397TH Single-Point Drain and Macerator Mod

[Nick5246]

Hey all,

First: I'm noodling through the idea of plumbing my two black/grey dump tubes (front and rear) into a single-point drain setup. Has anyone done this? I'd have to run a drain tube over the axles to pull this off and I'm not sure if there will be a clearance issue - or if there are other factors I haven't considered yet.

Second: I'm thinking about installing a permanent macerator with a bypass so I could still use the gravity tubes if needed. Anyone done this and/or any pitfalls?

[huntindog]

Hey all,

First: I'm noodling through the idea of plumbing my two black/grey dump tubes (front and rear) into a single-point drain setup. Has anyone done this? I'd have to run a drain tube over the axles to pull this off and I'm not sure if there will be a clearance issue - or if there are other factors I haven't considered yet.

Second: I'm thinking about installing a permanent macerator with a bypass so I could still use the gravity tubes if needed. Anyone done this and/or any pitfalls?

So long as you still have a valve for each tank, I like it

As for the crlearance Dexter states 3" minimum for suspension movement

[Nick5246]

Yeah I’d definitely put a valve on each pipe right before the wye. Looking at it though, I’m thinking I’d be making removal of the coroplast a nightmare. Still have to think about some more.

[huntindog]

Yeah I’d definitely put a valve on each pipe right before the wye. Looking at it though, I’m thinking I’d be making removal of the coroplast a nightmare. Still have to think about some more.

I have had two coaches with coroplast underbellies. On both of them, my first project was to remove it, drastically improve the insulation, and reinstall the coroplast in sections. This makes future service work much easier. It is a big job though, parked on concrete, a creeper is your best friend

The downside to exposed valves as you propose is that they can freeze. Don't ask me how I know this.

[wireslv]

Second: I'm thinking about installing a permanent macerator with a bypass so I could still use the gravity tubes if needed. Anyone done this and/or any pitfalls?

I've installed a permanent macerator. It's great for boondocking so I can pump into the tote tank in the bed of my truck. I installed the pump with a union on its inlet so that I can remove it for service if needed (but so far it hasn't been required.) I also included valves so that I can use either the macerator or standard outlet to dump.

This link is to the pump I used. Take a look at the reviews and you'll see mine where I included a list of all valves and fittings used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719KM771

I strongly suggest going with a nice 1-inch flexible hose terminated with cam-lock fittings instead of a regular 3/4 garden hose. The cam-lock fittings make connecting/disconnecting very easy and the tanks drain way faster with through the larger diameter hose.

-John

[Nick5246]

I've installed a permanent macerator. It's great for boondocking so I can pump into the tote tank in the bed of my truck. I installed the pump with a union on its inlet so that I can remove it for service if needed (but so far it hasn't been required.) I also included valves so that I can use either the macerator or standard outlet to dump.

This link is to the pump I used. Take a look at the reviews and you'll see mine where I included a list of all valves and fittings used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719KM771

I strongly suggest going with a nice 1-inch flexible hose terminated with cam-lock fittings instead of a regular 3/4 garden hose. The cam-lock fittings make connecting/disconnecting very easy and the tanks drain way faster with through the larger diameter hose.

-John

Thank you kindly! Would you happen to have any pictures of the install?

[wireslv]

Thank you kindly! Would you happen to have any pictures of the install?

Here you go...

[Nick5246]

Thanks, wireslv!