Anyone know about this lithium battery brand?

[obiewan]

Yes, I found another German maybe Flemish?? YouTube review with a teardown. I found 3 reviews from reviewers who appeared to have a number of reviews for other batteries and solar projects. They all gave the battery a thumbs up. It looks like these batteries have been marketed in Germany longer than in the US.

Frank/Nadine,

I'm going to buy one of these batteries if/when they come back in stock (can't beat the price). You mentioned that there was a low-temp disconnect earlier in the thread. There is nothing in the manual (but I do appreciate a nice discharge curve!) either:
https://www.wanroytech.com/wp-conten...UserManual.pdf

The difference will be if it will go under the bed or down in the battery section of the front compartment, really. I do wish it had a >100A BMS but hey, for the price, whatevs.

Thanks!
obie

[FL-Guy]

Frank/Nadine,

I'm going to buy one of these batteries if/when they come back in stock (can't beat the price). You mentioned that there was a low-temp disconnect earlier in the thread. There is nothing in the manual (but I do appreciate a nice discharge curve!) either:
https://www.wanroytech.com/wp-conten...UserManual.pdf

The difference will be if it will go under the bed or down in the battery section of the front compartment, really. I do wish it had a >100A BMS but hey, for the price, whatevs.

Thanks!
obie

Maybe I got their one and only battery they had

[SolarPoweredRV]

Frank/Nadine,

I'm going to buy one of these batteries if/when they come back in stock (can't beat the price). You mentioned that there was a low-temp disconnect earlier in the thread. There is nothing in the manual (but I do appreciate a nice discharge curve!) either:
https://www.wanroytech.com/wp-conten...UserManual.pdf

The difference will be if it will go under the bed or down in the battery section of the front compartment, really. I do wish it had a >100A BMS but hey, for the price, whatevs.

Thanks!
obie

Are you only planning to install a single 200ah battery?

If yes, what are you going to power with the battery? If you are planning to power a 3,000 Watt Inverter, this battery will not work in that application (especially at 12 volts).

However, if you are planning to install multiple batteries, as long as you connect each battery to a Buss Bar (instead of running wires between each battery) each battery will be able of contributing 100 amps to the load (for 200 amps total draw).

If you are only running the devices that came with the camper you should be OK with a 100 amp BMS limitation on the discharge rate. However, if you are planning on running an Inverter, I would suggest you buy a couple more batteries, or switch to 3 or 4 100ah batteries all connected using the Buss Bar method.

The key to all this is that a 3000 Watt Inverter (plus everything else) can easily top 300 amps of draw on your battery bank. The good news is that you can now justify buying more batteries !

But seriously, this illustrates the need to plan out your whole system before you start buying components to ensure you don't get yourself into a situation where you are forced to spend more money because the specs on the components you did buy don't quite match what you really need.

[FL-Guy]

Are you only planning to install a single 200ah battery?

If yes, what are you going to power with the battery? If you are planning to power a 3,000 Watt Inverter, this battery will not work in that application (especially at 12 volts).

However, if you are planning to install multiple batteries, as long as you connect each battery to a Buss Bar (instead of running wires between each battery) each battery will be able of contributing 100 amps to the load (for 200 amps total draw).

If you are only running the devices that came with the camper you should be OK with a 100 amp BMS limitation on the discharge rate. However, if you are planning on running an Inverter, I would suggest you buy a couple more batteries, or switch to 3 or 4 100ah batteries all connected using the Buss Bar method.

The key to all this is that a 3000 Watt Inverter (plus everything else) can easily top 300 amps of draw on your battery bank. The good news is that you can now justify buying more batteries !

But seriously, this illustrates the need to plan out your whole system before you start buying components to ensure you don't get yourself into a situation where you are forced to spend more money because the specs on the components you did buy don't quite match what you really need.

Actually, we don't need an inverter. My truck has a built in 7200W generator/inverter. I just wanted a bigger battery than the pathetic 81Ah wet cell that the dealer installed. We got the camper 4 months used so it had what it had. Want to be able to run the 12V fridge and some lights for a overnight stops where there isn't any hookups without having to keep the truck tethered. My wife is even skeptical of doing that, she's a glamper.

[SolarPoweredRV]

Actually, we don't need an inverter. My truck has a built in 7200W generator/inverter. I just wanted a bigger battery than the pathetic 81Ah wet cell that the dealer installed. We got the camper 4 months used so it had what it had. Want to be able to run the 12V fridge and some lights for a overnight stops where there isn't any hookups without having to keep the truck tethered. My wife is even skeptical of doing that, she's a glamper.

For that use case, the 200ah with a 100 amp BMS will work perfectly.

As far as over nighting goes, we love to find out of the way and unusual spots to camp overnight. Part of the fun is finding the unique spots.

[obiewan]

Are you only planning to install a single 200ah battery?

If yes, what are you going to power with the battery? If you are planning to power a 3,000 Watt Inverter, this battery will not work in that application (especially at 12 volts).

However, if you are planning to install multiple batteries, as long as you connect each battery to a Buss Bar (instead of running wires between each battery) each battery will be able of contributing 100 amps to the load (for 200 amps total draw).

If you are only running the devices that came with the camper you should be OK with a 100 amp BMS limitation on the discharge rate. However, if you are planning on running an Inverter, I would suggest you buy a couple more batteries, or switch to 3 or 4 100ah batteries all connected using the Buss Bar method.

The key to all this is that a 3000 Watt Inverter (plus everything else) can easily top 300 amps of draw on your battery bank. The good news is that you can now justify buying more batteries !

But seriously, this illustrates the need to plan out your whole system before you start buying components to ensure you don't get yourself into a situation where you are forced to spend more money because the specs on the components you did buy don't quite match what you really need.

Exactly. I plan to buy a 200AH battery and a Lithium-compatible converter-charger and that's it. No solar, no inverter, etc. My use case is primarily in places with full hookups so I would like to mitigate a pedestal power outage for the basics (phones, water pump, fans and whatnot) and essentially not worry about dealing with a flooded cell while reducing weight. Ideally it'll make it so my 12V system is an afterthought.

If my older-style fridge goes and I "upgrade" it with a 12V board/compressor, I'll be ready as well.

Thanks for the post! Patiently waiting for these to come back into stock!
obie

[obiewan]

Actually, we don't need an inverter. My truck has a built in 7200W generator/inverter. I just wanted a bigger battery than the pathetic 81Ah wet cell that the dealer installed. We got the camper 4 months used so it had what it had. Want to be able to run the 12V fridge and some lights for a overnight stops where there isn't any hookups without having to keep the truck tethered. My wife is even skeptical of doing that, she's a glamper.

Thanks Frank/Nadine, this is exactly my use case without the sweet truck part. SWEET! That would for sure give us some awesome options...
obie