What's your SWAG for standard brake & bearing maintenance?

[JM0397]

Our rig is 2 years old, has about 8000 miles on it so still getting broken in.
I've never messed with bearing & break service, so I think I'll hire this first time out and see if they'll let me observe the work.
There's a very highly rated trailer sales & service business in my area, I think I'll start with them.

What do you think a reasonable cost is for standard preventative maintenance (drum) brake & (repack) bearing service, assuming all is well and nothing needs replaced?

While I'm looking at costs, I don't think we need an axle upgrade, but what's the parts & install cost (hired out, of course - not doing it myself) for upgrading to disk breaks and maybe wet bolts & upgraded suspension?

Thanks!

[FT4NOW]

If you're looking to outsource the work, consider a mobile tech or a trailer shop, but I'd stay away from RV specific service centers.

I'm sure a mobile tech would allow you to watch, not sure on a shop. Some shops have liability reasons they don't allow customers in the bay area.

For brakes, there are numerous options like Performance Trailer Brakes (I think that's the name) that will come to your location and install the brakes.

For suspension upgrades, I'd again consult a mobile tech or trailer shop, but stay away from RV specific places.

[Hoopy Frood]

I don't think bearing re-greasing and such should run more than $400, give or take a few bucks. Provided there are no surprises.

Installation of disc brakes, depends a bit on what equipment you opt for, but I would think $4,000-$6,000 would cover it. And another few hundred for wet bolts, and the upgraded suspension would depend entirely on what you're considering. From $800 or so for EZ-Flex equalizer installation to around $4,000-$6,000 for Morryde Independent Suspension.

I echo the suggestion to stay away from RV dealerships.

[geotex1]

Shop labor is this area is $125/hr. Figure an hour per for a pro, plus seals, grease, and cleaning and you should be around $600.

Disc brakes conversion is way up in price because the cast components are made overseas. The kits are about $3200 for double axle right now. Installation from the mobiles about $1200. Catch a rally discount and install and save a couple hundred. I think kit price might come back down later in the year as availability increases and demand slows.

[Second Chance]

Shop labor is this area is $125/hr. Figure an hour per for a pro, plus seals, grease, and cleaning and you should be around $600.

This is what I paid our favorite mobile tech in NM the last two times we had bearing service done. He takes the hubs back to his shop at his house where he has a parts washer and a clean environment to do everything.

Rob

[Buckskin]

Repacking wheel bearings is easy and be done in few hours.
Never ever use EZ-Lube grease zerks on end of axles are your asking for major trouble. Last camping trip guy had to replace complete axle assembly because he used these grease zerks and never repacked his wheel bearings.
Check out several YouTube videos on how to do it; everyone has their own method and you want to use best methods from several videos. The most critical part is tightening the castle nut; too tight is worst than too loose - bearings and races need grease. Too tight and you squeeze all grease out from between bearing and race. My method is to use channel locks to slightly tighen castle nut and spin drum about dozen times to make sure everything is seated correctly. I then backoff castle nut and very very slightly retighten with fingers. Never had problem with excessive wear or burning bearing with this method. Make sure your castle nut retainer cage is properly install; replace if damaged. Always install new seals and put grease on lips of seals and very light coat on spindle - you don't want to burn your seals and they will burn quickly without some greases. Make sure your new seals have wear spring on backside of lip, I always put a little grease around spring to help with keeping lip of seal lubricated. Cheap seals may not have wear spring; as seal wears the spring keeps lip of seal pressed against spindle.
Things you need to have before you begin:
1. Hand Bearing Grease Packer and proper grease. I use Lucas Xtra, but there are several good greases out there.
2. Replacement seals and seal puller helps. Both available at Amazon
3. Blue shop towels to clean off old grease and clean brake drum. Spray brake cleaner works good to clean drum. Just wipe everything down and make sure drums are clean and no grease on them.
4. Normal mechanics tools that most people already have. Need plastic/rubber hammer to install new seals or use wooden block to aid with installation. Slightly tap seal all around until it is flush with drum.
Again watch several YouTube videos and you will become an expert. I had always rather do something myself if I can rather than paying someone - that way you know it's done correctly. Too many times shops stress speed rather than quality.

