2022 Reflection 31mb Converter/charger lithium upgrade and move

[SGT ROC]

You only want to buy/install once. Plan your ultimate system and build it incrementally. Converter/charger and single LiFePo4 is a great first start. If you ultimately want a full blown boon docking system with 600+ amp hours of storage - plan everything with that in mind.

That is exactly my plan. I haven't decided on the converter charger yet. I know I will not be going to the WF 9855 AD. I have heard virtually nothing good about that unit. @Mudhendriver, apparently they changed the location of the converter driver since 2019. I have to remove the wall in the storage compartment, and the drawers in the built in dresser in the bunk room. The converter is located almost exactly 1/2 way between each. Not easy to get to at all, especially with all of the wires in there. I am not changing locations, but will TRY to straighten up the mess in there.

[Soundsailor]

That is exactly my plan. I haven't decided on the converter charger yet. I know I will not be going to the WF 9855 AD. I have heard virtually nothing good about that unit. @Mudhendriver, apparently they changed the location of the converter driver since 2019. I have to remove the wall in the storage compartment, and the drawers in the built in dresser in the bunk room. The converter is located almost exactly 1/2 way between each. Not easy to get to at all, especially with all of the wires in there. I am not changing locations, but will TRY to straighten up the mess in there.

Yep, I have the 9855AD and I can't recommend it (right now). So far it has not performed as advertised. I did the discharge thing, and it did go into what appeared to be lithium mode at first. But it didn't seem to stay there very long. WFCO recommends cycling the power for the AD models as soon as you start the charging cycle after doing the discharge to below 10%. I didn't do that and plan a new test as soon as my coach returns from some warranty work. If it worked as expected, the 9855AD would be fine for me. I didn't have to replace the cables since it had the same output as the stock PD charger (which didn't support lithium at all).

[SGT ROC]

Yep, I have the 9855AD and I can't recommend it (right now). So far it has not performed as advertised. I did the discharge thing, and it did go into what appeared to be lithium mode at first. But it didn't seem to stay there very long. WFCO recommends cycling the power for the AD models as soon as you start the charging cycle after doing the discharge to below 10%. I didn't do that and plan a new test as soon as my coach returns from some warranty work. If it worked as expected, the 9855AD would be fine for me. I didn't have to replace the cables since it had the same output as the stock PD charger (which didn't support lithium at all).

My plan right now is to go with the WFCO WF-9855-LIS, or maybe the Powermax PM3-55LK Maybe the Progressive Dynamics unit. Won't decide for a couple of months.

[Soundsailor]

My plan right now is to go with the WFCO WF-9855-LIS, or maybe the Powermax PM3-55LK Maybe the Progressive Dynamics unit. Won't decide for a couple of months.

Yes, the WFCO WF-9855-LIS apparently has a switch to go into Lithium mode. I would have gotten that if it had been available at the time. I can't comment directly on the other two choices.

[Mudhendriver]

I recently did a low cost upgrade to my 303 RLS and upgraded my converter charger to a 120A version and relocated it to the front compartment with all my other electrical devices. I just remoted the plug for it to the front compartment and added a switch that I can turn off/on when I want it to run. It's super easy to remote the 120V side and not worry about voltage drops on the 12v side if you do it that way. I wanted all my devices in one location and didn't want to remove everything out of my basement storage if I need to access or diagnose anything. My 120A converter charges my 560Ah of LiPO4 batteries.

This is consistent with why I was thinking of moving my converter. I was planning on running the A/C plug cord off the converter back the the back of the AC panel with a HD line, or running a remote from the AC panel to the front compartment. With the stock buses already up in the front, did you utilize them for connection into the battery, or did you go direct to the battery with the dc out off the converter? Also, by how I see it wired, the 12vdc + comes off the bus so that should also power the dc side of the panel; so as long as the converter is wired into the batt or bus bar, it should power the DC panel. I don’t think I would have to run any extra wires back to power it. Thought? Again, just looking for tips. I appreciate all the awesome posts on this thread.

[COGrandDes]

This is consistent with why I was thinking of moving my converter. I was planning on running the A/C plug cord off the converter back the the back of the AC panel with a HD line, or running a remote from the AC panel to the front compartment. With the stock buses already up in the front, did you utilize them for connection into the battery, or did you go direct to the battery with the dc out off the converter? Also, by how I see it wired, the 12vdc + comes off the bus so that should also power the dc side of the panel; so as long as the converter is wired into the batt or bus bar, it should power the DC panel. I don’t think I would have to run any extra wires back to power it. Thought? Again, just looking for tips. I appreciate all the awesome posts on this thread.

