Water line schematics

**powerscol** · 01-26-2019, 07:02 PM

Originally Posted by howson

There's a basement in the 315RLTS? Where is that rascal? (I'm kidding, obviously.)

He's going to get to drop the coroplast <sp?> if Scott's serious about knowing where all the plumbing goes. If he does, pictures are a must!

DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OK slap my upside the head

I deserved that.

What do you right minded folks call the pass through where there is the bulkhead hiding the pump, etc and nautilus panel on your TT?

Hopefully he knows what I mean.

Ill go back to my corner now

**SGillis** · 01-27-2019, 08:43 AM

Originally Posted by Jims94vmx

would it have to be from the fresh tank? If on city water why not just a T under the kitchen sink?

Jim ...we winter camp. I dont leave the city water on. I fill up the fresh and use that. Dennis who uses this system on 110 and city water. His just cycles in a closed loop. I am trying to figure out how to do this and still have use of the factory water pump...Scott

**SGillis** · 01-27-2019, 08:51 AM

Originally Posted by Cate&Rob

Hi Scott,

I understand what you are saying. I have some experience with a circulation system like Dennis is using. In my case, this was a commercial building where the showers were a long way from the water heaters. It could take five minutes for a low flow shower head to bring warm water through 3/4" pipes from 50 ft away. What intrigues me about this idea for an RV is putting warmed water back into the fresh water tank to keep it from freezing and then drawing this warmed water back to the pump through the line from the tank. Using city water, is really no different than just leaving the taps dripping to draw water through the intake hose and the RV plumbing . . . but (and an important "but") you have to be draining your grey tanks continuously if you are doing this. This also offers no freeze protection for the fresh tank or the line from it.

Rob

Rob...I am a little lost here.. If the water is flowing back into the tank. Wont it eventually put all the water back into the tank and not pull it back out until you turn on the factory pump?
I would think that you could put a 12 v switch valve in the line and use that to by pass the factory pump? I am not understanding how it would continuously loop in the system. When it is putting water back in the tank.

**Cate&Rob** · 01-27-2019, 09:55 AM

Originally Posted by SGillis

Rob...I am a little lost here.. If the water is flowing back into the tank. Wont it eventually put all the water back into the tank and not pull it back out until you turn on the factory pump?
I would think that you could put a 12 v switch valve in the line and use that to by pass the factory pump? I am not understanding how it would continuously loop in the system. When it is putting water back in the tank.

Hi Scott,

My thought would be to put a small 12V low pressure constant run pump in parallel with the main 12V pump. (I haven't found this pump yet . . . but, it is out there somewhere

). I would plumb each side of it with a solenoid ball valve. I would also put these solenoid valves on the small drain lines back ot the fresh tank. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I use one of these valves on my city water inlet, powered by the water heater switch so that when we leave the trailer, turning off the water heater shuts off city water to the trailer . . . but, I digress)

Wiring all these to the same switch would mean that this one switch would power the bypass pump, open the adjacent ball valves and open the return drains to the tank. These valves draw no power in the fully open or fully closed position, so the only 12V power use would be the small bypass pump. You would have to shut off the main pump and drain system pressure before engaging this system. A thermal switch could be used to turn this system on, to save more power.

Perhaps more complicated than this is worth . . . but, I have been known to do that before

.

Rob

**Jims94vmx** · 01-27-2019, 02:53 PM

looking to pick up a pump tomorrow but having trouble knowing which one....some have sensors that will turn off at 94* but if that sensor is under the sink then i would think the water could freeze near the low point drains before it senses the need in the island....?

Home depot has this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-Ho...5800/100426993 that is the one in question. I really like the idea of it cycling every half hour or so when really cold.....i do like the way it would tie in the plumbing under the sink using the manifold.....i also want to put pump under sink......going down to single digits and below 0 in a few days....grrrrr.

**Cate&Rob** · 01-27-2019, 03:18 PM

Originally Posted by Jims94vmx

looking to pick up a pump tomorrow but having trouble knowing which one....some have sensors that will turn off at 94* but if that sensor is under the sink then i would think the water could freeze near the low point drains before it senses the need in the island....?

Home depot has this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-Ho...5800/100426993 that is the one in question. I really like the idea of it cycling every half hour or so when really cold.....i do like the way it would tie in the plumbing under the sink using the manifold.....i also want to put pump under sink......going down to single digits and below 0 in a few days....grrrrr.

Hi Jim,

I am interested in how this is going to work in an RV. If I read the installation instructions correctly, this device pumps water from the hot water line into the cold water line. This leaves the fresh water tank and the line from this tank to the pump with uncirculated water that could freeze. If the tank is drained and you are running on "city" water, how are you protecting the outside hose and connections?

Rob

**Jims94vmx** · 01-27-2019, 03:52 PM

Hey Rob, not sure if this will be the pump i use, but, it shows in it can be used anywhere inline also. My water is underground and i am using a Pirit heated hose. Fresh tank has actually been full because of the last weeks high winds....didn't want to be without water at all.....

**Jims94vmx** · 01-27-2019, 03:56 PM

i want to do the pump in the island. I also like the idea of stainless water lines instead of pex if using the manifold to link hot and cold....

**SGillis** · 01-28-2019, 12:28 PM

If I understand Dennis correctly...The long wait for the warmer and hot water will be over. The water will be warm to hot right away from the hot and cold side of the sink. He said you would have to shut the recirculation pump off to get cold water out of the cold side. ...Scott

**Jims94vmx** · 01-28-2019, 01:54 PM

i picked up the Watts today. 199 (insurance). Did a rough in to see how i would put it. since it is designed to go straight up i am going to cut the hot pex line coming up into the island. then all i have to do is use the supplied manifold that has a sensor in it. It has 4 hookups. i use the supplied stainless line from each line coming in to the ends of the manifold and then use the faucet lines into the top part. This way it will work normally or cycle if the sensor sees it is below the set point of 98* i think. It has an off, on (pump always on), or timer that has 15 min intervals through a 24 hour period. Timer can be set to turn pump on at say 3 PM and be on for 15,30,45 or hours.

So pump can actually run for say 15 minutes and when the sensor reaches temp it shuts of the flow of water but the pump stays running till the end of 15 minutes......I will try it at on each hour for 15 minutes which should give me about 45 minutes off.....i may adjust this. Never did this before.