspected the suspension bolts and said they looked great, no concerns at all.

    Need to start planning the tools/parts that I will need to do the suspension and get it on the calendar, maybe next year
    I suggest you go with the Lippert Never Fail bushings instead. I have had 3 trailers with the greasable bushings and they are just a little better than the Nylon ones IMO. The trouble with them is there is nothing to keep the grease in them. No seal etc. aby the time you get on the highway, most of the grease has exited. One would need to grease them constantly to make them live to their potential. I ended up installing the Neverfails on my last TT. I like them a lot better. When the greasable ones on my Momentum fail, I will install the Never Fails.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    I suggest you go with the Lippert Never Fail bushings instead. I have had 3 trailers with the greasable bushings and they are just a little better than the Nylon ones IMO. The trouble with them is there is nothing to keep the grease in them. No seal etc. aby the time you get on the highway, most of the grease has exited. One would need to grease them constantly to make them live to their potential. I ended up installing the Neverfails on my last TT. I like them a lot better. When the greasable ones on my Momentum fail, I will install the Never Fails.
    Interesting. After researching it's another poly bushing. Good if it works, just can't imagine how that would hold up better than a bronze bushing with or without proper grease. Couldn't find any reviews that indicated how well they hold up, only reviews immediately after install which say "time will tell". But if it works, great. But considering it's the same company that put those crappy nylon bushing on in the first place, I'd question their marketing claims. Really, I'm just kidding about that. I'm just skeptical...
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

  10. #20
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    Interesting. After researching it's another poly bushing. Good if it works, just can't imagine how that would hold up better than a bronze bushing with or without proper grease. Couldn't find any reviews that indicated how well they hold up, only reviews immediately after install which say "time will tell". But if it works, great. But considering it's the same company that put those crappy nylon bushing on in the first place, I'd question their marketing claims. Really, I'm just kidding about that. I'm just skeptical...
    I had them on my 2010 Palomino Sabre. They claim they will last 50,000 miles.
    I know I put more than that on them. I was Field Trialing my Brittany's then. I had a lot of 1,000 mile weekends then. Went to Nationals twice which put another 10,000 on, and many hunting trips in between. IME having used both, they work and last. And no greasing.
    If you really look at the grease bushings with a mechanical eye, it is obvious that the grease pumped into them won't stay there long.
    Probably be gone at the first fuel stop.
    Last edited by huntindog; 12-01-2022 at 06:42 AM.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
    800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
    2020 Silverado High Country 3500 dually crewcab Duramax Allison

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