Water line schematics

[SGillis]

Hi everyone!
I am trying to figure out how to put a 12v water recirculation pump in my 315. It would recirculate the water so it wouldn't freeze.
I am hoping that somebody has a good idea how abd where the lines run. I know GD does not have the schematic for this...But hope that somebody may have traced it out ....Scott

[howson]

Hi everyone!
I am trying to figure out how to put a 12v water recirculation pump in my 315. It would recirculate the water so it wouldn't freeze.
I am hoping that somebody has a good idea how abd where the lines run. I know GD does not have the schematic for this...But hope that somebody may have traced it out ....Scott

You may be the trailblazer on this one, Scott!

[FT4NOW]

Hi everyone!
I am trying to figure out how to put a 12v water recirculation pump in my 315. It would recirculate the water so it wouldn't freeze.
I am hoping that somebody has a good idea how abd where the lines run. I know GD does not have the schematic for this...But hope that somebody may have traced it out ....Scott

Are you trying to only circulate what's in the fresh water tank? Otherwise I can't see how you would recirc all the water that is dead headed at the faucets without adding additional plumbing. I wonder if the extra effort is worth it compared to either running the furnace to heat the under belly or adding an electric heater with possible blower motor to the uderbelly, maybe even on a thermostat controlled outlet.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Cate&Rob]

Hi everyone!
I am trying to figure out how to put a 12v water recirculation pump in my 315. It would recirculate the water so it wouldn't freeze.
I am hoping that somebody has a good idea how abd where the lines run. I know GD does not have the schematic for this...But hope that somebody may have traced it out ....Scott

Hi Scott,

This is an intriguing idea. I have been thinking about this since we had our off line discussion on this idea. The water lines most likely to freeze are the hot and cold going to the kitchen and the water line to/from the fresh tank. My approach would be to tee into the hot and cold lines under the kitchen sink with two very small lines and valves that could be adjusted to very low flow and lead these two lines back to the fresh tank. Cracking open these valves (or using solenoids if you wanted to make this electric/automatic) would drain a small amount of warmed water back into the fresh tank and keep water circulating throughout the system. The only problem would be listening the the water pump cycle on and off. A parallel continuous quiet pump could be used to bypass the main pump. This would best be controlled by an electric switch that opened/closed input/output solenoid valves when this pump was turned on/off.

Probably more complex than just running the furnace as mentioned earlier . . . but, an interesting idea.

Rob

[Jims94vmx]

would it have to be from the fresh tank? If on city water why not just a T under the kitchen sink?

[SGillis]

Hi Scott,

This is an intriguing idea. I have been thinking about this since we had our off line discussion on this idea. The water lines most likely to freeze are the hot and cold going to the kitchen and the water line to/from the fresh tank. My approach would be to tee into the hot and cold lines under the kitchen sink with two very small lines and valves that could be adjusted to very low flow and lead these two lines back to the fresh tank. Cracking open these valves (or using solenoids if you wanted to make this electric/automatic) would drain a small amount of warmed water back into the fresh tank and keep water circulating throughout the system. The only problem would be listening the the water pump cycle on and off. A parallel continuous quiet pump could be used to bypass the main pump. This would best be controlled by an electric switch that opened/closed input/output solenoid valves when this pump was turned on/off.

Probably more complex than just running the furnace as mentioned earlier . . . but, an interesting idea.

Rob

This is not my idea. Dennis Milford has this same setup in his 315. His runs off of 110 and he runs his off of city line.
He put a recirculation pump under the sink and the Inlet comes off the hot water line under the sink with ball shut off valve. The outlet of the pump goes to a ball and then the cold water line under the sink. It is thermocouple controlled and runs when the water gets to the designated temperature. The water keeps going around and around until it is needed. I do not stay hooked up to city water.I use my fresh water. So I am trying to figure out how to make it work on 12v with the fresh tank.

Here is a pic of Dennis's set up. He has been using it in the neg digits with no problems with the in door plumbing. Scott

[Cate&Rob]

This is not my idea. Dennis Milford has this same setup in his 315. His runs off of 110 and he runs his off of city line.
He put a recirculation pump under the sink and the Inlet comes off the hot water line under the sink with ball shut off valve. The outlet of the pump goes to a ball and then the cold water line under the sink. It is thermocouple controlled and runs when the water gets to the designated temperature. The water keeps going around and around until it is needed. I do not stay hooked up to city water.I use my fresh water. So I am trying to figure out how to make it work on 12v with the fresh tank.Scott

Hi Scott,

I understand what you are saying. I have some experience with a circulation system like Dennis is using. In my case, this was a commercial building where the showers were a long way from the water heaters. It could take five minutes for a low flow shower head to bring warm water through 3/4" pipes from 50 ft away. What intrigues me about this idea for an RV is putting warmed water back into the fresh water tank to keep it from freezing and then drawing this warmed water back to the pump through the line from the tank. Using city water, is really no different than just leaving the taps dripping to draw water through the intake hose and the RV plumbing . . . but (and an important "but") you have to be draining your grey tanks continuously if you are doing this. This also offers no freeze protection for the fresh tank or the line from it.

Rob

[powerscol]

Scott
For the most part you can see where the lines run by pulling the basement wall. The other thing is to look at all of the water distribution panel diagrams found here. To determine what line feeds where have someone open a faucet and feel the lines from the panel. You should be able to feel the vibration of the pump when holding a live line.
Good luck

[Country Campers]

So on the nautilus panel there is a setting for using the pump to power fill the fresh tank. Would it be possible to tie into this and a hot line for the recirculating? But as I say that you would need check valves in many positions to allow recirculating water to pass and then when needed pump water to pass. I would think maybe some valves to be added at the sinks to turn sink off but allow water to recirculate. I think I may have recirculated myself into a corner.

Doable I think for some of the lines but maybe not all.

Brian

[howson]

Scott
For the most part you can see where the lines run by pulling the basement wall. The other thing is to look at all of the water distribution panel diagrams found here. To determine what line feeds where have someone open a faucet and feel the lines from the panel. You should be able to feel the vibration of the pump when holding a live line.
Good luck

There's a basement in the 315RLTS? Where is that rascal? (I'm kidding, obviously.)

He's going to get to drop the coroplast <sp?> if Scott's serious about knowing where all the plumbing goes. If he does, pictures are a must!