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  1. #1
    Big Traveler
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    Noisy Goosebox? Allow me to help..

    As many know, I'm having a love/hate long term relationship with my Gen2 Goosebox. One of the more recent issues, it's been popping terribly when I added air, and sounds like death driving down the road. Well, I fixed it today, and I wanted to let others know how. Honestly, this is a huge miss from Reese, this should be part of the manual for normal maintenance on these things.

    If you look at your GB, in the very front on the port/starboard side, you'll see a big washer and allen headed bolt. That bolt holds a rod that provides the pivot for the GB, when it articulates, it moves up and down on the rod in there.

    Well, problem is, just like any pinned connection, it's going to rust and get nasty in there. Quick version, you need to knock that pin out and grease it! Mine was terrible, covered in rust, and was a bear to get out. Once I got it out, cleaned it up, and greased it, it was also a bit of a bear to get back in; you'll need a jack to get it back into position.

    This should be (and will be for me) a yearly thing on a goosebox. That joint is GOING to give every single owner a problem eventually, it's a metal on metal, extremely high stress joint that has no way to grease it. I can promise you, given enough time, you'll have a terrible sounding and rough moving/riding GB if you don't do this.

    The real miss is two fold. First, make it recommended and detail the procedure to do what I did. Or, better yet, put a zerk on it so you can just pump a little grease into the pin every now and then. Alas, Reese didn't do either, so now you have to have some shmoe on the Internet tell you how to correctly maintain the hitch and no manual or diagrams to show you how to do it. If others are interested, I'll grab some pictures and detail out the procedure, but it's pretty self explanitory. Honestly, when you get into it and see how it's built, you'll think the same thing I did "How is this supposed to work?!" and "Who designed this joint sliding metal on metal with no way to grease it?!?!?".

    The good news, after I did it this AM, we towed about 500 miles. Quiet as a mouse, and it rode SO much better. I'm sure the articulation was being limited by the rust; a small bump wouldn't make it move so it was like a fixed hitch. Thrilled with the results, not at all thrilled I had to "figure out" how to correct maintain my hitch.

  2. #2
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    @Overtaxed, others have reported the groan from the pivot tube. Sounds like yours was pretty bad with surface rust. I had heard of the issue shortly after installing ours and have been using a spray lube regularly. The lower assembly has two holes drilled right in front of the shaft. If you look right behind the Reese badge, you will see them. Shooting blind with a straw extension and at the washers.. I am actually using my favorite firearm CLP, but CRC Power Lube or Boeshield T9 would be good too. I would prefer a greaseable shaft too, but this seems to be working so far. Maybe I'll have a look with the borescope to see if more invasive maintenance is needed after the winter slumber. Would very much be interested in seeing pictures of the fit together as the Reese diagrams are vague, and I've been too busy dealing with active problems with our coach versus having curiosity time! Lol
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  3. #3
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by geotex1 View Post
    @Overtaxed, others have reported the groan from the pivot tube. Sounds like yours was pretty bad with surface rust. I had heard of the issue shortly after installing ours and have been using a spray lube regularly. The lower assembly has two holes drilled right in front of the shaft. If you look right behind the Reese badge, you will see them. Shooting blind with a straw extension and at the washers.. I am actually using my favorite firearm CLP, but CRC Power Lube or Boeshield T9 would be good too. I would prefer a greaseable shaft too, but this seems to be working so far. Maybe I'll have a look with the borescope to see if more invasive maintenance is needed after the winter slumber. Would very much be interested in seeing pictures of the fit together as the Reese diagrams are vague, and I've been too busy dealing with active problems with our coach versus having curiosity time! Lol
    I did the "blind shoot" method too, and also tried stuff like "deep creep" around the big washers that hold the shaft in place. Apparently, from the look of it after disassembly, those methods, at least for me, aren't effective. If you open yours up, you'll see why, the pivots are actually sleeves on either side, about 1 in deep. Hard to explain, but you're not getting lube (at least not much) in there any way other than a zerk or what I did. The way this should be done is more like a wet bolt, there should be zerks on both ends of the shaft that allow you to inject grease into the joint on either side. The middle of the shaft doesn't matter, that's just in the air, it the two ends that matter where they are actually pivoting.

