Tire PSI?

[Jdjaguar]

ok. thanks!

[LanerC]

OK, so mine are also 4080 MAX at 110psi. My trailer runs about 19kLB, but let's even pretend I am at 20k max. That put's a load of 3,333 on each wheel. According to that chart I shouldn't run any more than 80psi?

EDIT: And that doesn't even include the fact that a good 15+% of that 20k is on the pin.

I run 110 cold and they creep up to 130 as the temperature outside approaches 95 or so. I believe the tire sidewall actually states maximum load at 110 lbs not max pressure. Not sure now, maybe it also says max pressure. I always wonder what kind of load there is on the tires when you go over a dip in the road and the whole camper is forced downward.

[jadatis]

I had this question as well as I live in FL and my 110 cold psi tires heat up to 130-132 easily on hot long travel days..
That bothered me, so I pull up to rest stop and drop them 5 psi to 125.

Should I just let them run at 130? and not bother?

ie is there a MAXIMUM psi that 110 cold G tires can safely be run?

that is the real question.

Did a long story, but puched a wrong buten and it all dissapeared, so here the short(er) version.

Dont be afraid of to high pressure, tires are tested to can stand( if new and undamaged) a 2 to 3 times the maxloadpressure, so 2x 110 psi is 220 psi.
What you might worry about is the temperature in the tire, wich is related to the tire-material temperature, for wich pressure determination is all done for, so tire-material dont overheat.

Yourmost likely external sensors give temp at end of the valve, wich is lower then the tire inside gascompound.

Recently made a pressure/temperature calculator and filled in your 110psi filled at 65 degrF ( yes?).
Then 132psi means if no water in tire ( like with Nitrogen filling for instance), temp us then 158 degr F. Wich is to hit if driving in 70 degrF ambiënt temperature.
If enaugh water in tire, 146 degrF, wich is still a bit to hot for 70 degF ambiënt temp.

If you now lower it to 125 psi, more deflection of tire, so more heatproduction, so hotter inside tire gascompound, and hotter tire-material, mayby then overheated, wich gives little internal cracks, wich tear further in time, untill mayby only after 10000 miles that far that tire blows or treath seperates. Then relation to that once overheated is long forgotten. So this overheating tire-material is only allowed "ZERO" times in tires use.

Better then would be using a higher cold pressure, fi 120 psi, so then e en higher pressure warm, but lower temperature of tire inside, and tire material.

Estimated once, that if no external factors.
70 degrF ambiënt, 140 degrF tire inside max allowed
100 degrF ambiënt, 160 degrF. tire inside max allowed.
Then tire material wont go over critical temp of, again I estimated 340 degrF.

[jadatis]

Where is my long story gone to?

[Ynot4me2]

Where is my long story gone to?

It looks like you deleted it. Would you like it undeleted?

[jadatis]

Yes please, was already a second story, I might have deleted by accident.
Editing posts in this forum seems to go wrong.

[jadatis]

See you already did, thanks. The t
messages after that can be deleted then.

[jadatis]

Little correction then
Was 130 psi.
Dry temp then 149 degrF.
Wet temp then 139 degrF.
But what was the ambiënt temperature you drove in?

Will not try to correct eventual typing errors, risking deleted post again.
Is because doing it all on mobile phone, wich asks much of fine motorics of this 63 years old man.

[huntindog]

Did a long story, but puched a wrong buten and it all dissapeared, so here the short(er) version.

Dont be afraid of to high pressure, tires are tested to can stand( if new and undamaged) a 2 to 3 times the maxloadpressure, so 2x 110 psi is 220 psi.
What you might worry about is the temperature in the tire, wich is related to the tire-material temperature, for wich pressure determination is all done for, so tire-material dont overheat.

Yourmost likely external sensors give temp at end of the valve, wich is lower then the tire inside gascompound.

Recently made a pressure/temperature calculator and filled in your 110psi filled at 65 degrF ( yes?).
Then 132psi means if no water in tire ( like with Nitrogen filling for instance), temp us then 158 degr F. Wich is to hit if driving in 70 degrF ambiënt temperature.
If enaugh water in tire, 146 degrF, wich is still a bit to hot for 70 degF ambiënt temp.

If you now lower it to 125 psi, more deflection of tire, so more heatproduction, so hotter inside tire gascompound, and hotter tire-material, mayby then overheated, wich gives little internal cracks, wich tear further in time, untill mayby only after 10000 miles that far that tire blows or treath seperates. Then relation to that once overheated is long forgotten. So this overheating tire-material is only allowed "ZERO" times in tires use.

Better then would be using a higher cold pressure, fi 120 psi, so then e en higher pressure warm, but lower temperature of tire inside, and tire material.

Estimated once, that if no external factors.
70 degrF ambiënt, 140 degrF tire inside max allowed
100 degrF ambiënt, 160 degrF. tire inside max allowed.
Then tire material wont go over critical temp of, again I estimated 340 degrF.

In Arizona we see 115 or higher every summer. The asphalt is probably 160 or so. I don't yet know what my TPMS will show at those conditions, as I have been able to avoid towing in the afternoon since I got it...

And I am in the camp of full pressure in RV tires. These tires are so unreliable that there is no point in making them more prone to failure by lowering pressure.

[Jdjaguar]

So I screwed up by dropping 5lbs of pressure (131 down to 126). point taken.

I only drove another hour and tires heated back up to 128.

Ambient temperature was 88 degrees. Tires were filled to cold PSI 110 at 75 degrees.

Hopefully I didn't damage the inner walls as the above poster mentioned. Clearly I will never reduce pressure ever again
when it hits the 130s.

Return trip, tires peaked rose from 110 to 128. ambient temperature 80 degrees.