[huntindog]

Repacking wheel bearings is easy and be done in few hours.
Never ever use EZ-Lube grease zerks on end of axles are your asking for major trouble. Last camping trip guy had to replace complete axle assembly because he used these grease zerks and never repacked his wheel bearings.
Check out several YouTube videos on how to do it; everyone has their own method and you want to use best methods from several videos. The most critical part is tightening the castle nut; too tight is worst than too loose - bearings and races need grease. Too tight and you squeeze all grease out from between bearing and race. My method is to use channel locks to slightly tighen castle nut and spin drum about dozen times to make sure everything is seated correctly. I then backoff castle nut and very very slightly retighten with fingers. Never had problem with excessive wear or burning bearing with this method. Make sure your castle nut retainer cage is properly install; replace if damaged. Always install new seals and put grease on lips of seals and very light coat on spindle - you don't want to burn your seals and they will burn quickly without some greases. Make sure your new seals have wear spring on backside of lip, I always put a little grease around spring to help with keeping lip of seal lubricated. Cheap seals may not have wear spring; as seal wears the spring keeps lip of seal pressed against spindle.
Things you need to have before you begin:
1. Hand Bearing Grease Packer and proper grease. I use Lucas Xtra, but there are several good greases out there.
2. Replacement seals and seal puller helps. Both available at Amazon
3. Blue shop towels to clean off old grease and clean brake drum. Spray brake cleaner works good to clean drum. Just wipe everything down and make sure drums are clean and no grease on them.
4. Normal mechanics tools that most people already have. Need plastic/rubber hammer to install new seals or use wooden block to aid with installation. Slightly tap seal all around until it is flush with drum.
Again watch several YouTube videos and you will become an expert. I had always rather do something myself if I can rather than paying someone - that way you know it's done correctly. Too many times shops stress speed rather than quality.

You tube is Ok to watch but, it is only as good as the you tuber. Just because they make a video, doesn't mean they are correct. Read the manufacturers manual for the proper way to set bearings for YOUR axle. Bearing adjustment is often referred to as Preload... I hate that term as a properly adjusted bearing does NOT have preload. It should have some clearance! Tapered bearings are designed to run at zero clearance. Since parts expand as they warm up to running temp, they must not be set to zero cold. They should have the specified clearance cold in order to have zero when warmed up. One can use a dial indicator to set the clearance, but as most people do not have this tool (though it is handy to have for many things) if you follow the manfacturers instructions precisly you will end up with the proper adjustment.

And of course it is a bad idea to use the gease zerk on the axle.
there are only 2 catagories of people who use the zerks, Those that have already greased their brakes, and those that will.
Note, if one has disc brakes, it is not as much of a problem, as one can see the seal without taking the hub apart.

[Buckskin]

I worked in manufactoring and know all about preload. Must people don't have correct tools or instructments to set preload. Most wouldn't know how to use equipment to determine preload. The why I described is what works for me and never had issue. Not many old mechanics still living that had to repacked bearings on vehicles regularly had equipment to set preload. Repacking wheel bearings has been done a very long time and very few times equipment was used to set preload; it was the skill of mechanic, farmer, person doing the job.
Just wondering how many shops out there check preload when repacking bearings; few times I seen it done they did it by feel and their skill.

[huntindog]

I worked in manufactoring and know all about preload. Must people don't have correct tools or instructments to set preload. Most wouldn't know how to use equipment to determine preload. The why I described is what works for me and never had issue. Not many old mechanics still living that had to repacked bearings on vehicles regularly had equipment to set preload. Repacking wheel bearings has been done a very long time and very few times equipment was used to set preload; it was the skill of mechanic, farmer, person doing the job.
Just wondering how many shops out there check preload when repacking bearings; few times I seen it done they did it by feel and their skill.

Agreed. I have seen some horrible you tubes though, so I was just pointing out, that the two things you can trust are the procedure the manufacturer has in their manual, or a dial cailiper , which can be had suprisingly cheap.

[jleonard]

You can get any of that work done at many local independent auto repair shops as long as they have space to work outside.
My son has a shop in CT and he does that kind of work often.