2022 Reflection 31mb Converter/charger lithium upgrade and move

[Mudhendriver]

Good day! I have a 2022 reflection 31mb. I am in the process of upgrading my current 60 amp converter charger to a progressive lithium capable model, same amperage. I am installing 2x100aH BB batteries to accompany, with future plans to include more bats and an inverter.

I plan to potentially install the new converter up front next to the batteries. I want to minimize converter to battery dc voltage drop, and leave the old converter in place under the steps, although unplugged from the back of the panel (but still wired in to the DC out) I have found many threads on this topic and understand the basics, but nothing to the specifics: hoping some folks could weigh in on this plan with any advice.

Any of you fine Americans taken this plunge with a 31mb or similar model? I was planning on just connecting the converter directly to the batts vs the bus bar, but looking for advice on that topic. Also, the wiring path is difficult to follow, and I am wondering how this will interact with the current wiring to/from the battery bus and the battery cutoff.

All in all, just looking for any help and advice from the community.

Cheers,
Andy

[SGT ROC]

I am interested in the replies as well. I plan on making a similar leap this summer. Not going BB batteries but LiTime.

[FT4NOW]

The easiest way with what you are doing would be to install bus bars for the battery, new converter and DC panel. The stock converter most likely goes straight to the DC panel and then back to the batteries. Don't forget you'll need AC power available wherever you put the new converter. In addition to an AC plug, there is usually a separate converter frame ground wire that will need to be installed.

[Mudhendriver]

The easiest way with what you are doing would be to install bus bars for the battery, new converter and DC panel. The stock converter most likely goes straight to the DC panel and then back to the batteries. Don't forget you'll need AC power available wherever you put the new converter. In addition to an AC plug, there is usually a separate converter frame ground wire that will need to be installed.

Copy. Can you elaborate a bit on the bus bar and how that would actually wire up? The stock reflection has a dc bus bar up front already, are you recommending an additional one? And would I be ok to attach the converter directly to the battery bank, or do I have to attach it via the stock (or new?) bus bar?

As for as wiring, it looks like it does as you say: converter-dc panel-batteries via maybe the disconnect switch (still working that out).

Thanks!

[Jomani]

Not entirely sure why you want to move it. Factory wiring is suitable for the lithium compatible replacement. Since the converter charger has a dual function (powering the DC circuits in the trailer and charging the battery), I don’t see the advantage of moving it, unless, you plan to run larger cable.

I have a 2022 Reflection 303RLS. It currently has a Progressive Dynamics PD9260C. I have the replacement PD9160ALV ready to install as soon as I recover from shoulder surgery. Mine will go in the same spot as the old one - simple plug and play. In it’s current location, you don’t have to make any changes if/when you add an inverter. The inverter prep is already setup to disable the charger when running on inverter power. If you install it in the front, you will need to add an AC circuit that can be switched off when using the inverter.

[Mudhendriver]

Not entirely sure why you want to move it. Factory wiring is suitable for the lithium compatible replacement. Since the converter charger has a dual function (powering the DC circuits in the trailer and charging the battery), I don’t see the advantage of moving it, unless, you plan to run larger cable.

I have a 2022 Reflection 303RLS. It currently has a Progressive Dynamics PD9260C. I have the replacement PD9160ALV ready to install as soon as I recover from shoulder surgery. Mine will go in the same spot as the old one - simple plug and play. In it’s current location, you don’t have to make any changes if/when you add an inverter. The inverter prep is already setup to disable the charger when running on inverter power. If you install it in the front, you will need to add an AC circuit that can be switched off when using the inverter.

Thank you I appreciate your insight. makes me re consider just drop in replacing the one I have versus leaving it in. I hope your shoulder gets better soon!
Andy

[FT4NOW]

Copy. Can you elaborate a bit on the bus bar and how that would actually wire up? The stock reflection has a dc bus bar up front already, are you recommending an additional one? And would I be ok to attach the converter directly to the battery bank, or do I have to attach it via the stock (or new?) bus bar?

As for as wiring, it looks like it does as you say: converter-dc panel-batteries via maybe the disconnect switch (still working that out).

Thanks!

