New to RV'ing. 1997 F150 towing a GD 231 RK

**fredakers** · 10-21-2023, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by NB Canada

Within specs? Not much no

If you want to stay within specs the first thing you need to do is go weigh your truck if not then we are just guessing

Don’t get me wrong, If it were me with my towing experience I would not hesitate to haul most trailers with your truck a short distance even if it were over specs but that is me and ymmv. You seemed like you were concerned

Thank you . . . yes I am concerned only because this is all new for me. My mind basically is a blank tapestry being painted on and some of you guys are gracious to do the honors. That said, I am getting schooled and narrowing down some action points . . . thanks again.

**fredakers** · 10-21-2023, 10:53 AM

Originally Posted by NB Canada

You can purchase a scale yes

Who typically has one that I could rent or borrow?

**fredakers** · 10-21-2023, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by NB Canada

Within specs? Not much no

If you want to stay within specs the first thing you need to do is go weigh your truck if not then we are just guessing

Don’t get me wrong, If it were me with my towing experience I would not hesitate to haul most trailers with your truck a short distance even if it were over specs but that is me and ymmv. You seemed like you were concerned

Ok, yes, I will go weigh my truck, thank you for that.

**sande005** · 10-21-2023, 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by fredakers

Is there a way to measure tongue weight before hitching it to the truck?

Here's a link to a few different ways:
https://www.curtmfg.com/trailer-part...ers/learn-more

I've used the bathroom scale method several times, and it always is pretty close to what a full on truck scale results in

Never, never, never believe any manufacturers published tongue weight, or empty weight. Go by the trailer GVWR, and multiply by 12% for the tongue weight. That will give you a decent number to estimate by.
Trailers always come from the factory heavier than their "dry weight". And listed tongue weights don't include full propane, batteries, or any extra due to the dry weight overage....the 12% guestimate does account for that, though.

Your receiver is also a bit deceiving in the ratings. Here's a generic chart from a manufacturer. https://www.curtmfg.com/types-trailer-hitches Using the chart, you can PULL 10,000 lbs with it, But with a normal ball, it can't exceed 1,000 lbs of tongue weight. If you use a weight distributing hitch, it shows you can go up to 1,200 lbs of tongue. So that is your second most restrictive amount, after overall truck payload ability. What Ford says may be a bit different (although not a lot).

**Riverbug** · 10-22-2023, 07:25 AM

Originally Posted by sande005

Here's a link to a few different ways:
https://www.curtmfg.com/trailer-part...ers/learn-more

I've used the bathroom scale method several times, and it always is pretty close to what a full on truck scale results in

Never, never, never believe any manufacturers published tongue weight, or empty weight. Go by the trailer GVWR, and multiply by 12% for the tongue weight. That will give you a decent number to estimate by.
Trailers always come from the factory heavier than their "dry weight". And listed tongue weights don't include full propane, batteries, or any extra due to the dry weight overage....the 12% guestimate does account for that, though.

Your receiver is also a bit deceiving in the ratings. Here's a generic chart from a manufacturer. https://www.curtmfg.com/types-trailer-hitches Using the chart, you can PULL 10,000 lbs with it, But with a normal ball, it can't exceed 1,000 lbs of tongue weight. If you use a weight distributing hitch, it shows you can go up to 1,200 lbs of tongue. So that is your second most restrictive amount, after overall truck payload ability. What Ford says may be a bit different (although not a lot).

@fredakers What @sande005 said is very important. You state one number for the hitch. You're not alone - so many people new to towing RV's have to learn the nuances like all of us here did who are trying to help. Just like tow ratings on a truck, people look at the tow capacity and don't realize it's actually more important to understand the payload/CCC. Same with a hitch. The tow rating may be 10,000#, but if the tongue weight capacity is only 600#, you'll likely never be able to tow 10,000# anyway. So, look for all the numbers. What are the capacities for towing, tongue, with WDH, and without WDH. That's how you'll determine for certain that you are safe. It isn't until you get into larger 3/4 or 1 tons that the hitch ratings are the same whether or not you use a WDH. For the record, I still use one even though I'm well within my specs. It just makes for a much more comfortable towing experience in winds and mountains, and the sway control helps just that much more (provided I remember to turn off the truck's electronic sway control...).

Now all that said. If the transcend is less than 5,000# and your tongue weight is at 10% (500#), it's unlikely that you would be overloading the hitch. If it's over that, then you're going to be pushing it. However, if you get a WDH either way, you wouldn't have to worry about it. If you really only travel locally, you should be just fine. But WDH is the key I think and well worth the cost. Weigh the truck and RV so you know the weights, and redistribute things or remove them if you find you're pushing any of the limits. Good luck!!

