My Solitude Suspension Rebuild

[Overtaxed]

If you bias with the 4K springs roadside and 3.5K curbside, it'll simply level the coach side-to-side. If you put 4K at all 4 points, it will raise things less than 1/2".

I actually got a little more than 1" when I put in the 4K springs. However, that said, my existing springs were as flat as a butter knife. I suspect if I had springs that weren't shaped like a W prior to install, it would have been more like the 1/2" that Geo mentioned.

Importantly, the entire rig is still under 13'6". I wanted/needed more height because of clearance issues on my stupid high F450; so it was a bonus to me to go up a little. Between that and the /85 tires (vs /80), I am JUST under 13'6" (as measured hooked up at a truck stop).

[Hoopy Frood]

"One thing that just come to my mind, when I put on the 7 leaf 4000# springs, how much is it going to raise the RV? It's level now. Well maybe, maybe not that much. Will I have to adjust my pin box or Companion hitch to get her back level?"

When I changed our Momentum springs to 7-leaf 4,000 lb from the 6-leaf 3,500 lb. springs, I saw no difference, and the trailer is still level behind the truck.

[orbsah]

Now I'm not going to go with IS so this post has no correlation to Solitudes with Independent Suspensions.

Thanks for the info - very helpful. Sorry, I don’t mean to go off-topic but I’m curious if you considered the Road Master slipper system (or why not?). Kinda comparable cost-wise and relatively simple install. A friend with a 310 just had that done and he really likes it so far.

[traveldawg]

@Steven@147: you're quite welcome! Seeing some of your additional thoughts here, I have some more for consideration. V-Clips, no need to buy. Your welder can make them right up out of bar stock. I don't run them because I boxed and gusseted my hangers after our suspension failure. I also run X-factors at all 3 points. You probably find it strange I have these versus building them myself, but I got a deal on them that I couldn't meet with the cost of steel, welding supplies, primer, paint, hardware and definitely my time. Glad I did too because I have had to remove them to repair the Ground Control 3 rear sensor and then for rebuilding the through-frame slide for the kitchen after it tore out! The split design of the X-factors made it easy. Point being, if you are considering X-factors, the hangers will need custom sized V-clips to not interfere with the X-factor installation.

One of the biggest improvements I made outside of the strengthening and better parts was to add the Roadmaster shock kit. These 5ers should leave the factory with them!! The kit is HEAVILY built! The axle brackets are an easy install, and do require longer U-bolts. The frame brackets are tougher, but doable with patience, good right-angle drill and extra long bit. What I personally did was use my welding clamps to get everything positioned, drilled and bolted just one corner of each, and then welded the brackets. If you do want to add the kit, great time to do so! One of the GD SRT team liked mine so much he put them on his! If you go this route and drill, do not use the thread-cutting hardware provided with the thin flange on the Lippert frame. Get the same diameter in Grade 5 bolts with washers and lock nuts.

Let me know if you need any other parts info.

2 things...
1. I highly recommend and second the vote for the X-factors on all 3 hanging points. I think if I had done this rather just on the center then my frame would not have cracked like it did.
2. Why not go withe the MorRyde SRE4000 and get the extra horizontal movement?

[powerscol]

Thought I would add our weight info to go along with talk about replacing our springs and suspension components after 3 years. Our weight really hasn't changed that much over time.

Solitude 3350RL Actual
Left Front 3,200
Right Front 2,700
Front Axle Left to Right Variance 500
Front Axle 5,900
Front Axle Tire Pressures 105
Left Rear 3,300
Right Rear 2,750
Rear Axle Left to Right Variance 550
Rear Axle 6,050
Rear Axle Tire Pressures psi 105
RV Front Axle to Rear Axle Variance 150
Trailer Weight 11,950
Trailer Pin Weight 3,550
Trailer Total Weight 15,500
Fresh Water Tank 1/3 Full

Steve
I just happened upon this thread. Based on your weights above you are tad nose high - slightly more weight on the rear. It wold be grate to see new weights once your done. I doubt you will need to make any hitch adjustments, From what I read here you made some wise choices. Its good that you sent your axle tage data to Dexter to get you build information

I am embarking on a similar task, but replacing everything. Info on the GD site. Dexter uses the same 3" dia tube from my light Reflection 4400lb axles up to the 8K. They might increase the wall thickness from my LW 0.16" thickens to standard MED wall .25" thickness. A heavy wall 5/16" is available so folks know.

Also to pass on information a HW 3.5" tube 0.5 thickness is available in the 6K to 8k hub configurations. Its called a 7K tube de-rated to 6k due to the hub I am using. I am upgrading from my 4400lb axle to a 6K 3.5" tube axle with 6k hub with my stock 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern. I am also going from the 2200lb springs to a 6 leaf 3500 lb. This in all should lift my trailer about 1" lift which I need to level out for my new F350.

If I may also add, Dexter does sell direct through thier distributors. They are listed on thier web page. However I had issues getting the correct information I needed and varying pricing. They were just not up to date on what was available. I talked to several. Thankfully thier warrantee department was very helpful in getting me the correct information. I ended up using Iron Bear out of Denver to order through. They had better pricing as they are a Dexter dealer.

Looking forward to your update on the change over. If possible please post pictures of your how too, or are you having someone do it.

Safe travels

[geotex1]

Thanks for the info - very helpful. Sorry, I don’t mean to go off-topic but I’m curious if you considered the Road Master slipper system (or why not?). Kinda comparable cost-wise and relatively simple install. A friend with a 310 just had that done and he really likes it so far.

