GD Imagine 22MLE 12 volt system

[zygmunt]

I was looking the owner's manual and could not find a list of what components are on the 12 volt system. I found a page "Approximate Electrical Load Rating", but would like to know if the water pump is on the 120 volt system or 12 volt system. The reason I ask, before I buy an inverter, I would like to know what type of transfer switch I need to install. I know that the refrigerator and outlets are on the 120 system, but what else? Thanks!

[NB Canada]

The water pump is 12 volts
The fridge and water heater use 12 volts when using propane

The only thing 120 volts is the outlets. So anything plugged into an outlet needs 120 volts
Everything else is 12 volt


2021 Imagine 2400 BH
2018 GMC Sierra 4x4 crew

[Ynot4me2]

Come to think about it, not much is dedicated to 120v. in addition to what @NB Canada mentioned, microwave, TV and range hood are dedicated 120v as like he said they are plugged into the outlets. The rest is all 12v.

[Second Chance]

Your RV actually has three electrical systems (1 110 volt AC and two 12 volt DC):

1) the 12 volt DC automotive system operates the running lights (tail, stop, clearance, etc.) and the electric trailer brakes. It gets its power from the tow vehicle (with one exception explained below).

2) the 12 volt DC "house" system that operates the following:

• interior and porch lights
• water pump
• vent fans
• control board for your RV refrigerator
• control board for your water heater
• control board(s) and thermostat(s) for your air conditioner(s)
• controls and blower motor for the furnace
• slide motors
• electric stabilizers/levelers or landing gear (whichever you have)

3) The 110 volt AC (actually 117 – 120 volts, but we won't get into that here) house system that operates:

• the electric heating element on your RV refrigerator (when not on propane but still must have 12 volts for the controls)
• the electric heating element on your water heater (same as frig still has to have 12 volts for controls)
• the compressor(s) and fan(s) for the air conditioner(s)
• electric fireplace
• microwave oven
• television and entertainment equipment
• all electrical outlets

The exception I referred to above involves the battery and the converter. The converter charges the battery and the battery supplies power to all of the things in #2 but only the trailer brakes in an emergency in #1 . The converter requires 120 VAC to charge the battery and, while plugged into shore power, it provides 12 volts DC to all of the 12 volt equipment listed in #2 above. The converter is the interface between the AC and DC systems (except for the automotive system in #1 ). If you "fry" the converter with 220 volts, the battery will eventually run down and none of the 12 volt stuff in #2 will work. 220 volts may also fry the heating elements in the frig and water heater if they were on. The main things at risk for damage from over-voltage from shore power are all the things listed in #3 (except the outlets unless they had something plugged into them) and the converter.

[zygmunt]

Thanks for the update. You provided the best information and update. I appreciate it. Thanks Again!

[rootusrootus]

3) The 110 volt AC (actually 117 – 120 volts, but we won't get into that here) house system that operates:

The whole 110 thing has so much inertia, I have to be impressed. We've been standardized on 240 (and therefore 120 for the splits) for almost 40 years. But it gets repeated so often, that even younger folks say 110. Not calling out anyone in particular as 'old', but it won't be that long before people who were alive for <120V are no longer around, and I bet plenty of people will *still* call it 110 .

Acceptable range at the receptacle is 114-126.