Anyone know about this lithium battery brand?

[Soundsailor]

I'm a noob when it comes to solar and lithium. I live in FL so it very rarely get below freezing. We don't do "winter" camping in north and I plan to install the battery inside the camper under the Murphy bed. (If I can figure out how to run the wires there) I only have a positive and negative lead on my wet battery now so I assume I just need to reroute them into the camper and hook up the new battery. I have a lithium compatible Furrion 25A MTTP charger and my converter has the lithium compatible charger built in. Am I missing something?
Thanks for any guidance

Sounds like your thinking is sound @FL-Guy, if the battery is inside and you'll be running the furnace if it ever does get cold there in FL, then you should be fine. It sounds like your charging equipment should be compatible also.

[xrated]

I'm a noob when it comes to solar and lithium. I live in FL so it very rarely get below freezing. We don't do "winter" camping in north and I plan to install the battery inside the camper under the Murphy bed. (If I can figure out how to run the wires there) I only have a positive and negative lead on my wet battery now so I assume I just need to reroute them into the camper and hook up the new battery. I have a lithium compatible Furrion 25A MTTP charger and my converter has the lithium compatible charger built in. Am I missing something?
Thanks for any guidance

The only other thing I would add, as far as installing an LFP battery is that you may need to change the wires/cables that go from the Converter/Charger to the battery. LFP batteries will usually charge at a higher amperage than Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) batteries, and to get the fastest charge to the battery will somewhat depend on the cable size. The smaller the wire/cables, the more internal resistance the wire has.....so larger wires or cables will have a lower resistance when compared to smaller wires the same length. LFP batteries normally have a much lower internal resistance also, which will allow for more charging current to the battery. Of course that amount of charge current is also affected by the ability of the charger and what it is capable of producing. Hope this helps.

[powerscol]

You also need a different charger or set your charger to Lithium if it is capable. Std lead acid battery chargers will only charge the lithium to about 75-80%

Also if you have a Victrom Multiplus and or Cerbo you can attach temperature probes and control the charging based on temperature, and install and control heating pads (cerbo). Please dont ask for details - I have not done it as I don't have Lithiums yet. Lots of how to threads on it and information is available in the Victron manual

When I do, it will be SOK or Ampere time - now Li Time. BTW the BMS output is critical if you running and inverter. Should be capable of 100A min - more is better. I want at least 150A to 200A each as I need roughly 400A of capacity. So I need at least 2-200A in parallel

[SolarPoweredRV]

I'm a noob when it comes to solar and lithium. I live in FL so it very rarely get below freezing. We don't do "winter" camping in north and I plan to install the battery inside the camper under the Murphy bed. (If I can figure out how to run the wires there) I only have a positive and negative lead on my wet battery now so I assume I just need to reroute them into the camper and hook up the new battery. I have a lithium compatible Furrion 25A MTTP charger and my converter has the lithium compatible charger built in. Am I missing something?
Thanks for any guidance

Even though we live in FL, it still can get below freezing. With having Solar charging available you have to be sure your Solar can not begin to charge your batteries before they have warmed up (internally) enough to accept the charge (> than 0 degrees F).

Because we camp throughout the winter we do not winterize the camper, consequently, when our camper is in storage, we constantly monitor the weather for freezing nights and will turn on the furnace any time temps are expected to get below 35 degrees. This protects our batteries because they are located inside the heated hold.

This being said, my battery installation has thermal protection for both high and low temperature conditions. I wouldn't want to miss a weather report and be forced to replace my batteries.

PS: I leave the Solar system on when my camper is in storage.

[FL-Guy]

Even though we live in FL, it still can get below freezing. With having Solar charging available you have to be sure your Solar can not begin to charge your batteries before they have warmed up (internally) enough to accept the charge (> than 0 degrees F).

Because we camp throughout the winter we do not winterize the camper, consequently, when our camper is in storage, we constantly monitor the weather for freezing nights and will turn on the furnace any time temps are expected to get below 35 degrees. This protects our batteries because they are located inside the heated hold.

This being said, my battery installation has thermal protection for both high and low temperature conditions. I wouldn't want to miss a weather report and be forced to replace my batteries.

PS: I leave the Solar system on when my camper is in storage.

Thanks. Yes, we do occasionally get freezing nights here in the Tampa Bay area. My RV is stored under cover in an RV port so I don't think the solar would do anything as far as charging under there. I do leave the RV hooked up to 20A shore power mainly to keep the current lead acid battery charged and to keep a dehumidifier running, especially in the summer. I suppose I could put a Zigbee temperature sensor in the camper and have my home automation hub (Hubitat) turn on a space heater if the temp gets too cold inside the camper.
The converter that came with our 2023 Imagine 17MKE is the newer WF8735 AD GE so it is solar capable. We have a 165W Furrion solar panel with a 25A Furrion MTTP solar charger, also lithium capable. Right now we mainly camp at places with electric hookup and my truck has a built in 7200W generator with 30A 220V inverter in case we just overnight without electric. We have the 12V fridge that apparently sucks down power so I thought the 200Ah battery would be nice to have so I wouldn't need to keep the truck on all night if we dry camp overnight.
Will need to slowly convince the wife it's ok to be without water and electric hookup for a few days. (hard sell)

