routing the GM camera cable, advice wanted

[AllenV]

I am installing the GM trailering rearview camera on my 2020 Reflection 303RLS. This is the wired camera which supports all the built-in GM trailering video, including “transparent trailer”.

I have it finished except for the “last yard”. Namely routing the cable from the forward storage locker up to the hitch, where the 7-pin cable hangs out.

I am looking for advice from folks who have done this.

What I tried today was to fish a small rope above the curved paneling and then pull the cable through. Unfortunately, the large connector on the cable was dragging insulation and then got stuck a few inched short of the hitch opening. I removed one of the small screws holding he paneling up, to no good effect. So, I pulled the cable out to assess the situation. Now I am stopping to seek advice.

I imagine my next step might be to wrap the cable connector with duct tape to prevent it from grabbing insulation. Then pull out more panel screws to get more room to pull the connector through. But, I don’t want to pull out screws that I can’t get back in once the cable is in place.

What has worked for you?

In the attach image you can see the cable hanging by the green rope. The green rope is also hanging out of the opening by the hitch. That top follows a path above the curved paneling.

[LMagelitz]

I am installing the GM trailering rearview camera on my 2020 Reflection 303RLS. This is the wired camera which supports all the built-in GM trailering video, including “transparent trailer”.

I have it finished except for the “last yard”. Namely routing the cable from the forward storage locker up to the hitch, where the 7-pin cable hangs out.

I am looking for advice from folks who have done this.

What I tried today was to fish a small rope above the curved paneling and then pull the cable through. Unfortunately, the large connector on the cable was dragging insulation and then got stuck a few inched short of the hitch opening. I removed one of the small screws holding he paneling up, to no good effect. So, I pulled the cable out to assess the situation. Now I am stopping to seek advice.

I imagine my next step might be to wrap the cable connector with duct tape to prevent it from grabbing insulation. Then pull out more panel screws to get more room to pull the connector through. But, I don’t want to pull out screws that I can’t get back in once the cable is in place.

What has worked for you?

In the attach image you can see the cable hanging by the green rope. The green rope is also hanging out of the opening by the hitch. That top follows a path above the curved paneling.

I poked a 12ga wire from the front by the hitch back to the front compartment, wrapped the wire around the cable, taped it all up so it wouldn’t snag a lot of insulation, and pulled it back. Worked fine. I ran the rest of it above the coroplast to the back, up the ladder, and over to the camera. I may use some split conduit over it where it goes up the ladder someday. The bigger trick of the job, though, was having to swap the bumper connector with the in-bed connector of the truck.

[AllenV]

I poked a 12ga wire from the front by the hitch back to the front compartment, wrapped the wire around the cable, taped it all up so it wouldn’t snag a lot of insulation, and pulled it back. Worked fine. I ran the rest of it above the coroplast to the back, up the ladder, and over to the camera. I may use some split conduit over it where it goes up the ladder someday. The bigger trick of the job, though, was having to swap the bumper connector with the in-bed connector of the truck.

Thank you, you're confirming that I just need to wrap the connector and pull it thru. I might remove the black piece that holds up the door to make a more of a gap. Do you think that it will reattach easily as far as aligning the existing screw holes are concerned?

The rest is done. I put the camera on a post I made which fits into the hitch receiver and holds the camera at the GM recommended height. I'll get a picture when I am next at the storage lot.

[LMagelitz]

Thank you, you're confirming that I just need to wrap the connector and pull it thru. I might remove the black piece that holds up the door to make a more of a gap. Do you think that it will reattach easily as far as aligning the existing screw holes are concerned?

The rest is done. I put the camera on a post I made which fits into the hitch receiver and holds the camera at the GM recommended height. I'll get a picture when I am next at the storage lot.

I’ve never taken out the screws for that holder, but I would think they would go back ok.

That’s a good idea for a mount. I know GM wants it at a certain height. I’m planning to use the receiver as a bike rack mount tho, so I mounted mine where the Furrion mount was located.

[AllenV]

Checking back in, the camera is installed and works.

Here are photos

The mounting post I made:


I ran the cable along the driver's side frame rail. Attached using stainless steel cable clamps at each of the screws holding the membrane. In the suspension area I was able to route it through the square tube to which the springs are welded.



The truck still uses the original bumper location for the connector.

[AllenV]

here is the test of the camera. This view is the 3-way composite where the rear camera is set on top of the two rearview mirror cameras built into the truck



The driver door was open so that view is down the line of my neighbors

I plan to try the transparent trailer feature. To do that I built a trailer profile claiming the 303RLS is actually a bumper-pull travel trailer. We'll see how well that works. Next time I move the 303 I'll do the calibration needed to finish the set-up.

[AllenV]

And finally, the instrument panel showing the built-in TPMS readouts. All 4 tires are under inflated at the moment so the truck is rather annoyed with me.

[LMagelitz]

Checking back in, the camera is installed and works.

Here are photos

The mounting post I made:


I ran the cable along the driver's side frame rail. Attached using stainless steel cable clamps at each of the screws holding the membrane. In the suspension area I was able to route it through the square tube to which the springs are welded.



The truck still uses the original bumper location for the connector.

Nice looking mount!

You can swap the bumper plug into the bed, and vice versa if you want. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. All you need is a couple of extension coax cables. There is another post on the forum about doing that.