    This kind of reminds me of the back of my Norcold 2118, "How did you think this was a good idea". The moment you pull into it and start seeing how it's put together, you'll immediately see "this is going to be a problem". It's very similar to joints on something like a backhoe or excavator; the kind that they use where the hydraulic shafts connect to the boom or bucket. Except on an excavator, that joint will have a zerk and require grease every 10 hours or so. But the joint construction is very similar to something I'm familiar with from my tractors, and I've never seen one that doesn't have a way to grease on any of my heavy equipment.

    To open it up, you'll need two large allen keys (I don't have the size in front of me, but you'll need 2 of the same size), a hammer, a long pry bar (that can fit into the hole after the pin is out), and probably a jack (to move it back into the right position). That said, I do think there's another way to do it that wouldn't require a jack, just knock the pin out 1/2 way at a time, first to the right, grease it/clean it up, then to the left and do the same. That would be a little easier and probably just as good.

  4. #4
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overtaxed View Post
    I did the "blind shoot" method too, and also tried stuff like "deep creep" around the big washers that hold the shaft in place. Apparently, from the look of it after disassembly, those methods, at least for me, aren't effective. If you open yours up, you'll see why, the pivots are actually sleeves on either side, about 1 in deep. Hard to explain, but you're not getting lube (at least not much) in there any way other than a zerk or what I did. The way this should be done is more like a wet bolt, there should be zerks on both ends of the shaft that allow you to inject grease into the joint on either side. The middle of the shaft doesn't matter, that's just in the air, it the two ends that matter where they are actually pivoting.

    This kind of reminds me of the back of my Norcold 2118, "How did you think this was a good idea". The moment you pull into it and start seeing how it's put together, you'll immediately see "this is going to be a problem". It's very similar to joints on something like a backhoe or excavator; the kind that they use where the hydraulic shafts connect to the boom or bucket. Except on an excavator, that joint will have a zerk and require grease every 10 hours or so. But the joint construction is very similar to something I'm familiar with from my tractors, and I've never seen one that doesn't have a way to grease on any of my heavy equipment.

    To open it up, you'll need two large allen keys (I don't have the size in front of me, but you'll need 2 of the same size), a hammer, a long pry bar (that can fit into the hole after the pin is out), and probably a jack (to move it back into the right position). That said, I do think there's another way to do it that wouldn't require a jack, just knock the pin out 1/2 way at a time, first to the right, grease it/clean it up, then to the left and do the same. That would be a little easier and probably just as good.
    AHA! This is a type of pivot you do see on machinery then! I only have a fairly modern backhoe-loader these days, but have seen exactly as you describe on equipment when I was young and helping around the farm. They were always true hard chrome though... Sounds like the only thing I will need to verify is that I have two drifts the right diameter to push it either side and retain the alignment while servicing the other end. Did you happen to get the recommended torque from Horizon Global?
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  5. #5
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by geotex1 View Post
    AHA! This is a type of pivot you do see on machinery then! I only have a fairly modern backhoe-loader these days, but have seen exactly as you describe on equipment when I was young and helping around the farm. They were always true hard chrome though... Sounds like the only thing I will need to verify is that I have two drifts the right diameter to push it either side and retain the alignment while servicing the other end. Did you happen to get the recommended torque from Horizon Global?
    Yup, exactly like that. And I don't think that pin is hard chrome (if it is, it's not very good chrome because it was badly pitted/rusted on mine). I didn't have the right size drift (I was doing it in a moochdock parking lot!), but if you did, it would be dead simple. Honestly, best of all would be just getting a 2nd pin from Reese, grease up the new one, and use the new one to push the old one out; that way you'd never have to deal with alignment.

    I didn't get the torque specs, but the bolt is only there to keep the washer in place. It's not pulling the pin in at all (the pin is larger than the shaft, so it can float). Given that, I went with a torque spec of "tight" +/- 5ft/lbs. If I was doing this at home, I would have put a dab of locktite blue on there, it's a joint you just need to make sure stays in place, not a joint that has to hold much/any force. The biggest issue is that it's an allen head, I wish it was just a standard hex cap bolt (and may change mine to that) for simplicity and ease of removal. Allen bolts always seem to get galled when you use them with any frequency.

