Winterize ?

[game warden]

End of the season before I store my Travel Trailer away I went to winterize it this weekend and I have some questions about adding the RV antifreeze to the system. I was not able to find a real descriptive process in the owners manual or on the forum. I have a 2016 313 TT and what I did was use the winterization system in the front storage compartment and put about 3 gal of antifreeze thru the outside shower, kitchen island faucets , bathroom faucets, toilet and shower. Also all the traps got some antifreeze poured into them to avoid any freezing that might happen. But I checked the hot water tank and its full of water and no antifreeze in it at all. I have a Atwood hot water heater so what I did was pull the plastic drain plug out and drain the water out and left the plug out until the spring. I blew out the black tank flush with air psi and pushed in some antifreeze so it did not freeze. So here is my question is this correct or do I need to do something else?? just want to be sure so I don`t have a surprised in the spring with broken or leaking pipes ect.

[jbarnes4868]

Sounds like you got it good. Not sure if you have drain lines under your trailer like I do, I removed the plugs from those lines.

[Dave and Monica]

I open the low point drains with the faucets open to drain the water system best I can...don't forget the washer/dryer lines. I also bypass the water heater and then drain and flush it out. I use compressed air to blow out all the lines...even the WH bypass line. Then I draw antifreeze using the winterization selection on the Kantleak and run until I get antifreeze out of every faucet and the toilet. Also add some to all U drains.

I've also added isolating valves where the hot and cold water lines branch to the washer rough-in so I don't have to mess with those lines anymore.

Dave

[Bamaman]

I've always cut the electricity (switch and circuit breaker) to my hot water heater and drained it. Then I've switched the bypass valves where h/w heater won't fill back up.

Then I will put 2 gallons of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank. With the 4 way Kantleak valve, you've got to have a hose stuck into the gallon bottles and the pump will suck out the RV antifreeze. (I used to pour it into a drained freshwater tank on my old trailer.)

I cut on the 12 volt pump and run each faucet until it turns pink or purple. Add some antifreeze to the sink and shower drain pan, and I'm through.

This year, I think I'll start by popping off the caps on the low point drains--then open the faucets and let gravity drain the water in the system. I still no reason to blow out the water lines of a rather fragile water system with an Anderson 4 way valve.

[minnow101]

My first year with the 27rl. Thought I'd try using air to blow our the lines. Always have just used RV antifreeze on our previous RV's. Got all said and done and got cold feet and decided to add antifreeze as a final precaution. I was very surprised to see how much water was still remaining in the system when I went around to all the fixtures to run antifreeze. I think the complexity of the plumbing system with water hoses running every which way off of the KantLeak valve makes it impossible to remove all water from the system using air alone.

[Cate&Rob]

I don't think air alone will get the water out of the pump and its associated lines.

The only thing that I would add to what has been described here, is that after the water heater is drained, and the rest of the system filled with antifreeze, I close the water heater bypass briefly until antifreeze comes out the open water heater drain. There is still quite a bit of water in there after it stops gravity draining.

Rob

[minnow101]

I don't think air alone will get the water out of the pump and its associated lines...Rob

Yeah I think I kinda just said that.

[james quinn]

End of the season before I store my Travel Trailer away I went to winterize it this weekend and I have some questions about adding the RV antifreeze to the system. I was not able to find a real descriptive process in the owners manual or on the forum. I have a 2016 313 TT and what I did was use the winterization system in the front storage compartment and put about 3 gal of antifreeze thru the outside shower, kitchen island faucets , bathroom faucets, toilet and shower. Also all the traps got some antifreeze poured into them to avoid any freezing that might happen. But I checked the hot water tank and its full of water and no antifreeze in it at all. I have a Atwood hot water heater so what I did was pull the plastic drain plug out and drain the water out and left the plug out until the spring. I blew out the black tank flush with air psi and pushed in some antifreeze so it did not freeze. So here is my question is this correct or do I need to do something else?? just want to be sure so I don`t have a surprised in the spring with broken or leaking pipes ect.

On my 313 what I did for the washer lines is use a short piece of hose threaded to faucets and directed into grey tank inlet beside faucets. Blow or put antifreeze thru as you would other fixtures

[dihtn1]

[QUOTE=

I've also added isolating valves where the hot and cold water lines branch to the washer rough-in so I don't have to mess with those lines anymore.

Dave[/QUOTE]

Dave-do you have a photo of that? Would like to see what you mean. Also, by turning the proper valve on the Kantleak setup, that is how you bypass the water heater, correct? One more question, is there a valve behind the screen where the fresh water fill is that needs to have pressure released?

Thanks.

[Racerx]

I would think you all have one but did not see where anyone removed the water filter prior to winterizing. Not a major problem, but if not removed make sure you remove it and replace in the Spring when dewinterizing.

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