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Thread: Suspension and axles
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02-13-2017, 08:17 PM #21
The grease hole is only to get the grease into the bushing and as uniformly distributed as possible. Watch for it to squeeze out all around the end of the bushing. The grease hole should be located at the 3 or 9 position where there is minimal load between the bolt and the bushing. I learned this from a GDRV tech at the Rally, but also read it in LCI literature somewhere.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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02-13-2017, 08:38 PM #22
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Follow all except the "uniformly distributed". If the grease won't pump in with the hole at 6 o'clock, how does the grease get to the load bearing 6 o'clock position when being pumped in from other positions? Just not getting this thru my thick head.
2016 F350 4X4 CC SB SRW 6.7 Powerstroke with OEM 5th Wheel and Gooseneck Prep Package
Bakflip G2 Bed Cover
Andersen Ultimate Aluminum Fifth Wheel Hitch
2017 Reflection 337RLS
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02-13-2017, 09:01 PM #23
If you can get the grease pumped into the bushing, it will distribute itself all around the bolt and will dramatically reduce wear. It only takes an almost invisible layer of grease to do this. The problem is that if the hole ends up at the 12 or 6 position, you might not be able to get any grease through the hole and into the space between the bushing and the bolt.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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02-13-2017, 09:35 PM #24
Rob - I've also noted that a few owners have said they "used a wrench to turn the bolt so it would take grease". They need to understand that these bolts have splines on the shaft that are designed to keep them from rotating. Using brute force to rotate them defeats the purpose. If they need to rotate a bolt, they need to attach a nut to the end of the threads and firmly tap it out of the housing until the splines are free. Then they need to rotate the bolt to the 9:00 or 3:00 position and reseat it so the spines are pulled back into the housing. Finally, if a person takes the nut off the bolt, they either need to replace the nut with another nylon locking nut or use Loctite to keep it from backing off. The OEM nuts are nylon locking, and are designed for one time use only.
Edit: Added photo showing splines (circled in red)
JimLast edited by TucsonJim; 02-13-2017 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Added Photo
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02-13-2017, 09:37 PM #25
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Got it. Thanks for the full explanation.
Bill2016 F350 4X4 CC SB SRW 6.7 Powerstroke with OEM 5th Wheel and Gooseneck Prep Package
Bakflip G2 Bed Cover
Andersen Ultimate Aluminum Fifth Wheel Hitch
2017 Reflection 337RLS
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02-13-2017, 09:41 PM #26
x2 on all Jim's advice.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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02-13-2017, 09:48 PM #27
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I installed a Dexter EZ Flex and wet bolt set on our previous 5th wheel and the instructions specifically said to position the grease holes at 9 and 3 o'clock. The Dexter bolts were also splined so they wouldn't rotate after they have been installed.
Nick and Nancy
Abbotsford BC
2011 Ram 3500
2015 Reflection 303RLs
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02-14-2017, 06:00 AM #28
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All,
Thanks all for the wet bolt hole location classes ( I never saw anything online in Lci docs before). I learned at the school of hard knocks after I assembled a couple with the hole at at 6 O'clock (the way they came from factory) and could not get grease in. Had to take shackles off and change, was not happy.
PatPat&Marlene Gyrogearloose - 2010 Itasca Meridian 34y - 6.7 w/Allison 6spd - Jeep Wrangler Rubicon - previous Reflection 303RLS
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02-14-2017, 08:10 AM #29
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A note on lock nuts. Back in the day I was a licensed aircraft mechanic. It was standard practice to re use lock nuts as long as there was enough resistance that they couldn't be hand tightened. If you can't turn it by hand, it isn't going to vibrate lose.
Nick and Nancy
Abbotsford BC
2011 Ram 3500
2015 Reflection 303RLs
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02-14-2017, 09:37 AM #30
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I sincerely apologize for putting in my two cents worth here, but I'm *hoping* it will be of benefit.
If you are using NyLocks (in other applications), I would strongly urge you to use fine thread bolts and NyLock nuts if using 1/2" dia. or up. In course thread use, the friction generated by the course threads of the nut and bolt are sufficient enough for the nylon in the nut to change states - no...not from Indiana to Texas. The nylon will go from the solid to the liquid state (sorry - geek Engineer coming out). The result is that the NyLock nut will seize. At that point you are screwed (bolted??) and an angle grinder is your friend (don't ask me how I know). Stainless steel fasteners are the absolute worse for doing this. Yes - you see boat manufacturers use them, but they generally are using small diameter bolts where the friction temperature won't be high enough to cause melting. In large diameter bolt applications, the general practice is to use fine thread - for instance, outboard engine transom mounting hardware. Using an air ratchet or impact wrench is also not a good idea because the rapid turning of the nut *can" lead to melting. Hell, I've even seized NyLocks using a human powered Craftsman 3/8 drive ratchet!
Sorry - I STHU now.
Tom
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