Kant Leak valve leaking

[golfnut]

I have a 2014 Grand Designs Momentum 355TH. Both of the Kant leak valves are leaking. The first one last Fall and now the main valve which the fresh water goes into is leaking. Filled up the whole underbelly of the trailer so now that whole cover has to be replaced. Was wondering if anyone else out there has had this same problem. Unfortunately, I'm 3 months past warranty. However, Dave Hilliker with GD is going to send me the parts I need..

[TucsonJim]

This has been a frequent problem and GD resolved it by going to the Nautilus system last year. I try to avoid the full underbelly by putting enough water in the tank, and then using the pump to get my water. I keep the water hose shut off except to fill the fresh tank when needed.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

golfnut,

As TucsonJim says, this is a much discussed issue on this forum. When a Kantleak valve "fails", it usually sends water to somewhere unintended. Within the valve assembly, there is sometimes a drip type leak into the storage area. "Filling up the whole underbelly" sounds more like a failed connection within the plumbing system . . . maybe a connection to the Kantleak valve, but there are many other possibilities. Use the search tool in the upper right corner on "Kantleak" to find the many previous discussions on this topic.

Rob

[golfnut]

This has been a frequent problem and GD resolved it by going to the Nautilus system last year. I try to avoid the full underbelly by putting enough water in the tank, and then using the pump to get my water. I keep the water hose shut off except to fill the fresh tank when needed.

Jim

That's exactly what I did. The bottom of the trailer filled up from the leaking valve. Didn't notice it until the cover started sagging.

[golfnut]

Thanks for all who responded. Got the new valve and that stopped the leak. GD is sending me a new cover for underneath the trailer. I guess they figure not charging me is either good public relations or an admission of guilt insofar as admitting that the kantleak valves are not very good. So far, the new valve has not leaked. I have avoided putting anything back in the storage area as I am checking it about every hour it seems to make sure it's not going to leak.
k

[C&H Conner]

Might put some water monitor/alarms in the belly and behind the wall when you put it all back together. Usually let's you know in time so the full belly can be avoided.

You can get them at Home Depot, Lowes and Amazon.

[Clsfly]

Having been the victim of a leak at the back of the Kantleak panel & Kantleak valve failure Rob is correct; the leaks associated with the panel are actually on GD since they connect that maze of tubing to the Anderson panel/valves and apparently don't know how to tighten the threaded fittings. The only way to figure it out is to remove the baggage compartment wall (only a few screws) so you can see/feel for a leak. The Kantleak valve failure diverts water to the fresh water holding tank but doesn't leak any water out as the O-rings fail inside the main valve itself. Allot of discussion about this on the forum and bashing Anderson Brass for leaks in the basement which GD actually assembles. Not defending Anderson as the Kantleak system is a POS, wish I had the Nautilus system so I don't have to carry extra parts and the worry of it failing again.

[TucsonJim]

I wonder if GD would be willing to switch us over to the Nautilus system at the rally. I'm well outside of the warranty, and even though I've not had a problem with my Kant Leak valve (knock on wood), I'd happily pay to have mine replaced with the latest and greatest.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

Having been the victim of a leak at the back of the Kantleak panel & Kantleak valve failure Rob is correct; the leaks associated with the panel are actually on GD since they connect that maze of tubing to the Anderson panel/valves and apparently don't know how to tighten the threaded fittings. The only way to figure it out is to remove the baggage compartment wall (only a few screws) so you can see/feel for a leak. The Kantleak valve failure diverts water to the fresh water holding tank but doesn't leak any water out as the O-rings fail inside the main valve itself. Allot of discussion about this on the forum and bashing Anderson Brass for leaks in the basement which GD actually assembles. Not defending Anderson as the Kantleak system is a POS, wish I had the Nautilus system so I don't have to carry extra parts and the worry of it failing again.

Chuck (Clsfly) is correct. Bashing Anderson for "Kantleak Valve failures" that are really leaks in the plumbing connections done by GDRV, is not a fair condemnation of this supplier. Yes, for sure, they have had failures internal to their valve. The Kantleak single valve is far less complex to operate than the Nautilus multi-valve system. I (for one) am quite happy with my Kantleak valve arrangement.

Rob

[carnolddsm]

Having had a 350M with the Kantleak valve (and no problems) and currently a 397TH with a Nautilus I prefer the Kantleak. This will probably sound silly, but with the Kantleak it is easy to understand what is going on or happening from a water flow standpoint. With the Nautilus it is not self explanatory, the documentation is horrible, just set the handles to this when you want to do that.

I'm a scuba diver and I don't do "trust me" dives. A "trust me" dive is just following a dive partner without the proper training, equipment or understanding and hoping everything turns out right. Turning four handles to a certain position without an explanation of what each handle does feels like a "trust me" dive. At least with the Kantleak the knobs/handles were labeled and it is obvious what each handle is doing.