Replace Kant-Leak with Nautilus P1

[ljlund66]

Has anyone with the Kant-Leak valve system replaced theirs with the Nautilus P1 and if so, how tough of a job is it? I'm thinking this might be the one mod that would make our 323 perfect!

[minnow101]

I haven't read of anyone doing this but would also be interested in the details. From comparing the 2 systems, it would appear at first blush that a lot of re-plumbing of lines would need to be done.

[LCBoyer]

In my opinion it would be trouble than worth. If mine fails, I will replace with new Kantleak or a couple gate valves

[Dave and Monica]

Maybe my opinion only but I think that the KantLeak system can be made leak free...either switch the plastic tee to a brass one or tape/dope the existing connections along with replacing the selector valve stem. The valve stem will be to be removed periodically and lubricated with plumbers grease. The Nautilus P1 system has about twice the number of connections...twice the number of potential leaks.

It's possible to switch if you desire but you'd need to determine the existing piping system to be able to adapt it to a Nautilus panel.

Dave

[WhittleBurner]

We have not had any trouble from our kantleak system as yet. Still waiting. I don't think GD has been using the nautilus system long enough yet to know if it will be trouble free. Could end up being worse than the kantleak.

[Cate&Rob]

The design of the Anderson system is actually very clever. A single four position valve plus a water heater bypass.
Choosing to save a few cents with a plastic rather than a brass T and installing cartridges without all their O rings . . . poor production choices / process.

The possibility of a leaking connection at one of the hose connections done by GDRV is probably no different with either control panel.
The possibility of a connection working loose during travel is always there with any system.

Once the plastic T is replaced with a brass one, and a cartridge with all its O rings in place is installed, the system will operate as designed.
Although Anderson says this is not necessary, I always release any water pressure from the system and always turn the valve clockwise.

I can't see a need to replace a system that now works properly. (Just my opinion)

Rob

[ljlund66]

Thanks for the replies so far. Perhaps I should add that once I tightened up a couple of connections in the back, I've had no leaks. What I'm not a fan of is having the panel replaced and replacing the cartridge on a unit that's not even a year old, and only had 20 or so days of use. Yes, the cartridge is easy enough to replace, and I'll likely get another spare or two for the next time it fails. And yes, I also release any water pressure and turn the valve clockwise. Just wondering if there's a solution that would be lower maintenance overall and not require having to order spare parts every couple of months.

[Cate&Rob]

I'm still on my first valve cartridge. I have removed, inspected, lubed and reinstalled it once. I do have a spare on hand .
This is across two years of ownership and 8 months of use. (two snowbird winters).
In the grand scheme of RV problems and maintenance . . . this is definitely at the lower/easier end.

Rob

[minnow101]

I'm still on my first valve cartridge. I have removed, inspected, lubed and reinstalled it once. I do have a spare on hand .
This is across two years of ownership and 8 months of use. (two snowbird winters).
In the grand scheme of RV problems and maintenance . . . this is definitely at the lower/easier end.

Rob

Unless your valve lets loose at midnight and fills your basement with water which you don't discover until a neighbor bangs on your door at 7 am.

[Cate&Rob]

Unless your valve lets loose at midnight and fills your basement with water which you don't discover until a neighbor bangs on your door at 7 am.

Thats what my basement and underbelly water alarms are for . . .

The Kantleak assembly leaks are always drips. The cartridge failure usually directs city water to the fresh water tank which eventually comes out the tank overflow. If a connection blows apart and floods the basement, this is not likely to be the fault of either the Kantleak or the Nautilus panel.

Rob