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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper Clanker24's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scousers View Post
    SRM 27 is not a deep cycle, it just has a few more Ah than a SRM 24 standard crank attery. Check the interstate web site for supporting documentation.
    SRM27 is a deep cycle battery. I have 2 of them that r 6 1/2 yrs old. This year I noticed my battery power was down and after winterizing I removed the batteries and one of them was toast. 4 of the 6 holes had hardened.
    John & Joanne
    2018 Solitude 374TH
    2018 GMC 3500HD Duramax CC DRW
    2001 Harley Ultra Classic

  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper Clanker24's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scousers View Post
    SRM 27 is not a deep cycle, it just has a few more Ah than a SRM 24 standard crank attery. Check the interstate web site for supporting documentation.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    John & Joanne
    2018 Solitude 374TH
    2018 GMC 3500HD Duramax CC DRW
    2001 Harley Ultra Classic

  3. #13
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoChris View Post
    I am hoping to get some documentation to support my case. Otherwise I am confident I will just get more of the "I have been doing this for xx years and believe me your battery is fine" line. But yes, I do intend to follow up with someone higher up in the dealership (if I can find them).

    Chris
    Very unlikely you will get them to replace the battery if it passed a load test. I would not like this either but they will run on the battery passing even though longevity of the battery may have been reduced slightly. I would be more concerned with the condition of the water pump.
    MidwestCamper

    Jim & Dawn
    Near Milford, Michigan
    2017 Imagine 2600RB
    2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab 4x4

  4. #14
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    With everything considered battery being depleted to a point of discharge that it will reduce battery life but still passing a load test would some type of compromise be in order. I could understand the dealer not wanting to pay for a new battery when yours is still testing good. On the other hand you have a battery that now has lost some of it's life. Maybe some type of reduction of your bill or some type of refund. Another way might be a credit in their store. That way you could get things for your camper and the dealer isn't taking as big of a hit.
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
    2022 GMC 3500 Denali Duramax Longbed SRW
    2015 GMC Denali 3500 - Retired
    2003 F350 - retired
    Michigan
    We're in trouble now, the dog are bloggin'!
    https://3dogsandatrailer.wordpress.com/


  5. #15
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhittleBurner View Post
    With everything considered battery being depleted to a point of discharge that it will reduce battery life but still passing a load test would some type of compromise be in order. I could understand the dealer not wanting to pay for a new battery when yours is still testing good. On the other hand you have a battery that now has lost some of it's life. Maybe some type of reduction of your bill or some type of refund. Another way might be a credit in their store. That way you could get things for your camper and the dealer isn't taking as big of a hit.
    Excellent point and approach. I will keep this in mind if they will not replace the battery.

    Thank you

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  6. #16
    Long Hauler DaveMatthewsBand's Avatar
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    Dealer killed battery. Need supporting documents

    If y’all plan on doing any extended boondocking you would need to replace the factory battery anyway.

    Silver lining?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Resistance is Not Futile, It's Voltage Divided by Current.


  7. #17
    Site Sponsor RobM's Avatar
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    Same thing happened here. I just picked up my trailer after a month to have some warranty work done. Both one year old original group 27's down to about 4.5 volts after they left the battery disconnect "on". Hope to see what the WFCO can do for them over the next several days. The manager is supposed to get with me to confer on this.
    First noticed the problem when my landing gear wouldn't raise easily, and the outside panel red lite went into blink mode. The inside panel was able to override and get the landing gear up in manual mode very slowly.
    I guess I don't understand the system, but my cord was plugged into the truck with the truck running when I attempted to raise the landing gear.
    At some point, doesn't the tow vehicle electrical system take over the trailer DC load to raise the gear? Or does the tow vehicle just augment the overall DC system's ability where all power requirements still go through the low voltage trailer batteries?
    thanks in advance for the insight!
    Rob M
    RobM
    2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 L5P, Transfer Flow 35 Gal Aux Fuel Tank, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit Tonneau Cover
    2018 Solitude 310-GKR, Curt Q-20 puck system hitch, TST TPMS 507, Titan discs

  8. #18
    Long Hauler
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    Rob

    You should test the plug receptacle in the truck for I believe the center post should be hot if it is hooked up from the factory. I have heard some that was not hooked up from the factory.
    If you have a hot there then check inside the RV for it to come into the battery. Not sure how a solitude is wired my reflection has a row of small automatic breakers for battery power.
    Not sure if mine is right either but will check(if I remember).

    Brian

  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper Clanker24's Avatar
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    Even though u hooked up to the truck. Believe u still need a charged battery as everything runs off the coach battery power. It would take a while for the truck to charge the coach battery
    John & Joanne
    2018 Solitude 374TH
    2018 GMC 3500HD Duramax CC DRW
    2001 Harley Ultra Classic

  10. #20
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobM View Post
    .... I guess I don't understand the system, but my cord was plugged into the truck with the truck running when I attempted to raise the landing gear.
    At some point, doesn't the tow vehicle electrical system take over the trailer DC load to raise the gear? Or does the tow vehicle just augment the overall DC system's ability where all power requirements still go through the low voltage trailer batteries?
    thanks in advance for the insight!
    Rob M
    RobM: A number of things here. The truck has limited (I would guess 20~30 amps but do not know for sure) capacity to the trailer through the RV connector. Also, the trailer battery is always in the circuit if the battery disconnect switch is on. The two together means if the battery is deeply discharged, like yours was, it can take the truck a long time (multiple hours) to charge the battery up to the point the 12v systems will work. It is possible that the truck will see the dead/low battery as a short and turn off the charging system to the trailer (sometimes the electronics in the truck are too smart for our own good). Also, some trucks (like my 2017 Ford) you have to hook you the trailer AND step on the brake before it will start changing the trailer.

    One thing that comes to mind is "can you just turn off the battery disconnect and run the landing gear off the truck". That would depend on how the truck is wired into the trailer (battery disconnect may or may not disconnect the truck from the trailer - I do not know). However, the landing gear on my Solitude draws around 50 amps under load and spikes up higher. If (and this is a big if) the truck is limited to 20~30 amps, then no the truck does not supply enough power to run the landing gear. by itself.

    In am emergency, I would jumper the truck directly to the trailer battery with jumper cable just like you would do to start another car with a dead battery. This puts a huge load on the truck electrical system and and it very hard on the trailer battery (you will initially be charging it a a very high rate of charge current). That is why I say in an emergency, but it can get you going. Keep an eye on the trailer battery temperature (and watch out for boiling the acid) and on the temperature of the jumper cable. I would try that for a few (5?) minutes and then disconnect and check the battery voltage. If using jumpers directly from the truck. If this gets the trailer battery voltage up to around 11.5v or higher, (with the cables disconnected) I would keep charging it for another 10~15 mins. That should be enough charge with the truck hooked up and running to get the slides in and hooded up. If the battery voltage is still well below 11.5v after 5 min, the battery is probably to far gone to recover and it will just be a drain on the system. You will have to replace the battery at that point.

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

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