[SolarPoweredRV]

Thanks. Yes, we do occasionally get freezing nights here in the Tampa Bay area. My RV is stored under cover in an RV port so I don't think the solar would do anything as far as charging under there. I do leave the RV hooked up to 20A shore power mainly to keep the current lead acid battery charged and to keep a dehumidifier running, especially in the summer. I suppose I could put a Zigbee temperature sensor in the camper and have my home automation hub (Hubitat) turn on a space heater if the temp gets too cold inside the camper.
The converter that came with our 2023 Imagine 17MKE is the newer WF8735 AD GE so it is solar capable. We have a 165W Furrion solar panel with a 25A Furrion MTTP solar charger, also lithium capable. Right now we mainly camp at places with electric hookup and my truck has a built in 7200W generator with 30A 220V inverter in case we just overnight without electric. We have the 12V fridge that apparently sucks down power so I thought the 200Ah battery would be nice to have so I wouldn't need to keep the truck on all night if we dry camp overnight.
Will need to slowly convince the wife it's ok to be without water and electric hookup for a few days. (hard sell)

Even under cover your Solar could still generate energy from the ambient light, especially if the cover faces East and the sun fills the cover as it is rising.

You want to be careful with the space heater because the heat might not penetrate where you have the batteries (i.e.: in my 5th wheel, the batteries are in the belly and having a space heater in the living space won't keep the belly from freezing). I find it easy to simply set the furnace to a low temp whenever we are getting cold weather (note: my furnace heats the basement area where I have the batteries).

It sounds like, in your case, you could simply disconnect the batteries for Winter storage and not worry about charging the batteries in freezing temps. I would caution you to ensure that the batteries are completely disconnected at the battery, versus, using the OEM battery disconnect switch. The OEM disconnect keeps a few things powered up when it is in the off position, so, install your own disconnect switch. As far as keeping the dehumidifier running and the lights inside the coach operating, your 20 amp 120v connection will continue to power the dehumidifier and the Converter will provide 12v power for the lights.

Installing a 200ah Lithium battery should get you through an overnight even with a 12v fridge. As far as having running water, we always keep water in our fresh tank, even in storage, so we can stop wherever we like and use the bathroom, or have lunch and clean the dishes, or whatever. Note: we always drink bottled water when we are camping so drinking from the tanks is not a concern.

With water onboard and your lights and fridge covered, you should be all set for a night or two of boondocking. The only thing you are missing is 120v and how much 120v appliances do you really need? Obviously, if it is hot, you need A/C, this is why we camp a lot in the Winter. You might also need 120v for your morning coffee, however, there are plenty of ways to make a good cup of coffee on your stove top, or, you could fire up the truck while the coffee is brewing.

For me, as long as I have a way to provide coffee, my wife is happy (that's really why I have such a large battery system and Inverter !!

[FL-Guy]

Sorry, noob questions. I got the 200Ah battery and a 50A disconnect/breaker. I am planning to use 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire from the bus bar connection on the frame to the battery replacing the 10 gauge factory wire. It's less than a 10 foot run. Is this wire okay to use?

[Redapple63]

Sorry, noob questions. I got the 200Ah battery and a 50A disconnect/breaker. I am planning to use 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire from the bus bar connection on the frame to the battery replacing the 10 gauge factory wire. It's less than a 10 foot run. Is this wire okay to use?

GM,

Only use good copper wire. Do not use any type of aluminum wire.

For 50 amp I would use 6ga wire.

Bill

[powerscol]

Sorry, noob questions. I got the 200Ah battery and a 50A disconnect/breaker. I am planning to use 8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire from the bus bar connection on the frame to the battery replacing the 10 gauge factory wire. It's less than a 10 foot run. Is this wire okay to use?

First Never use copper clad aluminum wire anywhere. Best wire for batterys is 100% copper welding cable. Its flexible. A good USA made source is here https://temcoindustrial.com/ they have good customer service too.

Otherwise I recommend 100% copper TNN wire. ANCOR is a good USA made brand - there are others, but most are China

You need at least 4awg wire. At that distance your 8 awg is good for about 20A

The following chart (3%) gives the value http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...on_chartlg.jpg For DC wiring you double the distance as the circuit is a loop. You negative wire should be the same size too.

If you ever are thinking of adding a second battery, say to run an inverter, I would actually go with 2/0 or whats needed for the inverter amperage draw. it can be well over 50A

Hope this helps

[FL-Guy]

Thanks for the info. I will definitely get copper! I have a Imagine 17MKE with 30A service. 165W Furrion solar panel with 25A MTTP solar charger (all stock) My converter is lithium compatible. The 2 factory installed wires going to the wet battery from the terminal blocks on the front A frame are 10 gauge. I want to install the new Lithium 200Ah battery inside the trailer under my Murphy bed and will route the 2 wires there. I plan to put the breaker as a shutoff switch on the positive side of the battery for storage. I guess I could just get a cutoff switch instead. The distance from the terminal blocks to the battery less than 10ft unless I run them all over the place. 4 awg seems to be quite a bit of a jump in size from the 10 gauge cable there now.