Moving Lithium battery under Dinette in MLE22

**Riverbug** · 03-27-2024, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV

I agree with adding a "True" Cut-Off switch, in-line, on the positive battery cable.

I prefer to use the Blue-Sea battery switches however...

Amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Battery-Switch

Yep, that's good too. I just wanted the marine style where I could have the switch mounted in the wall so the switch was accessible on the outside of the dinette but the wires connect behind the wall. They're both good marine switches so that is the important thing.

**retired_engineer** · 03-27-2024, 03:35 PM

I've thought about this too though it hasn't made my list as of yet. Will the battery cutoff be an issue with the Furrion solar charge controller since it will see no load? I assume for a 25A controller the exist wiring from the converter to the front of the trailer will be adequate if not optimum for solar charging and battery maintenance.

**Riverbug** · 03-27-2024, 06:25 PM

Originally Posted by retired_engineer

I've thought about this too though it hasn't made my list as of yet. Will the battery cutoff be an issue with the Furrion solar charge controller since it will see no load? I assume for a 25A controller the exist wiring from the converter to the front of the trailer will be adequate if not optimum for solar charging and battery maintenance.

For whatever reason GD doesn't install a kill switch or cutoff breaker for solar. One should be installed so that you can cut the power coming from the panels to the solar controller. I like the cutoff breaker style, but many people just use a cutoff switch without the breakers. In any case, you would probably be best off disconnecting the existing output wires from the controller and running new wires directly back to the battery. This way if you want to cut the main switch off for all 12V power but leave the solar on, you can. When you want them both off, you can do that. Also, since you want to store lithium at 40% to 60%, depending on battery, you can cut the solar off while letting power draw until it gets down to the % you want before cutting off the main switch. Hope that makes sense.

**retired_engineer** · 03-27-2024, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by Riverbug

For whatever reason GD doesn't install a kill switch or cutoff breaker for solar. One should be installed so that you can cut the power coming from the panels to the solar controller. I like the cutoff breaker style, but many people just use a cutoff switch without the breakers. In any case, you would probably be best off disconnecting the existing output wires from the controller and running new wires directly back to the battery. This way if you want to cut the main switch off for all 12V power but leave the solar on, you can. When you want them both off, you can do that. Also, since you want to store lithium at 40% to 60%, depending on battery, you can cut the solar off while letting power draw until it gets down to the % you want before cutting off the main switch. Hope that makes sense.

It makes sense. Thanks.

I don't think you would want everything to go through the new cutoff switch. At a minimum I would want to leave the breakaway switch always on in case I am traveling and forgot to turn the battery on. I would also want to keep the front jack powered all of the time so I can move the trailer in the driveway as needed.

As far as a cutoff switch for the solar panels that might be a good use for the old cutoff switch in the pass-through storage. I've not chased wires but all of that stuff is pretty close under there.

**SolarPoweredRV** · 03-27-2024, 11:29 PM

Originally Posted by retired_engineer

It makes sense. Thanks.

I don't think you would want everything to go through the new cutoff switch. At a minimum I would want to leave the breakaway switch always on in case I am traveling and forgot to turn the battery on. I would also want to keep the front jack powered all of the time so I can move the trailer in the driveway as needed.

As far as a cutoff switch for the solar panels that might be a good use for the old cutoff switch in the pass-through storage. I've not chased wires but all of that stuff is pretty close under there.

If you install a complete cut-off switch, you couldn't forget to turn it on before a trip because, your front jack would not operate, and you will be forced to turn on the batteries to move the coach.

I installed a DC breaker, in-line, just before my Solar wires entered the Solar Charge Controller. I also have an in-line, resettable, breaker on the positive wire coming out of the Solar Charge Controller. The first breaker protects my Solar panels (and Controller) and the second breaker protects the cables coming out of the Solar Charge Controller.

If I stored my coach with the electric system turned off, I would turn both breakers off. However, I store my coach with the Solar and electrical system operational. This is because the storage lot is fairly close to the house and we often pop-in, just to check on things. This also allows us to keep the thermostatically controlled exhaust fans turned on to keep the coach fresh.

