Kant Leak valve leaking

[TucsonJim]

Okay, okay, okay! I will stay with the Kant-leak since it's held up for 2-1/2 years! BTW, I can't possibly see how you could spring a leak with this:



My water alarm is installed and waiting......

Jim

[steve gravelle]

I think you might have the only Kantleak valve that has held up! We are still looking for the one owner that HAS NOT had issues with wheel bearing seals!

[steve gravelle]

Maybe there needs to be a sensor inside brake drums to detect runny grease, or heavy oil!

[minnow101]

Actually another member here complely removed the KantLeak and installed his own system using common plumbing fixtures available at any big box home improvement store. He provided info. on how anyone can do it. That to me is a better way to go. Using valves and connectors designed for stick built homes that have greater water pressure and from known nationally recognized manufacturers is generally better than a cheaply built RV spec'd piece of ..... Having had 2 separate leaks with the KantLeak ("O" ring failure and leaking at the plastic "T" fitting, I have no confidence in this system unlike a few others. It's just a matter of time before those "O" rigs fail again.

[offtohavasu]

Having had a 350M with the Kantleak valve (and no problems) and currently a 397TH with a Nautilus I prefer the Kantleak. This will probably sound silly, but with the Kantleak it is easy to understand what is going on or happening from a water flow standpoint. With the Nautilus it is not self explanatory, the documentation is horrible, just set the handles to this when you want to do that.

I'm a scuba diver and I don't do "trust me" dives. A "trust me" dive is just following a dive partner without the proper training, equipment or understanding and hoping everything turns out right. Turning four handles to a certain position without an explanation of what each handle does feels like a "trust me" dive. At least with the Kantleak the knobs/handles were labeled and it is obvious what each handle is doing.

They're just diverter valves. Turn certain combination of the valves changes the flow of water. Not really a "trust me" thing, just understanding what the valves do. The custom built one a user put up on her is almost the same thing (he designed prior to the P1).

[Gyro Gearloose]

Chuck (Clsfly) is correct. Bashing Anderson for "Kantleak Valve failures" that are really leaks in the plumbing connections done by GDRV, is not a fair condemnation of this supplier. Yes, for sure, they have had failures internal to their valve. The Kantleak single valve is far less complex to operate than the Nautilus multi-valve system. I (for one) am quite happy with my Kantleak valve arrangement.

Rob

Agreed, My Kantleak issues I think were caused by GDRV QC issues. During the repair on mine I have hopefully mitigated a possible leak of my shower on Reflection 303 RLS.

I had a T leak on the hot water bypass side. I think it was caused by the hose that goes to the center of the T was hard against the shower drain trap.



3 tries to get if fixed. 1) tried Teflon paste to seal leak, worked for that leak but started leaking on the center of the T fitting. 2) talked to Anderson and a replacement T not available, they suggested GDRV or buying a new unit (I'm out of warranty, they did send me a new 4 way valve insert NC). I got a PVC T from Homedepot sanded off about 1/16" off both ends so same length as old T. 3) Started leaking on other side of T. Probably my fault being conservative on tightening the plastic fittings. Tightened a bit more, now no leaks.

When doing this I replaced the plastic PEX to 1/2"NPT that goes into the T with brass and shortened tubing so plastic T at other end was not jammed into shower drain. Now the proud owner of pricey PEX clamp tool and some blue tubing. I am really good at dis-assembly and assembly now.

Also had to fix the switch on the KantLeak panel for LED lights for under bedroom probably caused be the leak.




While under there found out why heater was not putting out heat like I thought it should. The heater duct interface for the large hose was hanging down because someone set the thing in sawdust so the aluminum tape did not stick to duck.




Notice how the hole in the duct is much smaller than the duct interface. Should these be the same size?


Just couldn't catch a break! Every time I open something up it seems like I find something that needs attention. I hope they take all this input and apply it towards perfection.

BTW, I have used Anderson Brass valves on few different design projects and they have been great.

Pat

[offtohavasu]

Agreed, My Kantleak issues I think were caused by GDRV QC issues. During the repair on mine I have hopefully mitigated a possible leak of my shower on Reflection 303 RLS.

I had a T leak on the hot water bypass side. I think it was caused by the hose that goes to the center of the T was hard against the shower drain trap.



3 tries to get if fixed. 1) tried Teflon paste to seal leak, worked for that leak but started leaking on the center of the T fitting. 2) talked to Anderson and a replacement T not available, they suggested GDRV or buying a new unit (I'm out of warranty, they did send me a new 4 way valve insert NC). I got a PVC T from Homedepot sanded off about 1/16" off both ends so same length as old T. 3) Started leaking on other side of T. Probably my fault being conservative on tightening the plastic fittings. Tightened a bit more, now no leaks.

When doing this I replaced the plastic PEX to 1/2"NPT that goes into the T with brass and shortened tubing so plastic T at other end was not jammed into shower drain. Now the proud owner of pricey PEX clamp tool and some blue tubing. I am really good at dis-assembly and assembly now.

Also had to fix the switch on the KantLeak panel for LED lights for under bedroom probably caused be the leak.




While under there found out why heater was not putting out heat like I thought it should. The heater duct interface for the large hose was hanging down because someone set the thing in sawdust so the aluminum tape did not stick to duck.




Notice how the hole in the duct is much smaller than the duct interface. Should these be the same size?


Just couldn't catch a break! Every time I open something up it seems like I find something that needs attention. I hope they take all this input and apply it towards perfection.

BTW, I have used Anderson Brass valves on few different design projects and they have been great.

Pat

If you're in there to repair that, I'd change that out and put a starter collar on there...Just my opinion.

[Gyro Gearloose]

If you're in there to repair that, I'd change that out and put a starter collar on there...Just my opinion.

Curtis,

Good input... I just cleaned everything off (replaced tape) and taped it back up. I was not sure if the hole was that size for a reason (tuning air flow) or what. Maybe a project at a later date. Not to much room to move in there to work with tin snips, maybe a nibbler will work. I need to investigate further to see if that is the output hose or the return hose (larger hose so I suspect return).

[Paul & Deb]

I am one who has not had any issues with either the Kantleak or the overall plumbing in general. I have carried a spare valve insert, provided free of charge from Anderson, for a year now but haven't needed it. I do think I may install some moisture monitors, like so many others have, but only because I always need something to do

Wasn't so lucky on the leaking seals front though.

[Clsfly]

I downloaded the installation doc for the Nautilus system and after reviewing it I think I'll stick with the Kantleak also. It is not a plug and play fix, a total PEX tubing removal and replumb nightmare, more valves (5 vs. 3) that look like they are all plastic.
Tried to attach the PDF but need to research how to do that.