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Thread: Propane Troubleshooting Question
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09-06-2015, 11:51 AM #21
I'd call GD on Tuesday morning (they're closed tomorrow for the holiday). You'll have to e-mail them the pics. They'll probably send you a new valve. That one was clearly defective.
If you need one right away, you can also go to an RV supply store and purchase a new one. Get the whole assembly. Keep the receipt and I'll bet that GD will send you a check for the part.
Here's a link to a replacement from Camping World:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...egulator/24030
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09-06-2015, 03:03 PM #22
That is probably good advice. I think I will just replace the regulator. No need to play with fire. Thanks!
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09-06-2015, 03:44 PM #23Norcalrv1Guest
Good idea
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10-08-2015, 06:08 PM #24
Okay, I surrender! I could sure use some expert troubleshooting advice. As a recap, I get inadequate propane flow from the curb side of the coach, and great flow from the street side. Both tanks are completely full.
Steps I've followed to date:
1. Replaced the pigtail on the curb side - No improvement
2. Replaced the 30psi red regulator on the curb side - No improvement.
3. Switched tanks - No improvement. Still great flow from street side, little or no flow from curb side.
How would you folks proceed to continue trouble-shooting this one? I hate switching parts without a plan, but at least I have some spares now.
Jim
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10-08-2015, 06:27 PM #25Norcalrv1Guest
Jim, tough one. I sprayed carb cleaner into the lines. I took the green fitting off of the tank and sprayed into the line and immediately followed up with compressed air. Who knows how far the carb cleaner went. Bottom line is my gas flow went back to the correct flow rate and it had gotten very low. I don't know what else to suggest.
Rod
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10-09-2015, 02:05 PM #26
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HI Jim,
Let me know what you find when you find it. I believe I am having a similar problem. We were camped at about 8600' with only curb side tank open. Furnace would not heat very well, hot water was terminally slow, and refer beeped that it was out of gas. Regulator/tank switch showed empty tank. I opened up the other tank and left all else the same, got good furnace, hot water and refer. Tank now showed that it had gas. I have pulled the tank before to fill it when it acted like it was empty only to find that it was mostly full. Only happens that I know of on the curb side. Seems to work much better when both tanks are fully open, which I don't like to do. We will be out in it next week and will do some more investigation.
Thanks,
George
George and Connie
Commerce City, CO
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Solitude 380FL
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10-10-2015, 04:47 PM #27
I followed the line from the curb side over to the street side. There is a rubber propane hose that goes into a brass fitting, which goes into the main regulator on the street side. I removed the brass fitting, and I believe the problem might be with this part. I believe it has a back check valve so propane can only travel one way. There is a rubber diaphragm inside the brass fitting. I tried blowing through the fitting and it seemed plugged. I then used my compressor set to 30psi (the same pressure as the red regulator on the curb side), and no air would go through the fitting??? I'm stumped. Here's are some pictures of the fitting. Does anyone have any ideas?
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10-10-2015, 05:13 PM #28
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Maybe an actual propane shop would be able to shed some light on that little bugger
Jim (& Sharon)
2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
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10-10-2015, 11:48 PM #29
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Can you see a spring inside? It should have either a disc, or a ball for the check. Try blowing with air both ways.
You should be able to put a pick ever so carefully inside and move or open the check.Jeff & Lee
Bodie, and Orion, Yellow, and Chocolate Labs
Nyx, Dachshund
2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD Duramax SRW 4WD
2016 Momentum 348M #1966
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10-11-2015, 01:26 AM #30
I tried that. I put about 20psi both ways. No flow either way. I cleaned it with some MAF cleaner and moved the disc in both directions. I reinstalled it, and no gas flow at all now. So I thought I'd pull the one on the other side of the regulator to see if it operated the same way. Lo and behold, the other side is just a 90 degree fitting with no back check valve. According to the regulator manufacturer's website, there should be a back check valve on both side. Check out the picture below. I have found a source for another back check valve for less than $5.00. (But 12 bucks shipping!). But I am curious why there's a back check valve on one inlet side of the regulator, and not the other. I wonder if it was modified for installation purposes at GD? From what I understand, the pigtails themselves also have a back check valve. I'll do a little more experimenting tomorrow and see if I can nail this thing down. I'll also call GD on Monday and see if JD can enlighten me a little.
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