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  1. #1
    Site Sponsor sande005's Avatar
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    TV Lift repair/replacement

    Any information on this?

    On my 2017 2670MK, the TV lift started to make more than usual noise when going up or down. The threaded lift rod, at the top, appears to have no bearing. Just the rod end in the sheet metal hole in the cross bracket. I note when the TV gets to the top of the travel, there is no electrical stop, just the lift screw rod bending as it tries to force things higher than they will go. This bends the rod, and the motor at the bottom twists in its mount. The rod, now, has a bow in it during up/down operation, making the unsupported top end bang around. Hence the noise. I'm guessing parts fell off, although nothing appears to be bouncing around behind the fireplace.

    Can't find anything on-line about what make/model this elevator is, let alone any parts diagrams or availability.

    Will be going to the dealer for routine work in a few weeks, so I could spend the major dollars for them to repair/replace. But would rather not...

    So if there are other sources, suggestions or such, I'd love to hear.
    2017 Imagine 2670MK
    2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
    Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
    (Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)

  2. #2
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    There should be stop collars on the screw shaft at the top and the bottom. As far as the televator is concerned, they are made by MORryde. When I needed a replacement shaft and motor, I called MORryde directly - but you may have to get the MORryde model number from GD first.

    Rob
    Last edited by Second Chance; 03-17-2023 at 09:11 AM.
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
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    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
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  3. #3
    Site Sponsor sande005's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    There should be stop collars on the screw shaft at the top and the bottom. As far as the televator is concerned, they are made by MORryde. When I needed a replacement shaft and motor, I call MORryde directly - but you may have to get the MORryde model number from GD first.

    Rob
    Thanks Rob. Nothing like it listed on the MORryde site. Guess I'll have to call GD to get the model, then call MORryde. Supposed to rain today, so it may be an indoor project to pull the fireplace, and see if I can better determine what is going on....

    Ted
    2017 Imagine 2670MK
    2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
    Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
    (Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)

  4. #4
    Left The Driveway BustedCompass's Avatar
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    Just checking to see if you've learned any more about this, as I have the very same issue on my 2019 GD 2670MK.

    In general, I do these types of repairs myself, but access to that device is so tight that I really hope to find a simpler solution than replacement (it wouldn't surprise me to find that the televator was installed before the outside wall was in place).


    (Also, it's good to know I'm not the only one pulling that trailer with a 6-cylinder F-150. More than 16,000 trouble-free towed miles so far. Love that truck! )

    Steve

  5. #5
    Site Sponsor sande005's Avatar
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    No progress on the repair. Got stymied by the 8 point screws used to fasten the TV onto the elevator. Apparently a square bit will fit well enough to loosen the two screws on each side, to allow the TV to be lifted off. But I've already bought too many tools on this trip to replace ones I have many of at home!

    Lots of googling of sort-of-like-mine pictures, peering with flashlights and mirrors, etc. On mine, there apparently never was a top bearing for the lift rod. No sign there was ever something there, it just goes into an oversize hole in the cross bar and can bang around a bit. There is clearly a stop collar at the very bottom of the lift rod, near the motor, that seems to be where it should be to limit downward travel. Nothing electrical to shut it off though, it just is a physical stop. There is a similar stop collar loosely held in a cup on the elevator. It can easily come out of its mount as the jack turns. But that doesn't seem to be any problem, as it reseats itself easily. Seems to be just that - a physical stop to hit the top cross bar when the TV reaches full height.

    I'll take off the TV, and pull the heater, when I get home in about 2 weeks. Maybe with gentle force I can take some of the bend out of the jack rod. But initial summary seems to be that it is just made as cheaply as it possibly could be, and the bending of the lift rod/motor assembly is an expected occurrence when the switch is held too long for up/down travel. I'll report back if I find anything different later. But I have a feeling it will be an "education" moment for the other camper(s) to let off the switch before the TV reaches it's up/down limits.....especially since "better" replacements seem to be in the many, many hundreds of dollars.
    2017 Imagine 2670MK
    2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
    Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
    (Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)

  6. #6
    Site Sponsor BeerBrewer's Avatar
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    We just purchased a 2670MK and I already noticed some of the issues with the TV lift mechanism that you mentioned above. There doesn't seem to be any stop on the mechanism as it lifts the TV. When the TV lifts the left side stops rising before the right side. This causes the TV to tilt a little and the threaded rod bows a bit. I noticed all this when I attempted to mount a sound bar just below the TV. Unfortunately I can't seem to be able to loosen the two screws. (probably should be four) that hold the TV on! Nothing I own fits the bolt pattern, not toques, square, star....nothing fits.