If doing a bus bar, you would get 2, a positive and negative and mount them on the wall in your front storage compartment. You would want equal lengths of wire from each battery to the bus bar. You would have the newly relocated converter wired directly to the bus bar. You would then need to run wires from each bus bar back to your DC fuse panel. You would also need to consider the wiring that is already in the front compartment, mainly the wiring that comes off the 12v circuit breakers, usually behind a little black plastic cover.

For less work, a direct swap of the converter would be sufficient as long as the stock wiring is properly sized, which you say it is.

You had mentioned you want the converter closer to the batteries which is why I suggested what I did.

With my bus bar explanation above, you would need to decide best way to install battery cutoff switch.

[Soundsailor]

Copy. Can you elaborate a bit on the bus bar and how that would actually wire up? The stock reflection has a dc bus bar up front already, are you recommending an additional one? And would I be ok to attach the converter directly to the battery bank, or do I have to attach it via the stock (or new?) bus bar?

As for as wiring, it looks like it does as you say: converter-dc panel-batteries via maybe the disconnect switch (still working that out).

Thanks!

What I did was set up two bus bars to handle the batteries. I built a box to house the batteries (also facilitates heating the batteries). The bus bars are directly on the battery box. Coming off the bus bars, the negative lead goes to my shunt (monitoring the charge level of the batteries) and the positive lead goes to my shut-off switch. The cables from the existing DC bus bars are connected on the other side of the switch/shunt along with a cable to my inverter. On my spring project list is rewiring the cable from the converter charger to go directly to the switch/shunt connections minimizing voltage drop.

[Jomani]

Thank you I appreciate your insight. makes me re consider just drop in replacing the one I have versus leaving it in. I hope your shoulder gets better soon!
Andy

Thanks - the shoulder surgery has allowed me way too much time to spend researching. There are some very good reasons to move the converter/charger - higher output than the factory wires can handle, all-in-one inverter Charger, etc. When you start looking at some of the impressive build pictures, you will notice just how tight the space gets in that front compartment. Sitting on the bench in my garage are the following; Renogy 3k inverter, Renogy 60amp DC-DC Charger, Progressive Dynamics 60amp converter/charger, Progressive Dynamics automatic transfer switch, dual buss bars, 2 battery disconnect switches (one for battery circuit and one for solar circuit), Renogy shunt/battery monitor, 300amp ANL fuse, 80 amp ANL fuse, 100 amp ANL fuse, 100’ of 4awg welding cable for the DC-DC Charger, 20’ of 3/0 welding cable, miscellaneous connectors, etc. My point? Way too much stuff to pack into that small space.

The best advice I got when I started planning this - think end game and work your way backwards. You only want to buy/install once. Plan your ultimate system and build it incrementally. Converter/charger and single LiFePo4 is a great first start. If you ultimately want a full blown boon docking system with 600+ amp hours of storage - plan everything with that in mind.

[COGrandDes]

Good day! I have a 2022 reflection 31mb. I am in the process of upgrading my current 60 amp converter charger to a progressive lithium capable model, same amperage. I am installing 2x100aH BB batteries to accompany, with future plans to include more bats and an inverter.

I plan to potentially install the new converter up front next to the batteries. I want to minimize converter to battery dc voltage drop, and leave the old converter in place under the steps, although unplugged from the back of the panel (but still wired in to the DC out) I have found many threads on this topic and understand the basics, but nothing to the specifics: hoping some folks could weigh in on this plan with any advice.

Any of you fine Americans taken this plunge with a 31mb or similar model? I was planning on just connecting the converter directly to the batts vs the bus bar, but looking for advice on that topic. Also, the wiring path is difficult to follow, and I am wondering how this will interact with the current wiring to/from the battery bus and the battery cutoff.

All in all, just looking for any help and advice from the community.

Cheers,
Andy

I recently did a low cost upgrade to my 303 RLS and upgraded my converter charger to a 120A version and relocated it to the front compartment with all my other electrical devices. I just remoted the plug for it to the front compartment and added a switch that I can turn off/on when I want it to run. It's super easy to remote the 120V side and not worry about voltage drops on the 12v side if you do it that way. I wanted all my devices in one location and didn't want to remove everything out of my basement storage if I need to access or diagnose anything. My 120A converter charges my 560Ah of LiPO4 batteries.