Breakaway Switch Question

[IBEW Sparky]

Does the pin in the breakaway actually pull out of the switch to activate? How hard of a pull does it take?

I switched to LiFePo4 batteries in our 23LDE and reworked the connections on the tongue. I pulled the breakaway cable to verify the brakes still worked and didnt get any movement. I am hesitant to put a real ugga ugga into it in in case I break something…

The first thing my mechanic does when I bring my RV in for Pa State Inspection is pull the breakaway plunger and activate the brakes... he checks both sides of the RV to ensure all tires drag a little bit. Then he has me go through the lights, turn signals, flashers, and brake lights before he takes it to pull the wheels. He also takes a propane sniffer and checks every fitting, valve, T, etc that he can get to.
The very first day I brought my 5er home I was nervous because I'd only ever pulled a TT. Backing up into my driveway was a challenge with me having to pull forward several times. On one of those times I suddenly couldn't move in reverse and I thought my transmission went out on me. Luckily I spotted the brakeaway plunger hanging there with the cable caught on the hitch.... I didn't need that excitement on day #1.
And yes there can be damage caused by leaving the plunger out too long. On my previous TT the steel plunger cable frayed slightly from dragging on the ground so I removed the entire plunger and went into the garage to repair the cable. 15 - 20 minutes later I walked out and saw smoke billowing out from under the TT. I quickly tried putting the plunger in but the plastic switch housing had melted along with the wires running back to the axles and the wires running through the Axel to the opposite side. I quickly disconnected the battery. Luckily I only had to replace all of those wires along with the brakeaway switch... the magnetic solenoids in the wheels were spared... always disconnect the battery if you need to repair your plunger.
*TIP* .. The plunger is a solid block of plastic with a cheap plastic loop on the end that is usually the failure point after years in the sun or pulling the plunger cable out at an angle. I broke one on my first pop-up trailer and couldn't remove the plunger so I drilled a small hole in the front of it and screwed in a small eye-bolt I had in my toolbox. I used it that way for 5 more years and now carry an extra eye-bolt in my toolbox.

[justusdj]

Just give it a quick tug. When you go to put it back in, you will see some keyways that have to lined back up. I actually test mine about once a year - just pull the pin and put the truck in drive.

This is actually a recommended action. I was afraid to pull mine out because I thought I would break it, but turns out you can just put it back in. But definitely a good idea to test the switch, as well as the pin to make sure the plastic hasn't dried up and it just breaks rather than pulling out.

[Wileykid]

I test mine at least every year to make sure it works, if not, if I recall right, the switch is $10-15 and easy to replace. On my last trailer, one year when I did the test, I found out that the switch had somehow fried itself internally, and would not work. Nothing on the outside to show that it was damaged.

A couple of days ago, working on the trailer, I pulled the pin to test it for the new season. First pull, which felt like it was stuck, worked, pulled it again, and the switch did not work. A bunch of contact cleaner, and working the switch four or five times, and it is not sticking and works. Going to keep a close eye on it though.