Bedroom and underbelly get too hot

[Ron burgundy]

So in our 349M I am noticing that the majority (easily 80% if not more) of the heat from the furnace ends up in the bathroom, bedroom, and underbelly. In an attempt to increase heat in the main cabin and garage I blocked those vents and the heat continued to head into the underbelly and pressure did not increase at all in the main or garage vents.

I did this to see if closeable vents would be a solution and it doesn't seem like it...from my searching it seems like this was always responded to by inspecting the coach and potentially adjusting the routing of the hvac.

Our last 5ver was similar, but definitely not this bad. Typical to see 74 in the bedroom, 64 at the thermostat at the stairs, and mis 50,s in the garage...this is with all doors open and it makes for quite the ti,e when we are sweating our way through the night to prevent our daughter from freezing

On a side note I may be,missing something but I cannot seem to post anywhere but here, otherwise this would have landed in the momentum section.

Thanks!!

[arhayes]

Sounds like you may have some blockage in the ducting. You may need to take down basement walls to see what's going on.


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[Sirsea]

Sounds like a duct may have come loose and is dumping hot air into the underbelly. It's fairly simple to remove the wall panels in the basement and check the ducts.

[Ron burgundy]

Ok...any idea what tools are needed for the sides? Not at the trailer for the next few days but want to take a look when I head camping.

Thanks!

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[arhayes]

My basement walls are installed with the standard Robertson head screw. If you don't have the driver, you can careful use a Phillips screwdriver to remove them. As I recall, my walls were installed with 4 screws on each side and 4 attaching them together. I replaced the walls being screwed to each other with door hinges so I can quickly remove walls when needed. Makes it nice as I just had to fix a leak in my shower drain yesterday and getting access is a simple matter of removing 4 hinge pins.


Alan

[Sirsea]

Most of the screws need a #2 square head bit.

[Cate&Rob]

Most of the screws need a #2 square head bit.

Nearly every fastener on your GDRV product is a #2 square drive. Canadians will know these as "Robertson" but they are still relatively unknown in the US. See the link on post #8 of this older thread.
http://www.mygrandrv.com/for...ight=Robertson

Rob

[carnolddsm]

In running down a furnace issue, found a way to balance heat without closing vents or installing dampers. From the inside/back (outside is the front) there are three vents, and two vents on the right. The hottest air come the left most vent on the back, the coolest and least volume from the most forward vent on the right. Switch the bedroom to one of the cooler vents.

[RamGunner]

Nearly every fastener on your GDRV product is a #2 square drive. Canadians will know these as "Robertson" but they are still relatively unknown in the US. See the link on post #8 of this older thread.
http://www.mygrandrv.com/for...ight=Robertson

Rob

I discovered those in the 90's, and I love them. The screws tend to stay on the bit as you drive them in very easily. I started using them to install punch blocks and other items onto backboards in data and telecom closets. Since they weren't common, I knew what was my work, and it made it a little more difficult for anyone to mess with what I put in. I even had a company I had once worked for call me up years later and ask what they were so they could remove some stuff from the wall and take it when them when they moved.

ETA - If you aren't going to use a real security bit, then they make a good option for installing alarm system components (including magnetic contacts).

[orbiker]

Here is a few pics inside my 380TH.

I posted this a while back.


Our rig's furnace is in the front by the storage area. I looked in there behind the wall and found the venting to a few places kinked.
Before


After


before


after