Here's the path to my upgrades post showing what I did. https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...834#post460834

I just ran some 12 ga cord from my 120V power panel female plug (where the converter plugs in) through my basement area and up to the front compartment into a switchable outlet. Then the PowerMax converter plugs in direct to that switchable plug. It's super easy! You can see it in the pic from my post above. I wired in new bus bars for the red and black 12v feeds so that I could hook all my leads in there as well as the battery shunt monitor. I have the system just the way I want it and didn't spend more than like $700 on everything except for more batteries.

[Mudhendriver]

Here's the path to my upgrades post showing what I did. https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...834#post460834

I just ran some 12 ga cord from my 120V power panel female plug (where the converter plugs in) through my basement area and up to the front compartment into a switchable outlet. Then the PowerMax converter plugs in direct to that switchable plug. It's super easy! You can see it in the pic from my post above. I wired in new bus bars for the red and black 12v feeds so that I could hook all my leads in there as well as the battery shunt monitor. I have the system just the way I want it and didn't spend more than like $700 on everything except for more batteries.

Well that looks like a great set up. Your thread was outstanding and thanks for documenting all that. In your 303, does the 12v+ coming off you battery bus go back through the stock battery cuttoff, and then to the DC distribution panel as well? I assume you left your old converter charger in place and still wired to the DC out lines? I understand you obviously unplugged it from the panel to open up that port for your remote line to the new converter.

Thanks again for that awesome thread. It’s great to hear all the options out there!

[COGrandDes]

Well that looks like a great set up. Your thread was outstanding and thanks for documenting all that. In your 303, does the 12v+ coming off you battery bus go back through the stock battery cuttoff, and then to the DC distribution panel as well? I assume you left your old converter charger in place and still wired to the DC out lines? I understand you obviously unplugged it from the panel to open up that port for your remote line to the new converter.

Thanks again for that awesome thread. It’s great to hear all the options out there!

Good morning! Thanks. I did not change the routing that came from the factory with the battery disconnect switch. I have a disconnect on my battery to inverter feed, solar panels to solar controller box, 120V converter power, and each of my Big Battery LiPO4 batteries has an on-board shut off switch on them. I can quickly isolate any of the feeds and camper power. It goes to show you can do this control stuff reasonably or go full-bore if you have the $$$$$. I have way more hobbies and other things competing for the funds so I went low dollar on the controls and added $$$ into the batteries so that we can boondock longer without concern.

I did not feel like climbing all the way into the basement area under the stairs to completely remove my old converter so I left it there for now as a backup I guess. I have disconnected the 12v wires from the old converter to the OEM bus bar for now. That section of the original camper wiring is not as clean as I would like but I have left most of it in tact as it's hidden when I have my lithium batteries in their space. Hope that helps!

[Mudhendriver]

Good morning! Thanks. I did not change the routing that came from the factory with the battery disconnect switch. I have a disconnect on my battery to inverter feed, solar panels to solar controller box, 120V converter power, and each of my Big Battery LiPO4 batteries has an on-board shut off switch on them. I can quickly isolate any of the feeds and camper power. It goes to show you can do this control stuff reasonably or go full-bore if you have the $$$$$. I have way more hobbies and other things competing for the funds so I went low dollar on the controls and added $$$ into the batteries so that we can boondock longer without concern.

I did not feel like climbing all the way into the basement area under the stairs to completely remove my old converter so I left it there for now as a backup I guess. I have disconnected the 12v wires from the old converter to the OEM bus bar for now. That section of the original camper wiring is not as clean as I would like but I have left most of it in tact as it's hidden when I have my lithium batteries in their space. Hope that helps!

I understand, I plan on including various cutoffs as you and others have done for the same reasons. It’s nice to have some direct and verifiable control if the RV power distribution.

When you disconnected your old converter from
The Oem dc bus bar, do you mean the two (I think black and white) 6awg that wire into the back of the rv fuse panel/dc distribution? I see those there and was wondering the same as long I can verify that they only go from the converter to that bus bar and no where else. I had a similar reason to leave my converter in place, backup and RV resale considerations some day.

[COGrandDes]

I understand, I plan on including various cutoffs as you and others have done for the same reasons. It’s nice to have some direct and verifiable control if the RV power distribution.

When you disconnected your old converter from
The Oem dc bus bar, do you mean the two (I think black and white) 6awg that wire into the back of the rv fuse panel/dc distribution? I see those there and was wondering the same as long I can verify that they only go from the converter to that bus bar and no where else. I had a similar reason to leave my converter in place, backup and RV resale considerations some day.

Yes---I believe those were the two wire colors. Basically it's the positive and negative feeds from the converter/charger to your bus bar/battery. It's been a couple months since I did that piece. I would have to check for sure on the colors and location of the wires.