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08-04-2021, 10:06 PM #21
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I can't speak to exactly what Ford has done with their DC circuit to limit it, but I can tell you from practical experience that it tops out at perhaps 80W of power or so (it varies). I log the state of my entire power system several times a second, and I don't think I've ever seen about 80W contributed by the truck's charging system. To be fair, I haven't actually tried towing with the PV disconnected, and it may be that the voltage from the solar charge controller is pushing down how much the truck is willing to deliver. Maybe this weekend I'll do that while we're driving to the campground and see what I get.
Current: 2021 Transcend 261BH, 2019 Ford F250 SRW SWB CC 6.2 - Picture
Previous: 2016 Jayco X213, 2014 F150 EB 3.5
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08-04-2021, 10:20 PM #22
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- Oct 2017
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- Onalaska, WA
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We normally don't dry camp, but we plan to later this month and I can possibly give you a better answer when we get back. However shortly after we got our camper about 4 years ago and the two house batteries (regular deep cycle) were new we dry camped over night and the residential frig was fine the next morning. I ran a 2000 watt inverter generator for about 1.5 hrs in the morning and it bumped the batteries up enough to get through the day with no problems. Since the batteries are older this may not work as well now? At any rate the inverter doesn't seem to pull the batteries down to fast. I don't know much about solar or batteries but it will be interesting to see how things go on this up coming trip. Good luck with what you are doing.
RichRich And Janet (no dog or cats, 8 grandkids but not with us all at once)
Onalaska, WA
2011 F350, 4X4, B&W hitch
2016 Solitude 300GK
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08-05-2021, 06:38 AM #23
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- May 2020
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What you are referring to is called Hole Theory. Hole Theory is where election flow is negative to positive; where an electron vacates (creates a hole) on the positive side so the next electron from the negative side moves to fill the hole.
Conventional electronic/electric theory hold that electrons flow from positive to negative (or ground); only when a draw is placed on the power source. However, the entire circuit is energized when completed even though there is no draw from the power source. Hence the warning to disconnect the negative battery cable when working on your vehicle.
Both theories apply to DC current only. AC current is another beast entirely.
Sent from my SM-N986U using TapatalkMark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel
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08-05-2021, 12:04 PM #24
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- Mar 2021
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Guys, now I am more confused than before. It was my understanding that the MPPT controller was the only device that needed to be changed to lithium when switching to LifePo4 batteries. I received no instruction from GD and read nothing in the sparse info included with my factory solar that an other changes needed to be made.
Can someone please briefly educate me? I have a 2021 380 FL-R with factory solar, Chin 300 Ah LifePo4 battery.
Thank you so much for any info you can provide.
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08-05-2021, 12:13 PM #25
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Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel
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08-05-2021, 04:18 PM #26
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- Mar 2021
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- Phoenix area, Arizona
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Thanks for responding! Im not concerned about the system not completely charging my battery. I have a charger attached when in storage and so far only using it for reefer power while loading/unloading currently. A few comments back there was discussion about the inverter and converter needing to be converted to lithium compatible also? This is what has me confused. Do I need to do more research on my converter and inverter?
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08-05-2021, 04:19 PM #27
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Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel
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08-05-2021, 04:32 PM #28
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If you want an absolutely authoritative answer, look to your battery supplier. Battle Born recommends a lithium-aware charger, but they specifically market their lithium batteries as being drop-ins. This means you can use the same charger from your lead acid battery on the lithium.
Does this mean the lead acid charger is ideal? Of course not. But a minimum install for a Battle Born lithium battery is the battery itself, nothing more.
If you want to hear it from them, here you go:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfVZ1JtGqY
I am still running a stock WFCO charger, at least for a few more days. I almost never use it, because solar has been sufficient for us so far. But we are going to be camping with full hookups in a few days (very rare for us) and I wanted a proper charger, so I bought one. But I didn't want to buy a new converter (or module), because I'm weird like that and it seems like pissing away money. So I bought a Victron charger that will be more than sufficient for our needs, and I can easily take it with me if I want to go a different route in the future. It's an IP22, if you are curious. Cheaper than replacing the converter. More portable. Made by Victron. Has bluetooth. All are appealing to me.
In the end, how well your particular battery deals with the lead acid charger comes down to the BMS. The most likely consequence of not upgrading the charger is failure to completely charge. A decent BMS should be able to protect the cells against anything else.
ETA: If the lead acid charger were your only charger, a follow-on consequence would be that you couldn't reliably measure SOC with a shunt. It needs to see full charge periodically or it drifts.Last edited by rootusrootus; 08-05-2021 at 04:48 PM. Reason: added mention of shunt
Current: 2021 Transcend 261BH, 2019 Ford F250 SRW SWB CC 6.2 - Picture
Previous: 2016 Jayco X213, 2014 F150 EB 3.5
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08-05-2021, 06:35 PM #29
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Thanks. It sounds as if you and I have the same Victron charger. I have the IP 65 12V/10A charger. I keep it plugged in when the rig is in storage. The auto trickle is great. I am also looking at the ITC SOLAR RV battery charger that goes on your pin box and charges the battery when you are in an area with no power and have no overhead sun, such as in a storage area with no available power or overhead shade. Its minimal but right now I really only need it to keep the reefer going.
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08-11-2021, 12:15 PM #30
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- May 2017
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- Middle TN
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Thanks all - I've been absorbing more through these discussions, reading Will Prowse's book and conversing with Battleborn (they have been great). I've been able to put together a short-range plan with the factory solar of 300ah Battleborns & replacement of the converter (to a Progressive Dynamics PD9100ALV). My medium-range plan will be bringing up the battery bank to 400ah, adding 1200W solar (2S/2P to use existing 10A wire), a Victron MPPT & a Multiplus II 2x120v. If I take it to a long-range plan... then new wiring to the roof, expanded solar/battery bank, etc.
2022 Momentum 351M-R
2019 Ford F450 Platinum CC 6.7L Powerstroke FX4; Truck Covers USA American Work Tonneau; B&W 25K hitch; Airlift 5000 Ultimate+ w/WirelessAir; ZRoadZ back-up lamps
Gone: 2018 Reflection 28BH; 2017 Ford F350 Platinum CCSB 6.7L Powerstroke FX4; 2015 GMC Denali 2500HD CCSB Dmax
Gone but still in the family: 2004.5 Chev 2500HD CCSB LTZ Dmax
Reflection swivel table question
Today, 08:33 AM in New To RV'ing, Purchase Questions & General Concerns