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Thread: Water tank leak

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerislandbrew View Post
    I have a 303 rls with a 6 gallon dometic/ Atwood type hot water system. Model # GC6AA-10E. I discovered a leak outside, then traced it to the hot water outlet, (red hose) at the top of the tank. It was weeping water where it screwed into the metal fitting. Naturally it broke off flush when I tried to un thread it from the tank. The fitting that goes into the tank has a spring loaded check valve of some kind and is made of plastic. I am having difficulty identifying this part. Also the dilemma of removing the plastic threaded broken end from the metal fitting. Does anyone have experience with this issue?
    Thanks everyone for the advice. I bought a brass check valve for replacement. I was warned this might not be an easy job, as the EZ out to extract plastic threads may not work. Naturally that proved more then accurate. I ended up sawing grooves with a jig saw blade. Then using a screwdriver and hammer to pry out pieces. Most of the plastic was stuck like it was welded. I used a soldering gun with a flat heating element to melt and leverage out plastic. I then bought a 1/2" nppt thread tapper to clean and push the plastic out. I followed that with a dremal size wire cup brush to finish cleaning the tank threads. Then inserted a brass check valve. NEVER PLASTIC AGAIN! What a job...
    Alan and Paula
    2019 Reflection 303 RLS, 2004 Dodge 3500 5.9L
    Magnum 2k watt inverter-charger, 300 AH Battle Born battery bank, 560 watt solar power. 6K axles and disc brakes. Pepwave max transit cellular router.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerislandbrew View Post
    Thanks everyone for the advice. I bought a brass check valve for replacement. I was warned this might not be an easy job, as the EZ out to extract plastic threads may not work. Naturally that proved more then accurate. I ended up sawing grooves with a jig saw blade. Then using a screwdriver and hammer to pry out pieces. Most of the plastic was stuck like it was welded. I used a soldering gun with a flat heating element to melt and leverage out plastic. I then bought a 1/2" nppt thread tapper to clean and push the plastic out. I followed that with a dremal size wire cup brush to finish cleaning the tank threads. Then inserted a brass check valve. NEVER PLASTIC AGAIN! What a job...
    Glad you got it!
    Larry and JoAnna
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  3. #13
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    Was going post a link to a brass check valve, but you done went and completed the job! Glad you got it.

    Bill
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
    2020 Reflection 315RLTS

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redapple63 View Post
    Was going post a link to a brass check valve, but you done went and completed the job! Glad you got it.

    Bill
    I've heard a lot of discussion concerning plumbing tape. The consensus is that its not that effective and using a quality plumbers pipe thread sealant goop, is better as a stand alone. I used Rector seal T plus 2 with PTFE. Available at most hardware stores. I applied a good coating to the brass check valve and no leakage was found. I think I may be done with tape.
    Alan and Paula
    2019 Reflection 303 RLS, 2004 Dodge 3500 5.9L
    Magnum 2k watt inverter-charger, 300 AH Battle Born battery bank, 560 watt solar power. 6K axles and disc brakes. Pepwave max transit cellular router.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redapple63 View Post
    Was going post a link to a brass check valve, but you done went and completed the job! Glad you got it.

    Bill
    Thanks. I found one locally at a shop that has specialized in RV and boat supplies. Lucky on that score anyway..
    Alan and Paula
    2019 Reflection 303 RLS, 2004 Dodge 3500 5.9L
    Magnum 2k watt inverter-charger, 300 AH Battle Born battery bank, 560 watt solar power. 6K axles and disc brakes. Pepwave max transit cellular router.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerislandbrew View Post
    I have a 303 rls with a 6 gallon dometic/ Atwood type hot water system. Model # GC6AA-10E. I discovered a leak outside, then traced it to the hot water outlet, (red hose) at the top of the tank. It was weeping water where it screwed into the metal fitting. Naturally it broke off flush when I tried to un thread it from the tank. The fitting that goes into the tank has a spring loaded check valve of some kind and is made of plastic. I am having difficulty identifying this part. Also the dilemma of removing the plastic threaded broken end from the metal fitting. Does anyone have experience with this issue?
    I'm too late to this party but Orbit makes this tool for removing 1/2" and 3/4" nipples that break off inside a fitting. I use this often when making sprinkler system repairs. Home Depot and Lowes carry it, or $5.00 on Amazon.

    Orbit Sprinkler System 1/2-Inch & 3/4-Inch Plastic Pipe Nipple Extractor 26076
    https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Sprinkl...21&sr=8-2&th=1

    Dustin
    Dustin and Doris

    2018 2600RB
    2016 Tundra: 5.7L with towing package.

  7. #17
    Rolling Along
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    I'm also late to this party, but dissimilar (galvanic) corrosion is a real concern. If the tank is steel, a brass fitting will not be much of a problem, but I have heard that newer water heaters are becoming aluminum.

    Brass and aluminum REALLY don't like each other and your first indication of a problem is you will never get the fitting apart.

    To be safe, I would use a stainless fitting between brass and aluminum. It is not ideal, but the alternative is much worse.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by toolman.dustin View Post
    I'm too late to this party but Orbit makes this tool for removing 1/2" and 3/4" nipples that break off inside a fitting. I use this often when making sprinkler system repairs. Home Depot and Lowes carry it, or $5.00 on Amazon.

    Orbit Sprinkler System 1/2-Inch & 3/4-Inch Plastic Pipe Nipple Extractor 26076
    https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Sprinkl...21&sr=8-2&th=1

    Dustin
    I really wonder if this will work on the water heater tank as the check valve has some type of pipe sealant on it's threads, and this seems to cause the problem of it being difficult to remove and then breaking. The pipe nipples that break off in sprinkler system fittings are usually pretty loose and have no sealant.

    As mentioned earlier in the thread even an EZOut tool seems to just ream out the stuck plastic pipe nipple.
    2020 Reflection 273MK

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    I'm also late to this party, but dissimilar (galvanic) corrosion is a real concern. If the tank is steel, a brass fitting will not be much of a problem, but I have heard that newer water heaters are becoming aluminum.

    Brass and aluminum REALLY don't like each other and your first indication of a problem is you will never get the fitting apart.

    To be safe, I would use a stainless fitting between brass and aluminum. It is not ideal, but the alternative is much worse.


    This has been discussed on the forum in length, with several different solutions. If it is a concern Grainger sells aluminum pipe nipples.
    2020 Reflection 273MK

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    I'm also late to this party, but dissimilar (galvanic) corrosion is a real concern. If the tank is steel, a brass fitting will not be much of a problem, but I have heard that newer water heaters are becoming aluminum.

    Brass and aluminum REALLY don't like each other and your first indication of a problem is you will never get the fitting apart.

    To be safe, I would use a stainless fitting between brass and aluminum. It is not ideal, but the alternative is much worse.
    What would be ideal then? I'm wondering. After reading up on this, I feel like I had better pull the brass check valve out and do something different. Ideally, a 1/2" mpt x fpt pcv riser between the brass and aluminum. Maybe just tape and pipe dope on the brass threads.
    Alan and Paula
    2019 Reflection 303 RLS, 2004 Dodge 3500 5.9L
    Magnum 2k watt inverter-charger, 300 AH Battle Born battery bank, 560 watt solar power. 6K axles and disc brakes. Pepwave max transit cellular router.

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