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    Wall Removal bedroom of a 399TH

    I want to remove the interior MDF wall board around our bedroom slide. Mainly to inspect the frame and figure out why the GIB broke and a crack is forming on the outside. Can anyone tell me if the MDF is fully glued to the aluminum walls? Or is it removable so I can replace with new board if necessary. Thank you so much for any help!!!

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    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott_Heather View Post
    I want to remove the interior MDF wall board around our bedroom slide. Mainly to inspect the frame and figure out why the GIB broke and a crack is forming on the outside. Can anyone tell me if the MDF is fully glued to the aluminum walls? Or is it removable so I can replace with new board if necessary. ThankWh you so much for any help!!!
    What is the GIB?
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    The stationary part that holds the idler wheel on the shwintek slide system. held on by two rivets...

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    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Puzzled by your question because there's nothing in the wall related to the Schwintek. Everything is withing the wall opening. The interior wallboard is not MDF but is thin Luan with vinyl paper. The interior wallboard on exterior walls is laminated. If you are saying you have a crack forming through the exterior fiberglass, undoubtedly you have a broken weld in the aluminum frame.
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    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott_Heather View Post
    The stationary part that holds the idler wheel on the shwintek slide system. held on by two rivets...
    @Scott_Heather -

    Welcome to the forum. As others have said, disassembly of the wall is not necessary to get to the Schwintek slide components. And, as @geotex1 noted, the walls are pressure-laminated Luan on solid foam core around the aluminum frame. Those walls don't come apart without destroying them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    @Scott_Heather -

    Welcome to the forum. As others have said, disassembly of the wall is not necessary to get to the Schwintek slide components. And, as @geotex1 noted, the walls are pressure-laminated Luan on solid foam core around the aluminum frame. Those walls don't come apart without destroying them.

    Here are a few forum tips:

    1) If you use "Reply With Quote" (to the right of "Reply") as I have here, folks will know to whom you are responding and that person will get a notification.

    2) You can also tag folks using the "@" symbol and their user name (as I have done yours) - they'll also get a notification that way.

    3) If you choose to get a paid membership (nominal cost and well worth it), you can create a signature block with your RV and tow vehicle information (see mine below). That way you won't have to repeat that information whenever you post or ask a question - and others won't have to ask. You can create a signature by going to:

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    Rob
    @geotext1

    Thank you both for the response. SO I am obviously new to the forum so I am going to have some growing pains here, but the reason for wanting to take the wall apart is to find a potential cracked aluminum wall frame. I know that the slide mechanism is installed essentially in place, by having the slide part way out etc. That part should be easyish... :-) BUT the crack in my full paint exterior scares me and I would rather deal with putting the interior back together, (wife wants to renovate the bedroom), then muck up the exterior.

    I removed the front panel that goes from the pin box to the front of the generator. I found some past water damage and I am in the process of drying it out. I was inspecting the frame to see if there were any cracks or anything else, which would lead to the flex in the wall slide area. I had read on a frame post about a crack in the propane tank area etc. I have inspected these pretty good and do not see anything obvious. SOOO... I think I need to pull the laminated interior boards off, unless anyone has another suggestion.

    ANY and ALL help will be appreciated. I have the unit in my shop, so I am out of the elements and can take my time to figure this out. If I can figure out photos I will upload some for reference.

    Thanks everyone!!

    Scott
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    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    @Scott_Heather,

    You don't want to be in the wall yet. Get ahold of Lippert's frame flex worksheet and follow it and get the measurements. It's almost certain you have a frame failure somewhere. The sidewalls are not in any way designed to provide rigidity to the frame so if you have a failure in the sidewall it's more than likely manifestation of a frame issue. Slide-outs can break the opening framing, but that's almost always with through-frame mechanisms. Certainly twisting down the road can too when welds are poor. But these later possibilities are way more rare than it being a frame issue. You cannot find a lot of the usual break points unless you understand where to look, but if you search the history here there are lot of us who have posted pictures of our failures and repairs. Should the frame pass the Lippert calisthenics, we can provide guidance from there.
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    Quote Originally Posted by geotex1 View Post
    @Scott_Heather,

    You don't want to be in the wall yet. Get ahold of Lippert's frame flex worksheet and follow it and get the measurements. It's almost certain you have a frame failure somewhere. The sidewalls are not in any way designed to provide rigidity to the frame so if you have a failure in the sidewall it's more than likely manifestation of a frame issue. Slide-outs can break the opening framing, but that's almost always with through-frame mechanisms. Certainly twisting down the road can too when welds are poor. But these later possibilities are way more rare than it being a frame issue. You cannot find a lot of the usual break points unless you understand where to look, but if you search the history here there are lot of us who have posted pictures of our failures and repairs. Should the frame pass the Lippert calisthenics, we can provide guidance from there.
    Ok, THANK YOU for that information. I assume I should be able to find the worksheet on here? Than I will start the fun of measuring... I do know I have a Schwintek slide issue on one side and I will be ordering a new mechanism to fix that, but I agree with you on an underlying frame issue.

    Appreciate the expertise.

    Scott
    Western Mass
    2017 Momentum 399TH
    2019 GMC Crew Cab Dually Denali 8 foot bed,
    Gen-Y Gooseneck at the Pinbox.

  9. #9
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott_Heather View Post
    Ok, THANK YOU for that information. I assume I should be able to find the worksheet on here? Than I will start the fun of measuring... I do know I have a Schwintek slide issue on one side and I will be ordering a new mechanism to fix that, but I agree with you on an underlying frame issue.

    Appreciate the expertise.

    Scott
    A link to the measurement worksheet is here: https://redwoodrvowners.com/wp-conte...dflexguide.pdf

    According to my conversations with Lipper, the most common location for a crack in the side wall associated with broken welds in the upper deck is in the side wall near where the overhang starts. The crack often travels at a 30 degree angle away from the front cap. If there is excess flex based upon the measurements, the filon can be dropped and the welds of the upper deck can be inspected. It sounds like you may have already done that. I have heard of missing screws in the upper deck, too, so also check for that. Good luck.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails UD Flex Guide measurement sheet.pdf  
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fsalmy View Post
    A link to the measurement worksheet is here: https://redwoodrvowners.com/wp-conte...dflexguide.pdf

    According to my conversations with Lipper, the most common location for a crack in the side wall associated with broken welds in the upper deck is in the side wall near where the overhang starts. The crack often travels at a 30 degree angle away from the front cap. If there is excess flex based upon the measurements, the filon can be dropped and the welds of the upper deck can be inspected. It sounds like you may have already done that. I have heard of missing screws in the upper deck, too, so also check for that. Good luck.
    Thank you for the attachment... I will get that done and see what I find for flexion. I have dropped the "filon" all but what will not come out of the front cap, I assume adhesive tape is holding it. More importantly I wanted to check for water and anything obvious on the frame. I will have to take a closer look, but I do not have a great view into the wall area from under the filon. I do not want to deal with the front cap if possible, since all of the rubber gasket is full body paint and that would be a nightmare.... I think that is why I was thinking of removing the front bedroom cabinets and bed to gain access... thoughts? I fell confident enough to be able to rebuild or change what was there, based on my wife's designs, so the interior does not scare me as much. I just DO NOT want to make more work for myself.. LOL

    Thanks all for any thoughts and directions... so far everyone has had great input and direction!!!

    Scott
    Western Mass
    2017 Momentum 399TH
    2019 GMC Crew Cab Dually Denali 8 foot bed,
    Gen-Y Gooseneck at the Pinbox.

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