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Thread: Suspension work

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    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Suspension work

    Since there has recently been a long thread on spring bushings, I was looking for ideas on making the job of inspecting or changing the bushings easier.

    The last time I did it I used a stack of 2X6's and floor jacks to support the frame. For safety, I only removed one wheel at a time. After getting the frame supported I lowered the trailer's leveling jacks for additional support. To keep the spring eye in approximately the same place I cut a piece of 2X4 and wedged it between the 2 axles. A floor jack was then used to control the axle up and down. I'm considering getting a small air powered bottle jack for this purpose as I feel it would be easier to control.

    I know this is not a "rocket science" job, but I'd appreciate any tips on improving the process.
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    Long Hauler
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    If your trailer has hydraulic levelers I would use those to lift the trailer. Jack stands "just in case" and jacks to support the axles and/or springs.
    Howard and Peggy
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    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Here's how I work on all coaches eith powered stabilizers with the benefit that I have a nearly 70 foot patch of driveway that's level. Autolevel the coach and then manually lift the front and position heavy jack stands under the front and lower till secure. Repeat for the back. If it's a 6 point system, I tap hardwood wedges under the mid jacks. I break all the lugnuts loose and use an aluminum floor jack to lift the axle ends whatever I need to remove the tires. I swap the pad on the jack for a cradle I made that fits the axle bearing at 3rd points and not center of the camber. Lift slightly. I tend to work equalizer side first and fixed hanger after the equalizer is reassembled. If I'm working the center mount for the equalizer, I just raise one axle a bit and set it on short jack stands. This is just for servicing bushings. If I'm doing more, I'll run the coach wheels up on ramps that put it up 5" and same routine except blocks under the jacks. My stands have plenty of height to them. I'll drop the axles onto furniture dollies and roll them right out and then get to work on the repairs or mods.
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    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    I am going to try and use both of these suggestions when I do ours, 2x4 and levelers. I've done the bushing dance twice, once on our Imagine and once on our Solitude. R&R the equalizer first, Then the front or rear U frame bracket spring bushing, biggest issue I have had, when I drop the axle so that the rear or front leaf spring eye is clear of the U bracket, then once the bushing is replaced, raising the axle, the spring eye is always just a tad out of center with the hole in the U bracket to get the bolt back in. Can be frustrating.
    I think the 2x4 strapped between the axles would keep the axle your working on from moving forward or aft on the equalizer so that the holes line back up to get the bolt in on the U frame bracket.

    When I've done them I've always done one side at a time with the opposite side of the RV tires still touching the ground. Thing is you have to lift the side your working on just high enough so that when you lower the axle the rear or front leaf spring eye will clear the bottom of the U frame bracket to change the bushing.
    Last edited by Steven@147; 03-11-2023 at 09:53 AM.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
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    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    I think the 2x4 strapped between the axles would keep the axle your working on from moving forward or aft on the equalizer so that the holes line back up to get the bolt in on the U frame bracket.
    Correct. I cut the 2X4 the exact dimension of the space between the axles. I then cut 2 pieces of 2X2 and mounted each on top ends of the 2X4, overhanging the axle to hold the 2X4 in place. This assembly held the springs eyes very close to the hole in the spring hangers (I think this is what you are referring to as U frames).
    Last edited by dryfly; 03-11-2023 at 10:37 AM.
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    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    For me, the hardest part of replacing bushings was always getting the old bushing out. I had a friend machine a punch that allowed placing the new bushing on the "punch" and hammering on it to force the old one out as the new one went in. The eyes of the springs never seem perfectly round to me, so every bit of help counts getting the old bushings out.
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    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    For me, the hardest part of replacing bushings was always getting the old bushing out. I had a friend machine a punch that allowed placing the new bushing on the "punch" and hammering on it to force the old one out as the new one went in. The eyes of the springs never seem perfectly round to me, so every bit of help counts getting the old bushings out.
    I"t's almost like a guy needs a deep socket the size of the eye, use and old extension and tap forcing the old bushing out, if the socket gets stuck, insert the extension into the socket backwards and tap it out of the eye. Of course a new bushing on a bolt, then set into the eye, tap on the bolt head, old bushing comes out as the new one goes in. But then on the two coaches I have done the bushings were never that tight in the eye anyway.
    I watched on you tube, a guy coat a new bushing with permatex to sort of glue it into the spring eye. That could be a nightmare to get the old bushing out and all the crap out of the eye unless a good reaming with a cone wire brush on a drill.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
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    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    I"t's almost like a guy needs a deep socket the size of the eye, use and old extension and tap forcing the old bushing out, if the socket gets stuck, insert the extension into the socket backwards and tap it out of the eye. Of course a new bushing on a bolt, then set into the eye, tap on the bolt head, old bushing comes out as the new one goes in. But then on the two coaches I have done the bushings were never that tight in the eye anyway.
    I watched on you tube, a guy coat a new bushing with permatex to sort of glue it into the spring eye. That could be a nightmare to get the old bushing out and all the crap out of the eye unless a good reaming with a cone wire brush on a drill.
    i will add; take one good, preferably used bolt and grind/file the serrations smooth, and use that bolt to install the bushings into the spring. using a bolt with intact serrations will damage the bushings
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