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  1. #1
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    Inverter Location

    In my Imagine 22MLE it appears that the inverter prep is under the bed against the pass through wall. Is this where Grand Design recommends locating the inverter? Where do most people install it? I'm sure it would be just as easy to mount it on the other side of the wall in the pass through? Anything important to consider with either location? I am hoping to keep the wiring as simple as possible with the batteries remaining on the tongue. Thanks!!
    2024 Imagine XLS 22MLE

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tensch View Post
    In my Imagine 22MLE it appears that the inverter prep is under the bed against the pass through wall. Is this where Grand Design recommends locating the inverter? Where do most people install it? I'm sure it would be just as easy to mount it on the other side of the wall in the pass through? Anything important to consider with either location? I am hoping to keep the wiring as simple as possible with the batteries remaining on the tongue. Thanks!!
    Much depends on how large your Inverter will be.

    Generally speaking, you want to mount your Inverter as close to your batteries as possible. This is because there is a lot of "line loss" when the inverter is operating. The closer the Inverter is to the batteries, the less line loss. The bigger the inverter, the more important it is to co-locate the Inverter and the Batteries.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV View Post
    Much depends on how large your Inverter will be.

    Generally speaking, you want to mount your Inverter as close to your batteries as possible. This is because there is a lot of "line loss" when the inverter is operating. The closer the Inverter is to the batteries, the less line loss. The bigger the inverter, the more important it is to co-locate the Inverter and the Batteries.
    I am looking at a 2000 watt inverter. It would probably be no more than 5 ft of wire? Would increasing the size of the wire from the battery limit the line loss?
    2024 Imagine XLS 22MLE

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    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tensch View Post
    I am looking at a 2000 watt inverter. It would probably be no more than 5 ft of wire? Would increasing the size of the wire from the battery limit the line loss?
    Yes, however, when you are calculating the wire length, you need to calculate the entire length of your wiring, (Both positive and negative wires). Consequently, if your Inverter is 5 feet away, your wire run is 10 feet long.

    If you Google for: "Blue Sea Wire Size Chart" you will find a very nice color chart giving you the appropriate wire size to use for any given amperage of a specific length wire run. This is the best chart I have found to calculate my wire runs.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

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    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV View Post
    Yes, however, when you are calculating the wire length, you need to calculate the entire length of your wiring, (Both positive and negative wires). Consequently, if your Inverter is 5 feet away, your wire run is 10 feet long.
    I never knew this. Guess I always thought that if a load would draw 10 amps, then each lead positive and negative, would be sized appropriately for 10 amperes of current.
    2020 Reflection 273MK

  6. #6
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    I never knew this. Guess I always thought that if a load would draw 10 amps, then each lead positive and negative, would be sized appropriately for 10 amperes of current.
    While the wire might be approately sized, your line loss would be doubled and your circuit might not meet the specifications as designed. I can give you an example; on my prior travel trailer I could never get the brake lights bright enough (incandescent), they always seemed dim. I went in and replaced the ground wires because poor ground is often the cause of dim lights, not the problem. Eventually, I decided that the OEM had undersized the wires for the brake and tail lights and I was getting too much line loss to make the brake lights bright. I solved this problem by replacing the lights with LED brake lights. Since the LED lights require less energy to operate, the new LED lights were nice and BRIGHT.
    Last edited by SolarPoweredRV; 06-07-2024 at 08:20 AM.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper
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    You should also factor in the heat that an inverter can generate. If it were me, I would install an ATS where the inverter prep circuit is and install that inverter as close as possible to the batteries. Since the amperage on a 12v system is ten times greater than a 120v system, it is much more important that you keep the 12v wiring as short as possible.
    2022 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, RamBox, Air Lift 5000 Ultimate Plus, B&W Companion
    2022 Reflection 303RLS, Progressive hardwired EMS, Airborne Sidewinder
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jomani View Post
    You should also factor in the heat that an inverter can generate. If it were me, I would install an ATS where the inverter prep circuit is and install that inverter as close as possible to the batteries. Since the amperage on a 12v system is ten times greater than a 120v system, it is much more important that you keep the 12v wiring as short as possible.
    I like this idea! I hadn't thought about the inverter and ATS being in separate spots. I could put the inverter right on the other side of the front of the trailer in the pass through and would only have a few feet of wire between the batteries and the inverter. Then run wire under the trailer or on the top of the pass through to the other side where the inverter prep wiring is and install the ATS there. So as to wiring, 2/0 wire (or 1/0?) from the battery to the Smart Shunt and the inverter, then 10 AWG over to the ATS?
    2024 Imagine XLS 22MLE

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tensch View Post
    I like this idea! I hadn't thought about the inverter and ATS being in separate spots. I could put the inverter right on the other side of the front of the trailer in the pass through and would only have a few feet of wire between the batteries and the inverter. Then run wire under the trailer or on the top of the pass through to the other side where the inverter prep wiring is and install the ATS there. So as to wiring, 2/0 wire (or 1/0?) from the battery to the Smart Shunt and the inverter, then 10 AWG over to the ATS?

    My Reflection setup sounds similar to your setup. My inverter prep wire is on the wall to the bedroom which is about 5' from the outer wall. I would put the inverter at the outer wall which is about 2' from the battery which is on the tongue.

    From what I understand I would put the ATS on the bedroom wall where the prep wire is and then run wires either across the floor or overhead to the inverter and then to the battery. This all sounds simple, but I am electrically challenged.

    I am looking at getting a LiTime 230ah battery being it will fit on my tongue. I don't know what inverter or ATS to get.
    Raymond, Dee Dee and Sophie (Yorkie)
    2023 Chevrolet 2500HD LT 4X4
    2024 Grand Design Reflection 296RDST

  10. #10
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by tensch View Post
    I like this idea! I hadn't thought about the inverter and ATS being in separate spots. I could put the inverter right on the other side of the front of the trailer in the pass through and would only have a few feet of wire between the batteries and the inverter. Then run wire under the trailer or on the top of the pass through to the other side where the inverter prep wiring is and install the ATS there. So as to wiring, 2/0 wire (or 1/0?) from the battery to the Smart Shunt and the inverter, then 10 AWG over to the ATS?
    The cable size will depend on the inverter you choose. A Renogy 2k inverter for example has a peak output of 4000 watts and 90% efficiency. According to Renogy’s user manual, it has the potential to draw upwards of 190 amps for a short period of time. If you look at the wire size chart that @SolarPoweredRV mentioned, you should go with 2/0 cable. Some will say that is overkill as even Renogy recommends 1/0 cable but I always like to play it safe.
    2022 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, RamBox, Air Lift 5000 Ultimate Plus, B&W Companion
    2022 Reflection 303RLS, Progressive hardwired EMS, Airborne Sidewinder
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