Getting started with solar and lithium

**Redapple63** · 02-18-2023, 11:04 PM

Originally Posted by kb0zke

Question: when I get this, should I disconnect all three black cables from the second battery and reconnect them to the one end of the shunt, with the other end connected to the second battery? Or would I leave the negative cable from the first battery connected where it is, and only connect the other two cables to the other side of the shunt?

My guess is that the instructions will tell me how to connect, but at the price of what's involved (not to mention that we live in this trailer) I don't want to destroy things.

Keep the cables connecting the two batteries together and only connect the cable that goes to ground to the shunt.

Picture attached

Click image for larger version.

Name: IMG_6591.jpg
Views: 72
Size: 77.4 KB
ID: 44983

Bill

**SolarPoweredRV** · 02-19-2023, 01:33 AM

Originally Posted by Redapple63

Keep the cables connecting the two batteries together and only connect the cable that goes to ground to the shunt.

Picture attached

Bill

This is the correct way to wire a shunt.

**SolarPoweredRV** · 02-20-2023, 01:29 AM

Originally Posted by kb0zke

4. What else should I know that I don't know I need to know?

You need to know if your batteries have Cold Temperature Charging protection. Lithium batteries (LiFePo4) can not be charged if the internal battery temperature is below 32 degrees, the batteries can still be used in cold temperatures, they just can't be charged. Check the battery documentation to ensure your batteries have cold temp protection.

**oregonchipmunk** · 02-23-2023, 09:09 PM

For your solar installers, suggest AM Solar in Springfield, Oregon, and OffTheGridRVs in Quartzsite

**kb0zke** · 03-22-2023, 06:39 PM

While searching for a (possibly nonexistent) inverter today, I found where the batteries connect to the coach. Close to the batteries and easily accessible, it is also completely exposed to weather. There is a shunt already there, and it looks like everything is connected as the diagrams posted earlier say. To me, it looks like I already have what was described, although I suspect that the quality of the EOM stuff isn't up to that of the replacement items. It also looks to me like it ought to be fairly easy to make the switch to the good stuff.

BTW, while poking around I also discovered that the solar controller was set to AGM batteries rather than lithium. I switched it and it immediately started charging the batteries.

**Redapple63** · 03-22-2023, 07:42 PM

I agree that the bus bar used on these rigs is far from “robust” since we have the same rig just a couple of years apart, I am going to attach the bus bar from mine. Kind of weird the way they did it. They send the hot ware from the batteries directly to the bus bar to power a bunch of stuff like the slides, emergency brakes, regular brakes,stabilizer jacks and tongue jack. It then loops back to the cutoff switch, then to the 12v distribution and converter. And yes, fully exposed to the weather.

Click image for larger version.

Name: IMG_6551.jpg
Views: 17
Size: 95.8 KB
ID: 45507

Bill

**kb0zke** · 03-23-2023, 02:29 PM

Our Foretravel had a similar "bright" idea. They thought that the isolator should be mounted behind the rear duals. Keep in mind that this was a coach that sold for $350,000 in 1993. Many of us moved that isolator to a few feet away, but out of the weather. That location was under the bed. Remember that the Foretravel is a diesel pusher, so the bed lifts up for access to the engine, from whence comes all power.

I wonder how hard it would be to move all of that stuff to inside the pass-through bay. I'd want to put it in some sort of box so that nothing touches something it shouldn't, but that shouldn't be too hard to find.

**Redapple63** · 03-24-2023, 10:53 PM

Originally Posted by kb0zke

Our Foretravel had a similar "bright" idea. They thought that the isolator should be mounted behind the rear duals. Keep in mind that this was a coach that sold for $350,000 in 1993. Many of us moved that isolator to a few feet away, but out of the weather. That location was under the bed. Remember that the Foretravel is a diesel pusher, so the bed lifts up for access to the engine, from whence comes all power.

I wonder how hard it would be to move all of that stuff to inside the pass-through bay. I'd want to put it in some sort of box so that nothing touches something it shouldn't, but that shouldn't be too hard to find.

I don’t think it would be that hard. Waterproof junction box and the relays inside. Just some wire and energy.

Bill

**SolarPoweredRV** · 03-25-2023, 12:33 AM

Originally Posted by Redapple63

I don’t think it would be that hard. Waterproof junction box and the relays inside. Just some wire and energy.

Bill

If I were to tackle the job, I would replace all the auto reset breakers and probably replace the copper bus bar at the same time. If I am going to do the work, I am going to improve it at the same time.

**USA in a Chevrolet** · 05-07-2023, 06:17 PM

I think the best solar installer is Solar Energy Systems in Nappanee Indiana. They are a huge residential dealer with a big RV solar department. I had 12 panels, 8 lithium batteries & Victron inverter & accessories installed. They do a lot of Class A coaches as well as fifth wheels there. My install was 2 years ago & I’ve had zero issues. Their tech guy Jason is always available to answer your questions. They will ask you to stay a couple of AUS after the install to try to break their equipment!