You Asked me for the wiring diagram here it is --adding a bathroom water pump switch

[ForBruce]

Some of you asked me how to add a 3rd switch for the water pump in the bathroom and not loose the switch in the main panel or the one located in the nautilus area.

Note the 4-way switch is a home type that is available at Home Depot or Lowes
the old switch from the nautilus area is now the Bathroom switch.

when wiring pay attention to the part of the 4-way switch that is marked "TOP"

ALSO your wire colors are most likely different.. you have to substitute your own colors in the drawing


The photo Speaks for itself.

ENJOY

[avidcamper]

Love this as we are always stopping and using our rolling bathroom on wheels. Of course you forget to stop at the main panel and turn on the pump. I might do this one.

[ForBruce]

some of you may want to use a home type 3-way switch for the bathroom instead of removing the toggle switch from the nautilus.

Here is the modified wiring diagram

[Riverbug]

Do they not put these switches in because of the phone apps available today? In the past, we always had pump switches in the bathroom and kitchen, but there weren't electronics like we have now.

[traveldawg]

Do they not put these switches in because of the phone apps available today? In the past, we always had pump switches in the bathroom and kitchen, but there weren't electronics like we have now.

I think most trailer manufacturers are chasing a price-point. Anything they can do to lower costs and increase margin is first and foremost in their minds, then comes watching other manufacturer's trends in order to keep pace with them. The lower cost manufactures' models probably don't bother with "keeping up with the Joneses" and stay focused on price-point, low cost.

Based on personal experience and working with one of the GD execs and a Solitude Product Manager when we made a purchase decision I know they are primarily focused on price-point. Features like IS, disc brakes, electronic controls, steps, cord reels, fiberglass rear-caps are not done from a leadership point of view but from a 'we have to keep up with the other guys to stay competitive' point of view.

I've also spent hours with owners/execs with Tiffin Motorhomes (our previous RV). While keeping price in mind their focus was on personally getting customer feedback and monitoring build quality (including warranty repairs) with an eye on being a leader and distinguishing themselves in the sea of RV choices. Of course their price points are quite different than for trailers, so i think they are in a better position to make the small adjustments to add features like dual switches for components, multiple lighting control locations, etc. If they got feedback about adding a switch or something that buyers wanted, they would do that and had the margins to either include it without raising a price or adjusting the price upward while still keeping owners and buyers happy.

It probably isn't fair to compare a $100k (or less trailer) to a $300k+ Class A, but there is absolutely a different manufacturer mindset (and customer base) as the price point goes up. I always thought for trailers there should be a medium point between something like a Solitude and a DRW; but I haven't found one. So we make mods and changes we need/want (and spend the thousands doing it that the manufacturers miss out on).

Anyhow - here is another alternative to adding multiple switches for the water pump......
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...for-Water-Pump This and other mods to make our rig comfy can be found by using the search work "kalakamods" (without the quotes).

[ForBruce]

Anyhow - here is another alternative to adding multiple switches for the water pump......
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...for-Water-Pump This and other mods to make our rig comfy can be found by using the search work "kalakamods" (without the quotes).

While your mod you speak about is interesting with a LATCHING CONTROLLER.($36.75)... the draw back is the fact you had to run all new wires.

Also the cost of that mod $36.75 controller --2 switches at about $7 each pilot lite about $8 and switch plate $5 +wire about $10 which estimated to about $73.....

the mod i started runs only about 8 feet of wire from the bathroom down thru the basement and to the nautilus panel... and the cost ran about $25 dollars.

for the average rv'er my electrical diagram is much easier to follow and parts can be gotten "LOCALLY"

[traveldawg]

While your mod you speak about is interesting with a LATCHING CONTROLLER.($36.75)... the draw back is the fact you had to run all new wires.

Also the cost of that mod $36.75 controller --2 switches at about $7 each pilot lite about $8 and switch plate $5 +wire about $10 which estimated to about $73.....

the mod i started runs only about 8 feet of wire from the bathroom down thru the basement and to the nautilus panel... and the cost ran about $25 dollars.

for the average rv'er my electrical diagram is much easier to follow and parts can be gotten "LOCALLY"

gosh - I wasn't trying to out-do anyone or compare costs or say there is a better way... I simply offered an alternative and showed what I did.

My most primary goal was to mimic what I had in my Class-A with push button switches with lights in them in multiple places.

[ForBruce]

TRAVELDAWG: no offence taken . interesting to see the latching system you made


Here is my final design which i've installed. I have decided to use home type 4-way & 3-way
switches because they are readily available at Lowes and no matter where on the road i may be i can get replacements quickly.

By the way those switches i bought a Lowes have wire clamps so using them with stranded wire is easier. The ones at Home depot , while the same price , were of a lesser quality and no clamps. .

[traveldawg]

I removed the offending, off-topic posts (one of which was mine)......

back to the topic at hand....

[huntindog]

I removed the offending, off-topic posts (one of which was mine)......

back to the topic at hand....

Darn, I missed it. How about a PM?