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  1. #11
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougW9876 View Post
    Just add a little resistance to the one that is raising early, step on it or hold it with a fire poker while hitting the raise button. Once the slower one is up a few inches release the one you are holding and let it raise a few inches and you should be fine to do the tug test.
    Kind of hard to do that when the control panel is on the street side of the trailer and the one that always raises first is the landing gear on the curbside of the trailer. Not sure that my 120 lb wife has enough Ummmph to hold it down or offer enough resistance....LOL
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
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  2. #12
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    Kind of hard to do that when the control panel is on the street side of the trailer and the one that always raises first is the landing gear on the curbside of the trailer. Not sure that my 120 lb wife has enough Ummmph to hold it down or offer enough resistance....LOL
    Oddly enough, that is the way ours works also: the curb side always goes up first. And down first too, I believe.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    Kind of hard to do that when the control panel is on the street side of the trailer and the one that always raises first is the landing gear on the curbside of the trailer. Not sure that my 120 lb wife has enough Ummmph to hold it down or offer enough resistance....LOL
    Well, I suppose if it were me I would let my wife push the button while I hold the jack.
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  4. #14
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    Oddly enough, that is the way ours works also: the curb side always goes up first. And down first too, I believe.
    Yep, if you follow the lines from the valving, it goes to the curbside leg first, then over to the street side...and they are daisy chained or in series (electrical term there). So it makes perfect sense that the curbside goes down first and once it is grounded, the addition resistance causes the street side to go down. Once they are both grounded, the resistance is basically equalized and they move together.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
    2018 Momentum 394M...Heavily Modded!
    2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000 GT+
    Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing

    "If it ain't fast....It ain't Fun"

  5. #15
    Long Hauler
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    Okay, that makes perfect sense. I just never sat down and thought about how the lines were routed. Seems logical the closest cylinder will descend first.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougW9876 View Post
    Well, I suppose if it were me I would let my wife push the button while I hold the jack.
    That's a good thought, but my wife wouldn't be comfortable pushing the button or stepping on the jack! She says a road grader scared her when she was a kid ....... I can testify that she has never recovered from that trauma; anything loud or mechanical is out...... and like others have said, the jack that comes up first is on the curb side while the controller is on the road side.
    2022 Solitude 378-MBS-R, 8k axles and disc brake package, slide toppers, dual panes, 5.5kw Onan, W/D, 3rd AC/heat pump
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    I believe some trailers have a valve you can close to force a cylinder to not operate. I've seen them, on ours, but never messed with them. I also have the B&W hitch, have had one for over 15 years, and I've never done a pull test. If the handle comes back, the hitch is latched. I drove for over a mile one time with the handle not pinned, not on purpose, but does show that it was locked. Just a good example of the excellent design of the B&W hitch.
    We were in Indianapolis last summer. One night stay on the way to Morryde and the UP. We had a problem that delayed our departure to the next stop. I was distracted and didn't pin the latch or attach the breakaway cable!

    Got on 465 and thought "Oh S..t!" I didn't pin the latch! Pulled over on the side of the Interstate and got everything straightened out, risking my life in the process.

    Lesson learned, but the B&W didn't unhitch!! Great product!!

    PS: I don't do a tug test either. Just verify that I'm not high hitched.

  8. #18
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by smullinax View Post
    Good morning,
    Did the first pull with the new truck yesterday, Tucson to Prescott Valley. The Duramax had plenty of power pulling a 17,500 lb rig up the steep grades out of Phoenix. Arrived just in time to unhitch and set up in 60 degrees and steady rain. Haha, just another RV challenge. All good except for an issue while hitching up as below.
    Point is, I want to get in the habit of doing a tug test every time I get ready to move.
    So I hit "hitch height" which raised the middle and rear stabilizers, then used the front jacks to match the height of the new B&W Companion, backed into the hitch, locked the handle, and verified the jaws were around the kingpin. But when I went to raise the front jacks an inch or so off the ground (concrete in this case) to do a proper tug test the passenger side jack came all the way up, then the drivers side. At this point the weight of the RV was on the pickup. The jacks wouldn't operate simultaneously once the weight had been transferred to the pickup. The jacks do operate simultaneously when the RV weight is bearing on them.
    Makes it impossible to do a tug test with the jacks as a "safety net".
    Am I missing something here, is there a problem with the hydraulics, or is this normal?
    Thanks
    You accomplish it like this with asymmetric jacks. When you lower the trailer onto the hitch one side (probably passenger side) will raise up all the way and then the other side begins. Stop at about 1 inch. Now press the buttons to lower the jacks - this time the passenger side will start down and the street side will not move. Stop the passenger side at 1 inch and you're all set to tug away.
    Retired US Army, Retired Florida Department of Law Enforcement
    2021 Solitude 310GK-R
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    And a great wife….

  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper yobigal's Avatar
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    Just a note about tug test.

    2 weeks ago wife and I pulled into a state park and the person at the booth told me the people next to us was having trouble with truck and was late leaving.
    Just shortly after we got set up I heard a loud bang and what sounded like cracking. What happened is the people next to us was finally getting hooked up and when he started to pull away the trailer came loose from truck and drop on his bed rails. Truck was a dually and the RV was a landmark 5th wheel. He put the jacks back down and got it hooked up so not sure if any damaged was done.
    Allen & Denise
    Ford F350 Lariat CC SRW SB 4x4 Diesel
    2018 Solitude 310GK R

  10. #20
    Long Hauler
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    Yes, just goes to show that if you don't hook up correctly accidents can happen. I read of one guy who was having trouble getting hooked up his B&W hitch, as troublefree hitch as you can find, so he pinned the handle back. Got hooked up, and yup you guessed it, didn't unpin the handle and dropped the fifth wheel on his truck. You can make them fool proof, but you can't make them dam-fool proof.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

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