Norcold works on LP but not on AC.

[4x4dually]

Well, good news for us at least, but still leaves the unknown without a diagnosis. Never got a chance to look at the issue before we pulled out on Friday. By the time I got home, hooked up, loaded, and got everything ready, we had to pull out so we were sure to get into The Great Divide Concert 2 hrs away.

When I got to the RV park, the daymn auto-level wouldn't work either. It went up off the truck ball, but would give me an error code, red flashing light, when I hit auto-level. I went inside the storage pass-through and tried to pull up "level" on the screen and it was locked up. Pushed the reset button, it rebooted, and magically it leveled...well, not happy with that leveling job this time, but it was close enough to not roll out of bed. Normally it does really well.

Switched the fridge back to AU-AC and put a ammeter clamp on both the heater elements and each read 1.5 amps of AC. Ran fine all weekend at held 38 degrees despite putting a 30 pack of warm brew in it.

Must have just been a power issue while plugged into the recept I added at the power pole the two weeks it sat there. New location, new power source, everything works. Go figure. I'm thankful I didn't have to tear into anything and replace something but these consumer RV electronics freggin' suck. If we made electronic crap for the DOD that worked half the time and randomly went kaput, we'd all be out of jobs.

[Jammer]

My guess is when you reduce down to 110v possibly one leg of your 50a panel is powered and the fridge isn’t on that side? Maybe the 30 to 50 amp reducer powers both legs, but not sure

[deerislandbrew]

I've got something weird going on with out new '21 Reflection 367BHS. It has the double wide Norcold RV fridge. I moved the trailer to a location where I can only use the 50A to 30A adapter, then adapt down to the 15A outlet. The only thing I have at the power pole currently is a single recept.....I'm building a barn for the RV and don't have it complete yet. So, the trailer is powered by a normal extensions cord but every thing is turned off except the little AC fridge in the cubby hole and the kitchen fridge.

Went out last night and it was hot. Display still works so it's getting 12 VDC....which to me means the DC power supply on the back of the fridge is working....thus, it has to be getting AC. Also, on AU/AC mode, it doesn't light the burner so it has to be getting AC....???

Switched it to LP mode and it lights the burner and starts to cool off. I forgot to check the temp this am before coming to work, but what the heck? Has anyone had this issue? I haven't had time to really dive into the schematic and start checking things yet, but it just seems very odd...and naturally, we are taking it to camp this weekend. Go figure that I find this the night before we leave. Breaker in the bunk room for "fridge" is on and not tripped.

Any iders?

I had this same issue with my other smaller fridge in a Cougar 5th wheel. My extention cord is close to 150 ft. The fridge would not cool on AC power, but would on LP gas. I found out however, that once cooled to normal, I could switch to shore power again and the fridge would work fine. Ironically, my new rig has a 12cu dbl door and will cool just fine on AC power from scratch. Go figure...anyway. I am plugged into 15 amp service at home like you are, and I keep the batter charger on and can run the fridge as well. I should hope your new rig does not have a failure yet and that it may be on your end. Try cooling with LP then switching over. Make sure your extension cord is at least 12 gauge wire. It may be voltage and amperage drop at distance that is affecting the fridge. Also if your RV is going to live next to your home when not being used, consider putting in a power pedestal. I put one next to my rig, but my location is impracticable to run hard wire from main house panel to the location. I run 10 gauge extention cord to a pedestal and wired a 20 amp twist lock to feed a outdoor breaker box that has a 15 amp breaker with the 30 amp receptacle that you use for your RV. This set up is only 15 amp service and breaker protected for that, but the advantage is the three prong HD connections vs a regular 15 amp style house outlet plug. I have gotten a few of those styles hot enough to melt in the past. Not good..

[4x4dually]

My guess is when you reduce down to 110v possibly one leg of your 50a panel is powered and the fridge isn’t on that side? Maybe the 30 to 50 amp reducer powers both legs, but not sure

50-30 adapter connects both legs of the 50A cable on the RV to the same leg of the 30A, or at least it should. I haven't ohmed it out, maybe I should go do that. Fairly certain it is connected to both.

I had this same issue with my other smaller fridge in a Cougar 5th wheel. My extention cord is close to 150 ft. The fridge would not cool on AC power, but would on LP gas. I found out however, that once cooled to normal, I could switch to shore power again and the fridge would work fine. Ironically, my new rig has a 12cu dbl door and will cool just fine on AC power from scratch. Go figure...anyway. I am plugged into 15 amp service at home like you are, and I keep the batter charger on and can run the fridge as well. I should hope your new rig does not have a failure yet and that it may be on your end. Try cooling with LP then switching over. Make sure your extension cord is at least 12 gauge wire. It may be voltage and amperage drop at distance that is affecting the fridge. Also if your RV is going to live next to your home when not being used, consider putting in a power pedestal. I put one next to my rig, but my location is impracticable to run hard wire from main house panel to the location. I run 10 gauge extention cord to a pedestal and wired a 20 amp twist lock to feed a outdoor breaker box that has a 15 amp breaker with the 30 amp receptacle that you use for your RV. This set up is only 15 amp service and breaker protected for that, but the advantage is the three prong HD connections vs a regular 15 amp style house outlet plug. I have gotten a few of those styles hot enough to melt in the past. Not good..

Just put the last 12 sheets of tin on the roof of the RV shed yesterday. Now I'm going to run a 50A service over to it. Have sewer in the ground already. Going to stub air through the shop walls so I can winterize and maintain tires and hitch. Had water in that location already. Almost done. It's 72 x 24 x 20. Room enough for the RV at full extension (slides) and both pickups.

[Second Chance]

50-30 adapter connects both legs of the 50A cable on the RV to the same leg of the 30A, or at least it should. I haven't ohmed it out, maybe I should go do that. Fairly certain it is connected to both.

You are correct.

Rob