**sande005** · 10-22-2023, 05:29 PM

Originally Posted by Riverbug

@fredakers What @sande005 said is very important. You state one number for the hitch. You're not alone - so many people new to towing RV's have to learn the nuances like all of us here did who are trying to help. Just like tow ratings on a truck, people look at the tow capacity and don't realize it's actually more important to understand the payload/CCC. Same with a hitch. The tow rating may be 10,000#, but if the tongue weight capacity is only 600#, you'll likely never be able to tow 10,000# anyway. So, look for all the numbers. What are the capacities for towing, tongue, with WDH, and without WDH. That's how you'll determine for certain that you are safe. It isn't until you get into larger 3/4 or 1 tons that the hitch ratings are the same whether or not you use a WDH. For the record, I still use one even though I'm well within my specs. It just makes for a much more comfortable towing experience in winds and mountains, and the sway control helps just that much more (provided I remember to turn off the truck's electronic sway control...).

Now all that said. If the transcend is less than 5,000# and your tongue weight is at 10% (500#), it's unlikely that you would be overloading the hitch. If it's over that, then you're going to be pushing it. However, if you get a WDH either way, you wouldn't have to worry about it. If you really only travel locally, you should be just fine. But WDH is the key I think and well worth the cost. Weigh the truck and RV so you know the weights, and redistribute things or remove them if you find you're pushing any of the limits. Good luck!!

Thanks for the mention of my post. Since we're on the subject...proper tongue weight is VERY important. True sway, when the trailer starts to wag back and forth, can build VERY quickly, to the point of throwing everything off the road. It is only due to not having enough tongue weight. Do a YouTube search for lots of demos done by various Universities, demonstrating with a car/trailer model on a treadmill. Unfortunately, it is a dynamic system, so finding the minimum is a "try it" situation. Most find 11% to 13% of the current weight of the trailer covers it well. Some can get down to 10%, but it depends....I was on the ragged edge (got it enough to set off the truck alarms, but not really bad) at 10.5%.

Those with payload concerns hope to lessen the tongue weight by adding a counter weight (bikes, generator, etc.) to the back of the trailer. But that can be risky if taken beyond what the front needs. Hence the 12% figure you see - it keeps you in the "safe" range. Going heavier won't have super bad effects - except then you get into truck rear end squat, using up payload, etc. concerns.

Don't confuse true sway with other driving disturbances. "Truck suck", wind pushes, porpoising, and a host of other driveability issues are sometimes referred to as sway. Those may be disconcerting, and give you sweaty palms, but they generally won't kill you...unless, of course, they also serve to tip the balance and start the trailer swaying. (that finger push shown in the videos).

**lorend** · 10-25-2023, 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by fredakers

Ok all, very very good information . . . I thank you all. We are now looking at a 2024 Grand Design Transcend Xplor 200MK. Hitch weight is 480 pounds. This is the lowest weight unit Grand Design makes. I cannot get another truck and I don't mind going the back roads with it. We are not getting this trailer for travel. We are going back and forth from the storage to our land and the terrain is flat. The distance is only 25 miles each way.

Do you see any issues with what I am contemplating now? Dry weight is 4796. Again, we are not doing ANY travelling with this trailer, only going back and forth 25 miles over flat terrain. Thank you all again.

Many years ago we towed a 24ft 5000lb trailer with a 1989 Chev 1/2 ton with a no-name wd hitch. We were all over the hills of the Rockies, Cascades and Sierra Nevada's with no problems, except, for only doing about 40mph up some of the long hills. For what you are describing for your plans, if you look at the truck axle weights, mainly the rear, and the hitch numbers are not way out of whack, I would have no problems making that trip. It does come down to a decision that only you can make. Best of luck to you.

**RV Sailor** · 10-26-2023, 12:04 AM

Originally Posted by fredakers

Door sticker, where is payload? My owners manual says it will pull 7,200 lbs.

Attachment 48588

You are fixated on towing capacity which means bubkas
It’s the PAYLOAD CAPCITY which determines whether you can control what’s over you back wheels. You are over with the 150 series truck. Our 2500RL is similar to your weights.

**Marcel** · 10-29-2023, 08:28 AM

IMO a 1/2 ton truck shouldn't tow a trailer longer than 25', even if the numbers allow it, too much tail wagging the dog.

**kb0zke** · 10-29-2023, 07:08 PM

As others have alluded to, what "can" be done and what "should" be done are two very different things. Many years ago, Wally Byam (founder of Airstream) towed a new Airstream with a bicycle. True, he didn't go very far and he certainly didn't go very fast, but he did it.

Your F150 can probably drag the trailer back and forth a few times without any apparent issues. One day, though, you may notice that it doesn't seem to be performing as it used to. A visit to the shop will end with the news that you need a new transmission. After you pick yourself up from the floor you may start to think that the cost of the new transmission would have gone a long way toward a more capable truck.

Someone mentioned that you may be wanting to keep the overall cost down. I wonder if this might be a loved truck (maybe your father's) and you are simply wondering if it is capable of doing this job. If that's the case, I would say "No, it isn't" and move on. If that truck is, indeed, something that has some history and meaning to you, please don't damage it by asking it to do what it can't. You will always kick yourself for doing that.