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Thread: Hub play?

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    Seasoned Camper zac808's Avatar
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    Hub play?

    I just finished replacing my outboard bearings. The first three spindles, I tightened the nut then backed it off until it hit the first castellation (usually not much). On the last hub I decided to try Lipperts method and back off 1/4 turn to next castellation. This created some some play between the hub and axle. So I tried my original method which turned out to be zero play. Is it okay to have a little play? Is for the metal to expand when hot? Is no play better than play?

    Cent frum my sell phone so pleeze excuse my spelling and grahmar.
    Zac and Charlene
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    2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT- EFI Live, MBRP 4" exhaust, LBZ mouthpiece, AirLift Airbags, RDS 60G combo aux tank, and B&W turnover/Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel

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    A little play is OK, maybe even preferable. When you look at the bearings, the rollers should not be end-loaded, as you said, they will expand slightly with miles and heat. Having 40 plus years in automotive, I have replaced, repacked, and adjusted a whole lot of tapered roller bearings. We have identical Reflections!
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    I have many years experience adjusting wheel bearings on cars, trucks and trailers. I have come to the conclusion that the manufacturers spec the adjustment on the loose side, perhaps to avoid any possibility of bearing being too tight. My method for years has been to adjust them so there is barely perceptible end play, and have never had a failure. Having said that, I have often tried the manufacturers method which seems to be shockingly loose.

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    Seasoned Camper
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    I was a certified ASE master tech for 25+ years. I was trained years ago to tighten the the bearing nut to the specific end torque, then back off the nut a half a turn and then hand tighten the nut all the while while you were turning the hub assembly. Then line up the key way by backing off the nut.

    I have never had a failure doing this technique. Besides doing vehicles, I did a number of trailers over the years. If I had a little movement that was fine, but never a whole lot as once the bearings seat under load they will loosen slightly doing the adjustment the way I was trained. (Also, I never retightened a loose bearing without disassembly, inspection, repacking, and then tightening the assembly back up. That way I knew for absolute sure that there wasn't an issue.)

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    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    I have always understood Rick's process to be correct. It is important to first torque the nut to where everything is compressed and aligned. It is possible (for example) that a new bearing race was not fully seated when it was installed. Then back off and tighten by feel to free moving but zero play.

    Rob
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    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    I too was a mechanic for more than 20 years and rick is absolutely correct. With freshly packed bearings they need to be preseated. While spinning the hub I will tighten the nut till I feel the pressure then back off till its loose then do the same thing in the other direction. Then you tighten the nut up by hand. If the cotter pin hole doesn't line up back the nut off till it does line up. Never tighten it to get it to line up.
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    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Time for a story . . . my first car (a well used Chevrolet Corvair) had wobbly front wheels. A friend of my Dad's offered to help, so I showed up with my car, my service manual and my brand new torque wrench. First question (looking at the torque wrench) . . . what are you going to do with that ?? He showed me the sequence described by Rick and confirmed by Gary . . . that was 45 years ago . . . it still works .

    Rob
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    Seasoned Camper Ivan S854's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickTulsa View Post
    I was a certified ASE master tech for 25+ years. I was trained years ago to tighten the the bearing nut to the specific end torque, then back off the nut a half a turn and then hand tighten the nut all the while while you were turning the hub assembly. Then line up the key way by backing off the nut.
    So... What is the correct torque? Where can I find the info for my particular trailer/axles?
    2005 Chevrolet 2500HD D/A CC LB 4WD
    2016 Reflection 303RLS
    VIN: 573FR332XG3305974
    2007 Ural GearUp Arctic

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    I am sure that Rick will give us a number, and it will involve the concept that torquing the spindle nut is to make sure that the bearings are truly seated and bottomed out. You do not want to roll down the road in this condition, the bearings will overheat and destroy themselves quickly. They need a little space for the grease to lubricate the rollers. I do not have any reference materials with me, but remembering similar experiences that Rick related in his excellent description, somewhere in the 25-30 ft. lb. range is what I remember from my teaching days at Denver Automotive and Diesel College. Great question Ivan!
    AKA Steve and Lynne
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    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Here's the LCI video link on this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWzoYdHUDOM The nut/bearing tightening process starts at about the 5 minute mark.

    Rob--your Corvair story was a hoot.....I can just visualize the setting !

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
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