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Thread: Water heater issue
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01-28-2020, 08:43 AM #1
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Water heater issue
I've got a 2018 399 Momentum toyhauler and noticed this morning that my hot water was only warm, not hot. I was using shore power for electric water heating. The fact that the water was warm (but much colder than what I've experienced in the past) suggests that the water heater has two heating elements and one of them is either blown or there is some sort of a breaker that tripped one to stay off. I've gone through my manuals and don't have one for the water heater so thought I'd post here to see if anybody has had a similar situation or can advise on the mechanical/electrical aspects of the water heater. Thanks in advance for your response.
Phil
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01-28-2020, 08:53 AM #2
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First thing to check … Be sure your outdoor "shower" valves are both closed.
Jim (& Sharon)
2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
The toy:
2017 RZR XP 1000 EPS SE
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01-28-2020, 09:27 AM #3
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Thanks Jim. You're response suggests that the water is running freely to the outside somewhere? If so, I did check and all is good.
Phil
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01-28-2020, 09:45 AM #4
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Also, when I switch the system to heat with propane, I don't have the problem....err.
P.
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01-28-2020, 01:19 PM #5
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check the electrical plug on the water heater dsi board.
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01-28-2020, 01:48 PM #6
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Actually I was alluding to the fact that many have been stumped by the cold and hot being connected through the outside "shower" manifold when the valves are open (but the shower fitting is off) causing cold and hot to mix causing luke warm water instead of hot.
But if it works fine on propane it's probably something else.Jim (& Sharon)
2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
The toy:
2017 RZR XP 1000 EPS SE
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01-28-2020, 02:27 PM #7
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Thank you. The location of the board is where, please? My current thought is that because the temp is warm (and having eliminated the issue of an open manifold that Jim has correctly pointed to) that maybe the element is going bad but hasn't failed yet. The element should have a resistance of ~ 10 ohms so I need to check that. A failed element wouldn't heat a thing so perhaps it's just on its way out. My multi-meter can validate this, thinking that any ohm reading over 15 would confirm this. Thoughts anyone?
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01-29-2020, 05:50 AM #8
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01-29-2020, 07:15 AM #9
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Thank you. I will check the plug but if the plug is loose, would not the element stop working. I ask because this morning
I confirmed that the water is luke warm when using shore power and no gas. I also confirmed that after heating the tank with gas, it is hot, indicating there is not an open manifold. I'll check the plug but at this point my hypothesis is that the element is going out but has yet to totally fail. Anybody's opinion on this is much appreciated. Has anyone experienced a slow death of their water heater element?
P.
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01-29-2020, 07:27 AM #10
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If the element is bad it will not work at all because it is burned in two. If you look at the DSI board you will see the relay that sends 120vac to the element. If the plug is not making a good connection the element is not getting enough amps to fully heat. If the connection is not tight you may still see 120vac but when the element calls for full amps you will see the voltage go down. Which in turn will cause the plug to get hot and eventually burn up.
Re-pack bearings necessary?
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