part 2

I then drilled the ¼” pilot hole out thru the target, thru the void and thru the exterior wall.
Put dryer back in place, went outside and put the pilot bit in from the outside and drilled a small divot into the side of dryer.
This might be the right time to get into detail about what was going to happen to the dryer. So when Allen and I were talking, I was actually looking at my dryer, so everything he was telling me, I was confirming on my end. The dryer has a plastic exhaust port twist locked to the metal back of dryer and secured with a screw. I was told to remove that screw, and twist out the plastic exhaust port. Just inside would be a metal tube about 18" long that I would pull out the back of the dryer. Then I could look inside and see where that metal tube was attached, and I’ll call that the nozzle below the lint trap. And that nozzle was where I should attach my adapter with the 3” flex clamped onto the adapter. My plastic 4 to 3 adapter needed to be kerfed all around the 4” end so that it would expand over the dryer’s nozzle. I used some plastic epoxy to cement the adapter in place. The reason we went with 3” flex instead of 4” was to assure enough clearance between the spinning dryer drum, the motor and pulley and drive belt. I know some of you will say that I’ve restricted the air flow and that might cause problems. But Allen had done his modification several years ago and had no problems with his dryer. In fact he transferred his units into their new GD just recently. It’s still going strong. Plus at this point, this seemed the only way I was going to get the dryer running.
So to continue with the modifications, next I’d have to cut a hole in the side of the dryer to pull the flex out of. That hole would need to be in the right place….
I went back inside and pulled the dryer out and onto the floor, used that previously cut divot as center of the 4.25” hole and cut that hole. Then taped over sharp edges of the metal wall. Then glued the reducer over the dryer’s nozzle that is just below the lint trap area. I had already attached the 3” flex to the reducer and clamped it on. Once that glue set, I used some of that aluminum duct tape to seal around that seam. Just because I’m an “over builder”. Then routed the 3” flex to point out that new hole I’d cut. I also taped the flex to the floor of the dryer in an attempt to keep it from moving about and maybe touching the drum or motor or belt. The dryer modification is done.
Then I installed the stacking kit brackets on top of the washer.
Now it was time to cut the 4.25” hole thru the 5W. I started from inside the closet cutting thru the paneling and then put the hole saw into the void and started the cut thru that paneling and the aluminum radiant barrier and into the Styrofoam. I went about ¼" deep. I then went outside and cut into the gelcoat, thru the paneling, thru the Styrofoam and finished up by removing the circle of scrap. One note about that process, or really about the ¼” pilot hole , I had to make that first ¼ “ hole as close to perpendicular to the exterior wall as possible. I started at the target on the inside of the closet, but really was lining up my drill to punch the hole straight into the exterior wall. The closet wall is at an angle so that was tricky. If you follow these hints, all I can say is make sure you understand that to make the vent pipe with the flapper valve seat correctly on the outside of the 5W, you need to take care to make that pilot hole (and the 4.25” hole) perpendicular to the exterior wall.
Now that I had the big ole vent hole cut, it was time to install the dryer on top of the washer. It tips into the rear bracket and sets down just behind the front bracket so once you screw it in place the dryer can’t tip forward. Make sure you plug it into the electrical outlet before you set it in place.
I then reached into the hole from outside and pulled some of the 3” flex into the big 4.25” hole. (Please note: I did not have the dryer vent kit from Amazon the day that I measured for the hole saw. I measured a dryer vent that had been purchased at Home Depot and it gave me the 4.25” diameter. The one I got from Amazon turned out to be 4”. So, IF you are going to install one of those, get a 4” hole saw.) Pull enough in there so that when you next slide in the vent collar and flapper valve that the 3” extends into it about half way. Then stuff the space around the 3” with some fiberglass insulation, attach the flapper valve to the wall with 4 screws, and then squirt a bead silicone over that insulation. Seal the tube and flapper valve with clear silicone sealer, then install your brown/black plastic cover, and you’re done.

I now have a 4.25” hole saw for sale. Slightly used.