TurningPoint hitch Trailer jumps to side on curved on ramps… Normal?

[huntr70]

@Laffofpa
OK - It's good to know you folks follow up with your customers. Most dealer probably would not. I still believe he should lock it out and tow normally until the hitch can be examined. I am guessing here, but based on the issues the hitch head may be gouged up. Maybe the OP can take a picture or two of the hitch head and the wedge. With his Ford and the hitch head set back I believe he will be fine towing - others with that set up have done fine.

BTW did you set him up with the correct wedge, or just use the OEM?
Per this https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001724.pdf
He should be using the Reese SWW-06
https://www.amazon.com/Reese-SWW-06-.../dp/B004R369I8

I just want the OP to be safe and not damage the excellent hitch he has if he wished to continue use of the Turning Point.

On edit
If you did not provide the correct wedge I believe you owe it to him to get him the correct one and be responsible.

He did send me pictures of the hitch head and wedge. Neither show gouging from "slipping" in the head.

For now, he has put the bolts back in and is towing with the pin box locked out.

We have never had any issues using the standard universal wedge on any of the hitches. Curt requires you to use their own wedge on certain hitches and Pullrite doesn't want you to use their hitch with the Turning Point at all.

As long as the wedge makes contact with the sides of the cut out on the hitch head, it works. It is made to go in either forwards or backwards, as needed.

"These wedges may offer the best fit for the hitch design, although the standard wedge block included with the Turning Point Pin Box may also be
successfully used in many applications."


Wouldn't you recommend your own brand of aftermarket wedge to upsell instead of the provided one?

If B&W and Lippert both say that it needs the specific wedge, then that is what we will get. It's never been an issue before. I truly believe there is something else going on, like the bearing in the Turning Point. If it hasn't been serviced in 2 years, it may be binding.

[Laffofpa]

As Steve said, I drove about 6 hours to the next campsite and it was no better shifting sharply from side to side on certain curves.

That night I removed the wedge and installed the rear bolts @200#. Today I drove 400 mile home and it worked perfectly. I plan to continue to use the hitch as a normal pin box
Thank you for all the feedback
Greg

[powerscol]

As Steve said, I drove about 6 hours to the next campsite and it was no better shifting sharply from side to side on certain curves.

That night I removed the wedge and installed the rear bolts @200#. Today I drove 400 mile home and it worked perfectly. I plan to continue to use the hitch as a normal pin box
Thank you for all the feedback
Greg

Greg
Reach in the pin box and see if you can get a wrench on the center pivot bolt and tighten it. If it is loose and even if you have the lockout bolts in place things can go very wrong, so please check it. Does your turning point hitch plate (part that rotates) show any gap between the frame mount on the trailer?

Safe travels

On edit - is your castle nut below the pin box? if so you have the new model https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0004535.pdf
On other thing to check is the fitment at the hitch plate. When hook up, use the front jacks to lift the trailer and measure the gap. How high does the wedge get exposed - should not be much, but if high enough it could allow the wedge to rid up on the top plate, which should never happen. I believe the Reese wedge is thicker to prevent this from happening. Also check the hitch jaws (underside) and king pin shank for damage. If the wedge did in fact rid up on the plate it could have tweaked things below.
@huntr70 Both owners manuals clearly indicate for the B&W that the Reese WWW-06 is the correct wedge. I don't understand the logic of using a generic, when they clearly intend for the www-06 to be used. Yes it says may require, but when I see that I think I should get it. Just my 02, but I am an Engineer and safety conscience. That's why I have a 25K B&W OEM companion - overkill for my Reflection 220RK, but is something happens, I don't want things coming through the cab. It also allows me to upgrade in the future

[Laffofpa]

Greg
Reach in the pin box and see if you can get a wrench on the center pivot bolt and tighten it. If it is loose and even if you have the lockout bolts in place things can go very wrong, so please check it. Does your turning point hitch plate (part that rotates) show any gap between the frame mount on the trailer?

Safe travels

Is that called the castle nut? I can check it tomorrow as the camper is now at the storage facility and we are home
Thank you!

[Laffofpa]

Oh, no gap

[powerscol]

Yep - BTW I did edit my post.
Glad your home safe. How did it go locket out - any clearance issues? I would have the hitch fully inspected (consider disassembly) before your next outing. and if you still want to use the turning point, get the correct wedge. Have a friend look things over two. A second set of eyes is always helpful. Good thing is you should still be fully covered warranty wise.

Again trying to help

[Laffofpa]

Yep - BTW I did edit my post.
Glad your home safe. How did it go locket out - any clearance issues? I would have the hitch fully inspected (consider disassembly) before your next outing. and if you still want to use the turning point, get the correct wedge. Have a friend look things over two. A second set of eyes is always helpful. Good thing is you should still be fully covered warranty wise.

Again trying to help

It pulled much-much better and there were no clearance issues. Steve from Tom Schaffer’s has been very responsive including Sunday evening which was certainly appreciated

I also sent a question to B&w who said I should ask Lippert so I just sent a question to lippert

I have an appointment next week at a RV service shop (not Tom Schaeffer as I have moved since purchasing) and added to go over the pin box to their list

Here is a picture of the journey to give a sense of the distance and terrain as well as the wedge fit

[powerscol]

It pulled much-much better and there were no clearance issues. Steve from Tom Schaffer’s has been very responsive including Sunday evening which was certainly appreciated

I also sent a question to B&w who said I should ask Lippert so I just sent a question to lippert

I have an appointment next week at a RV service shop (not Tom Schaeffer as I have moved since purchasing) and added to go over the pin box to their list

Here is a picture of the journey to give a sense of the distance and terrain as well as the wedge fit

What a trip, but you missed Zion, Capitol Reef, Bryce, Monument Valley and SW Colorado. Do that next trip.

I really think you should have them send you the correct wedge. I don't like the two small contact points - lots of room for slop.. Was the grease there during the turning point use? I noticed the two vertical grease swipes where the contact point would be when hooked up, The contact points are also on what I call the wings/ramp section (not good), and not the hitch head as it should. As the hitch pivots for/aft this contact point would vary greatly. BTW send that picture to Lippert. I bet a cup of coffee they say get the other wedge.

Hope this helps

On edit - what stops were 3 through 9? I am headed there this fall Thanks for that.

[Laffofpa]

Grease was there while hooked up, although I wiped off the wedge
Here is a list from road trippers, some of the stops were Harvest Host. Our general rule is anything over 5 hours needs to get split up and harvest host was perfect for that

[powerscol]

Grease was there while hooked up, although I wiped off the wedge
Here is a list from road trippers, some of the stops were Harvest Host. Our general rule is anything over 5 hours needs to get split up and harvest host was perfect for that

Those grease track are were the wedge road up on top of the hitch. The noise and jerk you heard whee it coming back into position. You lucky it could have rotated all the way around and jammed up. Normally when using the turning point the hitch head is not greased. In fact I think the manual says that. If you going to use it as a std configuration now, get the B&W lube plate. Its the correct thickness so not to interfere with thier tight tolerances. Be sure to have the jaws and king pin checked out - just a precaution.

Thanks for the the list on stops.