2022 Reflection 31mb Converter/charger lithium upgrade and move

[Mudhendriver]

Good day! I have a 2022 reflection 31mb. I am in the process of upgrading my current 60 amp converter charger to a progressive lithium capable model, same amperage. I am installing 2x100aH BB batteries to accompany, with future plans to include more bats and an inverter.

I plan to potentially install the new converter up front next to the batteries. I want to minimize converter to battery dc voltage drop, and leave the old converter in place under the steps, although unplugged from the back of the panel (but still wired in to the DC out) I have found many threads on this topic and understand the basics, but nothing to the specifics: hoping some folks could weigh in on this plan with any advice.

Any of you fine Americans taken this plunge with a 31mb or similar model? I was planning on just connecting the converter directly to the batts vs the bus bar, but looking for advice on that topic. Also, the wiring path is difficult to follow, and I am wondering how this will interact with the current wiring to/from the battery bus and the battery cutoff.

All in all, just looking for any help and advice from the community.

Cheers,
Andy

[SGT ROC]

I am interested in the replies as well. I plan on making a similar leap this summer. Not going BB batteries but LiTime.

[FT4NOW]

The easiest way with what you are doing would be to install bus bars for the battery, new converter and DC panel. The stock converter most likely goes straight to the DC panel and then back to the batteries. Don't forget you'll need AC power available wherever you put the new converter. In addition to an AC plug, there is usually a separate converter frame ground wire that will need to be installed.

[Mudhendriver]

The easiest way with what you are doing would be to install bus bars for the battery, new converter and DC panel. The stock converter most likely goes straight to the DC panel and then back to the batteries. Don't forget you'll need AC power available wherever you put the new converter. In addition to an AC plug, there is usually a separate converter frame ground wire that will need to be installed.

Copy. Can you elaborate a bit on the bus bar and how that would actually wire up? The stock reflection has a dc bus bar up front already, are you recommending an additional one? And would I be ok to attach the converter directly to the battery bank, or do I have to attach it via the stock (or new?) bus bar?

As for as wiring, it looks like it does as you say: converter-dc panel-batteries via maybe the disconnect switch (still working that out).

Thanks!

[FT4NOW]

Copy. Can you elaborate a bit on the bus bar and how that would actually wire up? The stock reflection has a dc bus bar up front already, are you recommending an additional one? And would I be ok to attach the converter directly to the battery bank, or do I have to attach it via the stock (or new?) bus bar?

As for as wiring, it looks like it does as you say: converter-dc panel-batteries via maybe the disconnect switch (still working that out).

Thanks!

If doing a bus bar, you would get 2, a positive and negative and mount them on the wall in your front storage compartment. You would want equal lengths of wire from each battery to the bus bar. You would have the newly relocated converter wired directly to the bus bar. You would then need to run wires from each bus bar back to your DC fuse panel. You would also need to consider the wiring that is already in the front compartment, mainly the wiring that comes off the 12v circuit breakers, usually behind a little black plastic cover.

For less work, a direct swap of the converter would be sufficient as long as the stock wiring is properly sized, which you say it is.

You had mentioned you want the converter closer to the batteries which is why I suggested what I did.

With my bus bar explanation above, you would need to decide best way to install battery cutoff switch.

[Soundsailor]

Copy. Can you elaborate a bit on the bus bar and how that would actually wire up? The stock reflection has a dc bus bar up front already, are you recommending an additional one? And would I be ok to attach the converter directly to the battery bank, or do I have to attach it via the stock (or new?) bus bar?

As for as wiring, it looks like it does as you say: converter-dc panel-batteries via maybe the disconnect switch (still working that out).

Thanks!

What I did was set up two bus bars to handle the batteries. I built a box to house the batteries (also facilitates heating the batteries). The bus bars are directly on the battery box. Coming off the bus bars, the negative lead goes to my shunt (monitoring the charge level of the batteries) and the positive lead goes to my shut-off switch. The cables from the existing DC bus bars are connected on the other side of the switch/shunt along with a cable to my inverter. On my spring project list is rewiring the cable from the converter charger to go directly to the switch/shunt connections minimizing voltage drop.

[Jomani]

Not entirely sure why you want to move it. Factory wiring is suitable for the lithium compatible replacement. Since the converter charger has a dual function (powering the DC circuits in the trailer and charging the battery), I don’t see the advantage of moving it, unless, you plan to run larger cable.

I have a 2022 Reflection 303RLS. It currently has a Progressive Dynamics PD9260C. I have the replacement PD9160ALV ready to install as soon as I recover from shoulder surgery. Mine will go in the same spot as the old one - simple plug and play. In it’s current location, you don’t have to make any changes if/when you add an inverter. The inverter prep is already setup to disable the charger when running on inverter power. If you install it in the front, you will need to add an AC circuit that can be switched off when using the inverter.

[jlspence99]

I have a 2019 303 RLS, with 4 100 Ah Battleborns in the forward bay charged by a PD 9160 ALV. My problem has been that unless the battery bank is almost completely discharged, I never get more than 35 amps to the batteries. I know other 303 owners with this charger get similar results. I’ve been on the line a couple of times with PD tech support and we’ve eliminated all causes except inadequate wiring (6 gauge) between the converter and the batteries. I’m about to re-wire this to 1/0 wire to reduce voltage drop. Just adding this because you state the existing wiring is suitable. It may not be depending on your rig and desire to achieve full charge capacity of your charger.

[Mudhendriver]

I have a 2019 303 RLS, with 4 100 Ah Battleborns in the forward bay charged by a PD 9160 ALV. My problem has been that unless the battery bank is almost completely discharged, I never get more than 35 amps to the batteries. I know other 303 owners with this charger get similar results. I’ve been on the line a couple of times with PD tech support and we’ve eliminated all causes except inadequate wiring (6 gauge) between the converter and the batteries. I’m about to re-wire this to 1/0 wire to reduce voltage drop. Just adding this because you state the existing wiring is suitable. It may not be depending on your rig and desire to achieve full charge capacity of your charger.

Interesting, I imagine that our converters are in a relatively similar spot as well: under the stairs, accessed by taking down the false wall in the pass through? Have you figured out how you are going to run the new wires?

[jlspence99]

Interesting, I imagine that our converters are in a relatively similar spot as well: under the stairs, accessed by taking down the false wall in the pass through? Have you figured out how you are going to run the new wires?

Correct, same location. I’m still researching and reading threads. Some here have left the existing wiring in place and run a second set of wires from the second set of lugs on the 9160 directly to the battery bank. That may be the way I go. We boondock a fair amount and it takes a long time to charge the battery bank at 25 to 35 amps versus 60 amps.