**Riverbug** · 03-28-2024, 07:02 AM

Originally Posted by retired_engineer

It makes sense. Thanks.

I don't think you would want everything to go through the new cutoff switch. At a minimum I would want to leave the breakaway switch always on in case I am traveling and forgot to turn the battery on. I would also want to keep the front jack powered all of the time so I can move the trailer in the driveway as needed.

As far as a cutoff switch for the solar panels that might be a good use for the old cutoff switch in the pass-through storage. I've not chased wires but all of that stuff is pretty close under there.

Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV

If you install a complete cut-off switch, you couldn't forget to turn it on before a trip because, your front jack would not operate, and you will be forced to turn on the batteries to move the coach.

I installed a DC breaker, in-line, just before my Solar wires entered the Solar Charge Controller. I also have an in-line, resettable, breaker on the positive wire coming out of the Solar Charge Controller. The first breaker protects my Solar panels (and Controller) and the second breaker protects the cables coming out of the Solar Charge Controller.

If I stored my coach with the electric system turned off, I would turn both breakers off. However, I store my coach with the Solar and electrical system operational. This is because the storage lot is fairly close to the house and we often pop-in, just to check on things. This also allows us to keep the thermostatically controlled exhaust fans turned on to keep the coach fresh.

I guess the only thing I would say is that you wouldn't really forget to turn on the cutoff switch when you go to raise or lower the front jacks to put it on your tow vehicle and there is no power. But either way works. I like a cutoff switch that I know actually cuts all power. I pretty much only turn it off when storing for the season or working on something, otherwise, it's on.

**retired_engineer** · 03-28-2024, 08:41 AM

Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV

If you install a complete cut-off switch, you couldn't forget to turn it on before a trip because, your front jack would not operate, and you will be forced to turn on the batteries to move the coach.

I installed a DC breaker, in-line, just before my Solar wires entered the Solar Charge Controller. I also have an in-line, resettable, breaker on the positive wire coming out of the Solar Charge Controller. The first breaker protects my Solar panels (and Controller) and the second breaker protects the cables coming out of the Solar Charge Controller.

If I stored my coach with the electric system turned off, I would turn both breakers off. However, I store my coach with the Solar and electrical system operational. This is because the storage lot is fairly close to the house and we often pop-in, just to check on things. This also allows us to keep the thermostatically controlled exhaust fans turned on to keep the coach fresh.

Originally Posted by Riverbug

I guess the only thing I would say is that you wouldn't really forget to turn on the cutoff switch when you go to raise or lower the front jacks to put it on your tow vehicle and there is no power. But either way works. I like a cutoff switch that I know actually cuts all power. I pretty much only turn it off when storing for the season or working on something, otherwise, it's on.

Good point on the no power to the jack. I guess I'm so use to it always having power I don't think about it not being disconnected.

Personally I would still want the jack wired directly to the battery. I have a driveway extension where I store our trailer. This area is far from level and is tight up to a row of bushes. To work on or wash the trailer I pull it onto the main driveway where I have more room and less of an incline without ever entering the trailer.

**Jimander1** · 03-28-2024, 08:14 PM

I initially attached the + lead to the DC panel, just below where the Charge Controller attaches, and the gnd to the buss behind the circuit panel. This bypassed the OEM cutoff switch, and it was not working correctly. Power went backwards through it...It toggled power to the jack, brakes and tire minder. Direct connect to the panel also caused me concern about the solar charge to the battery. With battery disconnected, Solar providerd direct power to run the LED lights, refrigerator light, control panel, and motion lights. Not happy with the weird/backwards, somewhat reversed elecrical functions, I decided to use 18ft of 6 ga wire the + where the original termination was originally connected near the tongue, where the lead acid used to be connected. Once connected, solar and original battery disconnect function was restored, power to jack, brakes, tire pressure sender, all OK. GD was not helpful at all when I tried to obtain a schematic to see how solar and power relate to each other and cutoffs.