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10-13-2015, 10:33 PM #1NachoFirmeGuest
Those with the 313rlts, how so you level your trailer?
I can't tell if I'm level or not. I do notice the water in the sink pools alittle towards the drivers side but the stabilizing jacks operate together and either fronts or rears. So how can I tilt alittle to the sides?
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10-13-2015, 11:13 PM #2
I think you'll find with any RV, there are lots of different places you can check for "level". In our 337, if the floor is level, the kitchen counter is slightly out. Also, the curb side slide floor is not the same level as the main floor. The bed may tilt one way, while the door swings on it's own the opposite way. We have found that we prefer to have the kitchen counters (and stove) to be the point we measure from, and let everything else fall where it may. So I put a level on the counter and using blocks of wood, I got it zero'd in. Then is was simply a matter of turning the level 90 degrees and leveling front to back. When you have it where you want it, mount some levels on the exterior of the trailer so you can get it back to the same point each time.
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10-14-2015, 04:24 AM #3
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As you stated, they are stabilizers, not levelers.
You need to put blocks under the tires on the low side.Steve- Inventory Manager at Tom Schaeffer's RV, Shoemakersville, PA www.tomschaeffers.com
[email protected]
2011 RAM 3500 SRW Outdoorsman Edition 4X4, 6.7 Cummins--TWEAKED!
2021 Reflection 310RLS
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10-14-2015, 06:11 AM #4
The stabilizers are the last thing you put down, after you are level side-to-side with tire blocks and front to rear with landing gear or tongue jack. And the first thing raised before hooking up to truck. Otherwise, you risk bending the back ones while lifting the front to connect to the truck.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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10-14-2015, 09:35 AM #5
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I use a 2' level vertically on the outside of the trailer.
To the OP. NEVER use your stabs for lifting the TT.
Once you're backed it to your spot, use blocking under the tires on which ever side needs lifting. Either back up or drive forward on the blocking.
Next, chock the wheels, then unhitch the TT.
Now level front to back with the tongue jack.
Once level lower the rear stabs and snug up tight.
I usually set the front a hair low, lower the stabs and snug up, then raise the front to the desired height. This will put a little more pressure on the rear stabs.
It's also handy to have a small level somewhere near the front that you can use for front to back leveling.
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10-14-2015, 10:23 AM #6
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We use these on our 337 to level side-to-side (they also serve as wheel chocks for that side):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...omotive&sr=1-1
I carry a regular carpenter's level in the tool compartment of the trailer. We use two-way radios on the road anyway since my wife follows in the Toyota. We put the level side-to-side on the floor and my wife tells me when the trailer is level as I pull the rig forward. As I take the trailer off the truck, we do the same for fore-and-aft leveling. THEN the rear stabilizers go down and the slides go out. If the ground is uneven side-to-side, you may have to pin the landing gear and rear stabilizers in different holes to get them to hit the ground at the same time. I have it on my list to have some 12" squares of thin plywood cut to shim the last little bit when the peg holes in the stabilizers don't quite get the feet on the ground at exactly the same point.
One of the other Robs...U.S. Army Retired
2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
Full time since 08/2015
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