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Thread: Water tank leak

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    Water tank leak

    I have a 303 rls with a 6 gallon dometic/ Atwood type hot water system. Model # GC6AA-10E. I discovered a leak outside, then traced it to the hot water outlet, (red hose) at the top of the tank. It was weeping water where it screwed into the metal fitting. Naturally it broke off flush when I tried to un thread it from the tank. The fitting that goes into the tank has a spring loaded check valve of some kind and is made of plastic. I am having difficulty identifying this part. Also the dilemma of removing the plastic threaded broken end from the metal fitting. Does anyone have experience with this issue?
    Alan and Paula
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    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    The spring loaded part you mentioned is a check valve. As for removing the broken plastic, are you saying the plastic part which remains is inside the metal fitting? If so, a large screw extractor could work. If you post a picture, it would be helpful to get other ideas, I'm going off of your description.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FT4NOW View Post
    The spring loaded part you mentioned is a check valve. As for removing the broken plastic, are you saying the plastic part which remains is inside the metal fitting? If so, a large screw extractor could work. If you post a picture, it would be helpful to get other ideas, I'm going off of your description.
    Yes. I have to extract the broken thread part still in the tank, have no idea of where to replace the check valve. Dometic site for parts dosen't show that. Hoping a metal replacement might be available.Click image for larger version. 

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    Alan and Paula
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerislandbrew View Post
    I have a 303 rls with a 6 gallon dometic/ Atwood type hot water system. Model # GC6AA-10E. I discovered a leak outside, then traced it to the hot water outlet, (red hose) at the top of the tank. It was weeping water where it screwed into the metal fitting. Naturally it broke off flush when I tried to un thread it from the tank. The fitting that goes into the tank has a spring loaded check valve of some kind and is made of plastic. I am having difficulty identifying this part. Also the dilemma of removing the plastic threaded broken end from the metal fitting. Does anyone have experience with this issue?
    Regarding the plastic fitting that’s broken off flush:
    I’ve had this several times on farm sprayers. You are in for a treat. An “easy-out” usually won’t work…it will just bite thru the plastic until it gets to the metal threads, and u don’t want to damage them. You can always try it first, tho…maybe you will get lucky. I will usually take a hacksaw blade and score the plastic on the inside in three places about 120deg apart, being careful not to go so deep u damage the metal threads. Take a small flat screwdriver and small hammer and work on breaking out the three pieces. There is usually a place you can spot to start. A heat gun may also help. Good luck.
    Last edited by LMagelitz; 01-23-2023 at 08:27 PM. Reason: Typo
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMagelitz View Post
    Regarding the plastic fitting that’s broken off flush:
    I’ve had this several times on farm sprayers. You are in for a treat. An “easy-out” usually won’t work…it will just bite thru the plastic until it gets to the metal threads, and u don’t want to damage them. You can always try it first, tho…maybe you will get lucky. I will usually take a hacksaw blade and score the plastic on the inside in three places about 120deg apart, being careful not to go so deep u damage the metal threads. Take a small flat screwdriver and small hammer and work on breaking out the three pieces. There is usually a place you can spot to start. A heat gun may also help. Good luck.
    Hoping I get lucky. I would like to do this without pulling the whole heater. It is tight quarters to get at it now. I also realized that the check valve and fitting for hot and cold are not part of the heaters list of parts. I found that stuff while looking online. Hopefully, I can get a check valve at the local hardware store. Not thrilled to fix stuff, but everytime I do, I learn something new.
    Alan and Paula
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    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    ​Have you contacted Dometic, their customer service is pretty good. They may have the part you need as well as advice on repair.
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    The check valve should be available from Grand Design. The greater problem I see is removing the broken plastic from the water heater without the pieces dropping into the tank. IMO a large flat blade screwdriver engaging small slots you create 180° in the plastic remnant of the fitting is how I’d start. I agree the easy out may fail as it will work more like a reamer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
    The check valve should be available from Grand Design. The greater problem I see is removing the broken plastic from the water heater without the pieces dropping into the tank. IMO a large flat blade screwdriver engaging small slots you create 180° in the plastic remnant of the fitting is how I’d start. I agree the easy out may fail as it will work more like a reamer.
    I've heard that the reason a plastic check valve or insert is used, instead of brass, Is to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion to the aluminum tank. However, it seems to me that this will happen again with plastic parts. I may go with brass anyway and keep an eye on it. I probably won't find the plastic part locally anyway, and as were full timers for the winter, I don't want to be without hot water for a week waiting on a part to be sent. Makes me miss the 2nd day delivery Amazon used to have..
    Alan and Paula
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    Magnum 2k watt inverter-charger, 300 AH Battle Born battery bank, 560 watt solar power. 6K axles and disc brakes. Pepwave max transit cellular router.

  9. #9
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    I agree. When the time comes, I plan to go with brass and plenty of pipe thread tape to help with the corrosion. I have the brass valve in my spare pets kit.
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    I'm really interested in this because I have a brass check valve that I need to install. I've seen several post where the OEM plastic valve breaks like the OP mentions here, so I want to be very careful in the removal.

    For those that have successfully got it out on the first try without breaking it, what's the secret? On my water heater it looks as if a sealant such as pipe dope compound was used on the threads. Is there a possibility that using a heat gun to slightly warm the area on the tank around the threads might help before attempting to remove?
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