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Thread: Keeping the battery warm
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02-04-2023, 05:59 AM #21
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I installed a pair of these pads in my front bay. One under the battery, mounted to a thin piece of alum to disapate the heat, the other on top of the battery. I had trouble with the thermostat switch not turning on the pads, even in near zero temps (Freezer test with a 12V battery). I removed (Cut out & rewired) the thermostat control and use an Inkbird to turn on (& off) the pads. This has worked well, but it did not keep the batteries above 32*F last night, when the temp was near zero. The battery Temp was down to 32*F. Because it was near zero F last night, I had turned off the batteries (I have a battery disconnect between the batteries and the BusBar/Lynx Energy Distrabutor.)
These heating pads are rated @ 65W. I have a third pad, that is smaller and 100W, I may add this between the batteris for these extra cold nights.
Good Luck allClark and Jane (& Riley our Chocolate Lab)
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03-16-2024, 12:54 PM #22
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How did you remove the thermostat control? I haven't be able to find info about this anywhere else.
Also, anyone have a guess what would happen if you ran these with 24v? I'm guessing once the temperature sensor is removed you're just left with a resistive heating element. In which case, 24v would create twice as much power and twice as much heat. Hopefully not enough heat that it would melt the adhesive or anything like that.
They're cheap enough that I can buy one and test it out, but thought I'd throw it out there in case I'm missing some obvious reason this wouldn't work.
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03-16-2024, 04:08 PM #23
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I am not sure why you would need to remove the temperature sensor from the heating element. I would be worried about the heater burning itself out without the temperature sensor.
If you need to run the heater on 24 volts, I would recommend getting a heater that is designed for 24 volts instead of trying to run a 12v heater on 24 volts. I think the risk of burning out the heating element, right when you need it the most, is too great to risk operating a 12v heating pad at 24v.
What I would do instead of trying to operate the heating pad at 24v (presuming you can't get a 24v heater) is to simply wire the element from my 12v DC system, post DC-DC Converter.David and Peggy
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03-16-2024, 06:51 PM #24
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For the same reason as the OP.
A 65w resistive heating pad should be able to run at full power 24/7 and not burn itself out. We have 120v heating pads under our kitchen bar countertop (stone) that have run 24/7 for years.
Well I would of course if they made them. But Facon only makes 12v units and the few 24v pads I've found aren't as well made.
The point of having a 24v system is to run as much off of it as possible. And DC-DC converter do burn themselves out. Plus there's an efficiency loss.
Do you have an answer to either of my two original questions?
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03-17-2024, 08:51 PM #25
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03-18-2024, 05:17 AM #262021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
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03-18-2024, 08:13 AM #27
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Are you trolling or do you not understand simple electrical circuits? It's the most basic application of Ohm's law that when two equal resistors are in series they each get the same current but half the voltage. Total current drops in half because total resistance doubles. Do some Googling and you'll find many resources that explain this in more detail.
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