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  1. #11
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    I would really like to see some info on this as I originally had the same opinion. The more I read about the Hall sensors the more it makes sense that the motors are actually counting the revolutions, and that's what determines the stop points. In and out.

    If the controller was simply measuring the increase in current that would occur when the resistance of the slide occurred, then why are there multiple wires going to the motor? The current could be measured with just the pos and neg 12vdc wires.
    From what I can find, the Hall sensors serve to keep the motors turning at the same speed for synchronization - they do not sense in and out full stop.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper
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    For those that really want to learn the Lippert Schwintek Slide system .. use the link provided here and create a free account with Lippert On Line Learning..
    https://lippertrvowner.learnupon.com/users/sign_in

    Then find the Lippert Schwintek class course and enroll in it.. The course is free, self paced modules with knowledge test after each module session and end of course test. All test can be retaken until you achieve a pass score on each module

    You will learn everything .. and yes.. the feedback of the motor current is sensed via the controller as it monitors amperage feedback from the two slide motors as well as keeping track of the # of turns each motor Hall sensor sees.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Screenshot (466).png  

  3. #13
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    As far as I know, the Schwintek slides stop when they hit resistance (going either way) and the operator releases the switch. There are no sensors.

    Rob
    This seems to be a pretty crude way to set the stopping points. OTOH, it could explain why they may be trying to go too far and moving the trim boards.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

  4. #14
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    This seems to be a pretty crude way to set the stopping points. OTOH, it could explain why they may be trying to go too far and moving the trim boards.
    With the electric and hydraulic ram slides, it's the force of when the slide flange hits the side wall that tells you when to release the switch. "Crude" seems to describe a lot of things involved with RVs (any brand) - starting with the OEM suspension systems.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  5. #15
    Long Hauler
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    ""Crude" seems to describe a lot of things involved with RVs (any brand) - starting with the OEM suspension systems."

    Oh man, you'll get no argument from me on that.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

  6. #16
    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viper02 View Post
    For those that really want to learn the Lippert Schwintek Slide system .. use the link provided here and create a free account with Lippert On Line Learning..
    https://lippertrvowner.learnupon.com/users/sign_in

    Then find the Lippert Schwintek class course and enroll in it.. The course is free, self paced modules with knowledge test after each module session and end of course test. All test can be retaken until you achieve a pass score on each module

    You will learn everything .. and yes.. the feedback of the motor current is sensed via the controller as it monitors amperage feedback from the two slide motors as well as keeping track of the # of turns each motor Hall sensor sees.
    Good to know. This way of doing it made a lot more sense to me vs. it being controlled by Hall sensors. As far as "crude" I agree, but when you stop and think about it to get a tight seal on the slide everytime, then the bottoming out pressure is the best thing to monitor via the increased current drawn by the motor.

    I took that course but need to go back and take it again. You can't know too much about Schwintek systems as it's not a matter of if but when.
    2020 Reflection 273MK

  7. #17
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Bringing back an old thread and to answer a couple of questions I've gotten recently on this forum and text messages from a friend that started having the same problem, NO, I haven't been able to resolve the issue of our bedroom slide outside floor getting wet without using tape to divert rain water over the schwintek slide track. I've tried all kinds of things but nothing has worked and it's always the front (left facing the slide) of the bedroom slide.

    So each time we set up I put tape across the track and front trim, it keeps the outside floor from getting wet, just have to remember to remove the tape before putting the slide in.

    I even had the GD techs look at it once at a rally a long time ago, what they did didn't help either.

    Yes it's a PITB!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5575.jpg  
    Last edited by Steven@147; 03-05-2024 at 08:16 AM.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
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  8. #18
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    I also check to be sure the rig is as level, as can be, so that there isn't an excess of rain water pouring down the front (left facing the slide) verses the rear (right facing the slide) and onto the schwintec track. The rear (right) side of the slide track never seems to leak water into the outside floor.

    Now from the leveling system display, the Angle + 0.1 I think tells me the nose of the RV is just a tad high, but I've never been able to find a explanation of the leveling system Tile / Angle to confirm this. Just like the Tilt -0.1, means the right side of the RV is lower than the left?

    In any event the RV is as level as can be.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5572.jpg  
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper
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    Rather than relying upon sealant maybe trying some type of closed cell foam gasket that would be able to handle the compression and decompression. Or a combination of the two where the sealant seals the track and gasket mating surface but the other side of the gasket is free floating.

    Edit: Another thought is maybe shortening the track enough so the slide flange won't apply pressure when closed.
    2023 Imagine XLS 22MLE
    2023 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost

  10. #20
    Left The Driveway
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    Well howdy again! Thought I would update my post. Since I put tape across the lower schwintek slide track and onto the flat trim piece it has kept the bedroom floor underneath from getting wet during rain storms. Its raining now as I write.

    I ran the tape all the way across the track, pulled the "D Seal Flapper" seal out and put tape behind it as well.
    The tape diverts rain water over the track so it cant get inside the track and run down and into the underneath bedroom floor board. Its Duck tape brand and is very sticky so it stays in place. I guess there is an advantage to the tape, it kind of glows in the dark and keeps me from "bonking" my head on the slide, if I forget to look up.

    Yup putting duck tape over the track is a PITB but it is working to keep the outside underneath floor board dry. I have sealed the area where the track meets the flat trim piece several times. But what happens is, every time we close the slide, it seals so tight when closed it flexes the flat trim piece against the "D Seal" a little, and over time breaks the sealer bond between the track end and the flat trim, and then it will start leaking again into the floor board.. Of course it doesn't help that the schwintek track is hollow inside, it is not a solid piece of aluminum. It acts like a channel for rain water to just run the length of the track. And when it rains, water pours down the flat trim piece like a river from the slide roof. I'm not sure how I am going to permanently fix it from leaking.

    Its not a permanent fix but it keeps the floor dry. And yes don't forget to remove the tape when you close the slide.
    Steve, has this become your permanent solution. My kitchen slide (29RS) has a small "outdoor kitchen" at the aft end. It includes only a small fridge and a TV. Opened up the trailer yesterday and the aft outboard corner section (abouit 10" by 30", long side outboard) was completely soaked and rotted. This evidently happened very quickly as I was in the trailer for several days 1 month ago and didn't notice any issue with three tool bags stored in the place. I haven't found another source of water and will check the slide problem you have. Hoping I only have to replace the small-ish section of subfloor. Thanks in advance for any help.

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