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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by BabyBober View Post
    If the door is the same thickness then the locks would be the same. I only have 1 lock on my front compartment in the middle. On the two ends of the door are "twist latches". On the side doors of my 5er are slam latches and the doors are much thicker... Hope this helps.
    Jim
    Mine did as well, but I chose to add the locks to all 3. I think I installed the 5/8" and had to turn the catch around. I have a 2018 307MKS.

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor jbailey's Avatar
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    Scott,
    If you search on "keyed alike" or "storage compartment keys" you should be able to find a great thread started by Jim about swapping these out. I have an inverter etc... in my front compartment as well. I have rekeyed every lock on the trailer to be the same one. On my front compartment I actually removed the two thumb turns on the outside and replaced them with keyed locks and moved one of the thumb screws to the middle. I felt like all it would take is to undo one of the thumbscrews and you could get a screwdriver in there and pry the door open with only a center lock in the door.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ben & Camille
    2022 Ford F450 King Ranch
    B&W Factory Puck 5th Wheel Hitch
    2016 Reflection 303RLS 4/2015

  3. #13
    Long Hauler DaveMatthewsBand's Avatar
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    Upgrade the front compartment lock on 5er?

    Jdjdjdjddj
    Resistance is Not Futile, It's Voltage Divided by Current.


  4. #14
    Site Sponsor
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    Not wanting to hijack the thread, but it just occurred to me that after 50+ yrs of RV-ing, I have never had anyone pick a lock or break a door/window to get in my RV. Yet I have had 2 trucks and 3 sedans broken into by having the lock picked or windows broken. Maybe I should change the locks on my vehicles to the standard CH751 locks !! Sorry - The thought just came to me.
    2018 GD Reflections 337RLS, 2021 Ram 3500 Cummins 4x4 CC w/auto level dually, TrailAir pinbox, B&W Companion hitch, Fold-A-Cover Tonneau

  5. #15
    Seasoned Camper
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    Basecamp is a condo in Everett, WA
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    So, I've bought a camper shell locking bar and twist lock handle. I'm going to install next week. I'll let you know if it works.


    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Scott & Glenda
    2017 Solitude 300 GK
    2018 GMC Sierra 3500 HD 4x4 CrewCab SRW Denali
    DEMCO Hitchhiker 18K Autoslide
    Air Lift 5000+ air bags with onboard wireless-one compressor, Retrax bed cover

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    Scott & Glenda
    2017 Solitude 300 GK
    2018 GMC Sierra 3500 HD 4x4 CrewCab SRW Denali
    DEMCO Hitchhiker 18K Autoslide
    Air Lift 5000+ air bags with onboard wireless-one compressor, Retrax bed cover

  7. #17
    Long Hauler DaveMatthewsBand's Avatar
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    Upgrade the front compartment lock on 5er?

    Quote Originally Posted by jvenard View Post
    Not much for security when you can open them with a paperclip on the bottom of the knob??
    You obviously didn’t read the fine print, in order to use the reset hole on these combination locks you have to first input the correct combination, only then can you reset it and change the combination.

    I installed a set of these several months ago and posted a review on this forum.
    They’re easy to turn and read and use.
    Installed Combi-Cam locks

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...4&share_type=t



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Resistance is Not Futile, It's Voltage Divided by Current.


  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper
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    Will today I installed an additional lock on my front compartment. I know this little mod isn't going to keep out someone who really wants in there, but it made me feel a bit better. The only other thing is I now have to use 2 keys to get into that compartment. But the new lock is a Bauer brand do maybe I can have it re-keyed to match. This is a camper shell lock with locking bars. I bought the 72"set of bars and a lock handle that doesn't protrude as much as the regular T handles you see on most camper shells. My opening was 60"so after figuring that the throw off the lock bars was 3/4", I cut the bars down to 61.5"at max extension. I drilled the handle mounting holes, put in the handle, then attached the bars and drilled holes for the sliding bar guides. I used Stainless steel machine screws to mount. Once done I tried the lock and found that I needed to stand off the bar guides by 3/16" in order for the bars to get behind the door frame. So those came off, some washers went on, and everything was reattached and viola, it works.
    I'm happy with the modification, it was less than$30.00, and it gives me a bit of price of mind that my$1000's of dollars of inverter, batteries, and solar charge controller will be a tad safer.



    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Scott & Glenda
    2017 Solitude 300 GK
    2018 GMC Sierra 3500 HD 4x4 CrewCab SRW Denali
    DEMCO Hitchhiker 18K Autoslide
    Air Lift 5000+ air bags with onboard wireless-one compressor, Retrax bed cover

  9. #19
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    If yours is too difficult to get into most times the thieves will move on to one that is easier.
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
    2022 GMC 3500 Denali Duramax Longbed SRW
    2015 GMC Denali 3500 - Retired
    2003 F350 - retired
    Michigan
    We're in trouble now, the dog are bloggin'!
    https://3dogsandatrailer.wordpress.com/


  10. #20
    Long Hauler DaveMatthewsBand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82alaska View Post
    Will today I installed an additional lock on my front compartment. I know this little mod isn't going to keep out someone who really wants in there, but it made me feel a bit better. The only other thing is I now have to use 2 keys to get into that compartment. But the new lock is a Bauer brand do maybe I can have it re-keyed to match. This is a camper shell lock with locking bars. I bought the 72"set of bars and a lock handle that doesn't protrude as much as the regular T handles you see on most camper shells. My opening was 60"so after figuring that the throw off the lock bars was 3/4", I cut the bars down to 61.5"at max extension. I drilled the handle mounting holes, put in the handle, then attached the bars and drilled holes for the sliding bar guides. I used Stainless steel machine screws to mount. Once done I tried the lock and found that I needed to stand off the bar guides by 3/16" in order for the bars to get behind the door frame. So those came off, some washers went on, and everything was reattached and viola, it works.
    I'm happy with the modification, it was less than$30.00, and it gives me a bit of price of mind that my$1000's of dollars of inverter, batteries, and solar charge controller
    Nice!

    I have several $k in our front compartment as well so I’ve been looking for something like this.

    Thanks for the post and photos!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Resistance is Not Futile, It's Voltage Divided by Current.


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