    When I find the correct tool is there anything that I can do to improve the lift mechanism so it lasts longer?
    Last edited by BeerBrewer; 03-23-2023 at 09:55 AM.

  7. #7
    Site Sponsor sande005's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeerBrewer View Post
    We just purchased a 2670MK and I already noticed some of the issues with the TV lift mechanism that you mentioned above. There doesn't seem to be any stop on the mechanism as it lifts the TV. When the TV lifts the left side stops rising before the right side. This causes the TV to tilt a little and the threaded rod bows a bit. I noticed all this when I attempted to mount a sound bar just below the TV. Unfortunately I can't seem to be able to loosen the two screws. (probably should be four) that hold the TV on! Nothing I own fits the bolt pattern, not toques, square, star....nothing fits.

    When I find the correct tool is there anything that I can do to improve the lift mechanism so it lasts longer?
    Do a search here for 'televator". I don't have time right now, but there was a post I saw that specifically noted the tool needed for the bolts. Just one more specialty item for the tool box that will never be needed for anything else!
    2017 Imagine 2670MK
    2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
    Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
    (Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)

  8. #8
    Site Sponsor BeerBrewer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sande005 View Post
    Do a search here for 'televator". I don't have time right now, but there was a post I saw that specifically noted the tool needed for the bolts. Just one more specialty item for the tool box that will never be needed for anything else!
    Sande005 I can't thank you enough! It took a few minutes but I found the post that you were referring to.

    It can be found at "https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/34109-TV-Remote-amp-Televator?highlight=remote+televator"

    In the post they have a link to Amazon where the tool can be found. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

    Thanks

    Bob

  9. #9
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sande005 View Post
    No progress on the repair. Got stymied by the 8 point screws used to fasten the TV onto the elevator. Apparently a square bit will fit well enough to loosen the two screws on each side, to allow the TV to be lifted off. But I've already bought too many tools on this trip to replace ones I have many of at home!

    Lots of googling of sort-of-like-mine pictures, peering with flashlights and mirrors, etc. On mine, there apparently never was a top bearing for the lift rod. No sign there was ever something there, it just goes into an oversize hole in the cross bar and can bang around a bit. There is clearly a stop collar at the very bottom of the lift rod, near the motor, that seems to be where it should be to limit downward travel. Nothing electrical to shut it off though, it just is a physical stop. There is a similar stop collar loosely held in a cup on the elevator. It can easily come out of its mount as the jack turns. But that doesn't seem to be any problem, as it reseats itself easily. Seems to be just that - a physical stop to hit the top cross bar when the TV reaches full height.

    I'll take off the TV, and pull the heater, when I get home in about 2 weeks. Maybe with gentle force I can take some of the bend out of the jack rod. But initial summary seems to be that it is just made as cheaply as it possibly could be, and the bending of the lift rod/motor assembly is an expected occurrence when the switch is held too long for up/down travel. I'll report back if I find anything different later. But I have a feeling it will be an "education" moment for the other camper(s) to let off the switch before the TV reaches it's up/down limits.....especially since "better" replacements seem to be in the many, many hundreds of dollars.
    I drove myself nuts trying to find the appropriate tool for those screws as well. Turns out, a standard #2 square/Robertson bit is all you need. I had no problems with the fit of the square bit.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  10. #10
    Left The Driveway BustedCompass's Avatar
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    "...initial summary seems to be that it is just made as cheaply as it possibly could be"

    Cheap parts in an RV? I'm shocked. Shocked I say!!
    Last edited by BustedCompass; 03-24-2023 at 05:11 AM.
    Full-timer since 2019
    2019 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK
    2016 Ford F-150, 3.5L Turbo
    Get Lost with Us at: BustedCompass.us

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