For me, the decision was pretty easy. Slippers do not distribute load between the axles as effectively and have less articulation and dampening limited to shocks. It's nothing new or my opinion, but typical cons for them that the various makers point out when doing pros/cons of their various suspensions. I have also personally had slippers on campers and various trailers I've owned and am not a fan, especially when they've worn in.
Don't get me wrong, plenty of cons with double-eye too. However, the double-eye at least more opportunity to improve it and parts available anywhere in N.America.

[Steven@147]

Thanks for the info - very helpful. Sorry, I don’t mean to go off-topic but I’m curious if you considered the Road Master slipper system (or why not?). Kinda comparable cost-wise and relatively simple install. A friend with a 310 just had that done and he really likes it so far.

I don't know anything about the slipper spring system. I have never researched it for any perceived improvement over what we have now. I had enough time just researching what I have now and identifying the parts I need, let alone a different type of spring system. If I stopped to think about it I guess I would say that the suspension we have now has performed well over the 3 years and 18K miles we have traveled so far on all types of roads, on the flat lands and in the mountains. The rig pulls great, It's just wearing out.

But then again if I were to stop and think about it, if I were go to a different type suspension, I would just pony up the big money and go with the independent suspension and get rid of the hangers and springs all together. I don't know how much longer it might last before it needs rebuilt, none of the traveling suspension systems are maintenance free.

[Steven@147]

2 things...
1. I highly recommend and second the vote for the X-factors on all 3 hanging points. I think if I had done this rather just on the center then my frame would not have cracked like it did.
2. Why not go withe the MorRyde SRE4000 and get the extra horizontal movement?

I'll think about the X-factors.
I have not looked at the SRE-4000, know nothing about it. The first question that came to my mind is, why would I want extra horizontal movement? Maybe extra vertical movement, but then again I know nothing about the 4000's.

I had installed the CRE-3000 on our Imagine and they still looked great when we traded it in for the Solitude, and the ride and towing was greatly improved. Now granted our Imagine was a lot smaller and lighter and had rigid equalizers to start with before I changed to the CRE-3000, that was a big change and difference. The EquaFlex on our Solitude is basically the same as the CRE-3000. I just think the MORryde product is better than the Lippert.

I'll look into the SRE-4000's to see what it offers over the CRE's. Just a quick google search on the SRE-4000 mentions it comes with the X-factor, and that is what you recommend looking into so I'm guessing that's the major difference using the SRE's instead of the CRE's?

[Steven@147]

Steve


Looking forward to your update on the change over. If possible please post pictures of your how too, or are you having someone do it.

Safe travels

Well no, I'm going to try and do it myself, not that big of a deal normally, just time consuming, BUT I don't have my shop, access to all my old tools and all the time in the world to get-er-done. We still got to live in it. By the time I get it done I'll probably be so crippled up I wont be able to walk!!

To be honest I haven't totally planned out the installation yet. I'm thinking to try to use the GC-3 electric leveling system to raise the side I'm working on, just enough for tires to clear the ground. I can control each rear and front jack separately from the controller, but the mid jacks I can not control. I'll probably close the slide on the side I am working on at the time. Less strain on that slide and the front/rear leveling jacks. Then I'll use some boards and brace the GC-3 mid jack (6 way leveling) so I don't tweak the RV frame. I've never tried this before so I don't know how it will work.
I kept my large conventional jack stands from my shop, will placed under the front mid drop frame and one under the rear frame for safety. Then I plan to use two PowerBuilt 3 ton jack/stands under the axles near the springs. I gotta get some more boards for cribbing. Probably go to a lumber yard and get a 2x12 and cut it up. I'll take plenty of pics and video.

Weights - On our first weigh in 10/2019, the front to rear axle variance was much higher. Then I installed the MORryde pin box and adjusted the Companion to help level and get the axle variance to where it is now on our second weigh in 10/2020. Both done at the Escapee's SmartWeigh. Now at the second weigh in they told me I was right at 13.6 feet height, that was to the top of the front AC unit.

[powerscol]

Well no, I'm going to try and do it myself, not that big of a deal normally, just time consuming, BUT I don't have my shop, access to all my old tools and all the time in the world to get-er-done. We still got to live in it. By the time I get it done I'll probably be so crippled up I wont be able to walk!!

To be honest I haven't totally planned out the installation yet. I'm thinking to try to use the GC-3 electric leveling system to raise the side I'm working on, just enough for tires to clear the ground. I can control each rear and front jack separately from the controller, but the mid jacks I can not control. I'll probably close the slide on the side I am working on at the time. Less strain on that slide and the front/rear leveling jacks. Then I'll use some boards and brace the GC-3 mid jack (6 way leveling) so I don't tweak the RV frame. I've never tried this before so I don't know how it will work.
I kept my large conventional jack stands from my shop, will placed under the front mid drop frame and one under the rear frame for safety. Then I plan to use two PowerBuilt 3 ton jack/stands under the axles near the springs. I gotta get some more boards for cribbing. Probably go to a lumber yard and get a 2x12 and cut it up. I'll take plenty of pics and video.

Weights - On our first weigh in 10/2019, the front to rear axle variance was much higher. Then I installed the MORryde pin box and adjusted the Companion to help level and get the axle variance to where it is now on our second weigh in 10/2020. Both done at the Escapee's SmartWeigh. Now at the second weigh in they told me I was right at 13.6 feet height, that was to the top of the front AC unit.

I am wishing you the best and stay safe. I will be doing my axle replacement here in a month or so, so depending on who gets there first maybe we can learn together. I am building cribbing out of 2x6 material stacked and screwed into blocks and will be supporting the frame with it. Not a fan of point loads like jack stands create.