How many Moryrde X Factors are needed

[Dale G]

I have been looking into different upgrades to improve the suspension and maybe extend its life. The most popular seems to be the Morryde CRE 3000 and Heavy Duty Shackle Upgrade Kit. Since I have an Imagine 2670MK I was also thinking of adding the Morryde X Factor to the center hanger to help stiffen this area. I was wondering if it is worth the money to install the X Factor on the end hangers as well or is that just a waste of money?

Thanks,
Dale

[JColeman]

I have one on our Solitude 310GK to go with our MORryde CRE3000, HD shackles/wet bolts and disc brakes. Couldn't be happier with all of it but I don't notice the X-Factor. I suppose that's a good thing.

[Hwktlg8]

We have all three xfactors installed. They are available on amazon for fairly cheap, are diy if you can use a socket wrench and will strengthen the spring hangers in a sharp turn where alot of lateral torque is put on the suspension.

[Dale G]

I have one on our Solitude 310GK to go with our MORryde CRE3000, HD shackles/wet bolts and disc brakes. Couldn't be happier with all of it but I don't notice the X-Factor. I suppose that's a good thing.

We have all three xfactors installed. They are available on amazon for fairly cheap, are diy if you can use a socket wrench and will strengthen the spring hangers in a sharp turn where alot of lateral torque is put on the suspension.

Thanks, I appreciate the response. Seems logical to do all three while you are laying under the trailer. How difficult is it to install the CRE3000 and shackle/wet bolt kit? I am fairly mechanical and do a lot of items myself, but I will be doing it myself with no helper.

Dale

[gbkims]

Thanks, I appreciate the response. Seems logical to do all three while you are laying under the trailer. How difficult is it to install the CRE3000 and shackle/wet bolt kit? I am fairly mechanical and do a lot of items myself, but I will be doing it myself with no helper.

Dale

Steven@147 has a good write up: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...llation-2950RL

Also one man job for me. Did one side at a time, leaving the tires on the opposite side.
Like to have jackstands at front of frame and back behind axle so keep it solid while I'm working.
I like to have 2 stubby bottle jacks with wood half moons to put below the axles at the u-bolts so I can adjust them up & down to get spring tension off the shackle bolts and line up the equalizer.
edit: The jacks under the axles also help prevent the shackles from flipping.
I worked one end of a spring at a time so I didn't have to wrangle them back in line as they sometimes have some side tension.
Front:

Rear:

[Dale G]

Steven@147 has a good write up: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...llation-2950RL

Also one man job for me. Did one side at a time, leaving the tires on the opposite side.
Like to have jackstands at front of frame and back behind axle so keep it solid while I'm working.
I like to have 2 stubby bottle jacks with wood half moons to put below the axles at the u-bolts so I can adjust them up & down to get spring tension off the shackle bolts and line up the equalizer.
I worked one end of a spring at a time so I didn't have to wrangle them back in line as they sometimes have some side tension.

Thanks, I appreciate the information and pictures.

Dale

[cookinwitdiesel]

I installed all 3. Figured if I am underneath I may as well. I have also heard stories of those end hangers stressing and breaking loose. This should help mitigate that. Some people have reinforcements welded onto the frame for those hangers, this seemed easier to me since I was installing the SRE4000 and shackle/wet bolt kit anyways.

On my Solitude, I had to move the propane hose (starboard side) going to the outdoor kitchen towards the middle of the trailer a little and it just got pushed up against the choroplast which flexes by the cross member. On the port side, I had the metal tube housing the fresh water tank drain, same deal, just pushed up slightly with cross member and still works fine.

The worst part for me was just getting the trailer jacked up and on stands. I had all 4 wheels off since I was having the tires swapped out at the same time so needed ALL my stands and blocks on deck lol. I did use the leveling jacks to help with both raising, and holding the trailer as well (but also use jack stands, they are not a substitute).

When installing the wet bolts, it is a good idea to have the shackle bolts with the grease zerks facing inwards towards the underside of the trailer, so you can grease with the wheel still on. The 3 bolts going through the hangers though (equalizer and 2 ends) you need facing outwards (especially if installing the cross members - they come with special longer bolts to account for going through the cross member frame). They are still accessible to grease with the wheels on. Remember on all of those bolts when tightening/torquing, brace the bolt itself and spin the nut as the bolts need to seat into the shackles/hangers by design.

The whole job was made much easier by the use of my new 20v wireless DeWalt 1/2" Impact Wrench (the thing is awesome!) with needed sockets installed.

[JColeman]

Looks like your grease fittings are on the outside. Can you reach them without removing the tires?

[Dale G]

I installed all 3. Figured if I am underneath I may as well. I have also heard stories of those end hangers stressing and breaking loose. This should help mitigate that. Some people have reinforcements welded onto the frame for those hangers, this seemed easier to me since I was installing the SRE4000 and shackle/wet bolt kit anyways.

On my Solitude, I had to move the propane hose (starboard side) going to the outdoor kitchen towards the middle of the trailer a little and it just got pushed up against the choroplast which flexes by the cross member. On the port side, I had the metal tube housing the fresh water tank drain, same deal, just pushed up slightly with cross member and still works fine.

The worst part for me was just getting the trailer jacked up and on stands. I had all 4 wheels off since I was having the tires swapped out at the same time so needed ALL my stands and blocks on deck lol. I did use the leveling jacks to help with both raising, and holding the trailer as well (but also use jack stands, they are not a substitute).

When installing the wet bolts, it is a good idea to have the shackle bolts with the grease zerks facing inwards towards the underside of the trailer, so you can grease with the wheel still on. The 3 bolts going through the hangers though (equalizer and 2 ends) you need facing outwards (especially if installing the cross members - they come with special longer bolts to account for going through the cross member frame). They are still accessible to grease with the wheels on. Remember on all of those bolts when tightening/torquing, brace the bolt itself and spin the nut as the bolts need to seat into the shackles/hangers by design.

The whole job was made much easier by the use of my new 20v wireless DeWalt 1/2" Impact Wrench (the thing is awesome!) with needed sockets installed.

Thanks, I appreciate all of the great advice. I don't think I can use the SRE4000 kit since my axles are 4400lbs and MORryde's website says it is for axles 5200 to 7000lbs. To bad, I really liked what that setup was able to do for ride quality. But the CRE3000 will still be a great improvement. I am going out this afternoon with MORryde's qualification paper to make sure the unit will work with my camper.

Thanks again,
Dale

[cookinwitdiesel]

Thanks, I appreciate all of the great advice. I don't think I can use the SRE4000 kit since my axles are 4400lbs and MORryde's website says it is for axles 5200 to 7000lbs. To bad, I really liked what that setup was able to do for ride quality. But the CRE3000 will still be a great improvement. I am going out this afternoon with MORryde's qualification paper to make sure the unit will work with my camper.

Thanks again,
Dale

You are correct on the weights. the CRE3000 is still a great fit for the lighter trailer - you should be very happy with it.