  6. #6
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overtaxed View Post
    Yup, exactly like that. And I don't think that pin is hard chrome (if it is, it's not very good chrome because it was badly pitted/rusted on mine). I didn't have the right size drift (I was doing it in a moochdock parking lot!), but if you did, it would be dead simple. Honestly, best of all would be just getting a 2nd pin from Reese, grease up the new one, and use the new one to push the old one out; that way you'd never have to deal with alignment.

    I didn't get the torque specs, but the bolt is only there to keep the washer in place. It's not pulling the pin in at all (the pin is larger than the shaft, so it can float). Given that, I went with a torque spec of "tight" +/- 5ft/lbs. If I was doing this at home, I would have put a dab of locktite blue on there, it's a joint you just need to make sure stays in place, not a joint that has to hold much/any force. The biggest issue is that it's an allen head, I wish it was just a standard hex cap bolt (and may change mine to that) for simplicity and ease of removal. Allen bolts always seem to get galled when you use them with any frequency.
    Yeah, socket head fasteners take a beating because most folks do not know just because it looks like an "Allen Head" doesn't mean any old key will work and they all should be used to a torque. That's why I asked. I'll reach out to my contact at Horizon in the new year for the torque, and I like the idea of a second shaft for ease!
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    Greased mine the other day before the holiday trips. Just did one side halfway out, then back through and half way out the other side. I used a long 6" bolt to lift the end of the pin to keep alignment coming back together. Didn't take long at all.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2021 Reflection 367BHS
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  8. #8
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4dually View Post
    Greased mine the other day before the holiday trips. Just did one side halfway out, then back through and half way out the other side. I used a long 6" bolt to lift the end of the pin to keep alignment coming back together. Didn't take long at all.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Excellent photo! Perfect in fact. I'm certain I have a tapered drift that will work to keep the alignment and push the shaft back enough to lube the bearing area the polishing on yours shows. Will just need to decide on the lube based on how tight of a fit I find. Now on the season start maintenance with the wheel bearing repack and cleaning and lube of the telescoping sections for the jacks...
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    Honestly, it would have been a better design had they just used a super hardened shaft with a pin on each end. Putting a bolt into each end of a rotating shaft makes for trouble when one side decides to not break loose. Then you have to slide it out partially and use channel locks, vise grips, or a pipe wrench on it and risk marring the shaft up. If I keep this hitch for the long run, I might look into designing and having a shaft made with zerks on each end and have the lube channels drilled to come out on the pivot points. Something like a large e-clip or large hair-pin clip on each end would have sufficed since there is not axial forces.

    I need to take it all apart and see if the inner housing is pivoting on a sleeve or just the edges of some plates with holes in them as is indicated by the wear marks on my shaft. If that's the case, that a bad deal.

    I used a piece of PVC conduit to drive mine out. I didn't want to risk damaging the shaft especially since it is drilled and tapped on both ends.
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  10. #10
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4dually View Post
    Honestly, it would have been a better design had they just used a super hardened shaft with a pin on each end. Putting a bolt into each end of a rotating shaft makes for trouble when one side decides to not break loose. Then you have to slide it out partially and use channel locks, vise grips, or a pipe wrench on it and risk marring the shaft up. If I keep this hitch for the long run, I might look into designing and having a shaft made with zerks on each end and have the lube channels drilled to come out on the pivot points. Something like a large e-clip or large hair-pin clip on each end would have sufficed since there is not axial forces.

    I need to take it all apart and see if the inner housing is pivoting on a sleeve or just the edges of some plates with holes in them as is indicated by the wear marks on my shaft. If that's the case, that a bad deal.

    I used a piece of PVC conduit to drive mine out. I didn't want to risk damaging the shaft especially since it is drilled and tapped on both ends.
    Based on the polishing, it's rotating within sleeves. No big deal to have a shaft made with either end drilled with grease passage that then ports to the sleeve. Shaft can then be externally threaded for nuts and also machined flat to take a wrench if one is too tight and needs a wrench. New are made all the time for old elbows on heavy equipment. If Horizon doesn't charge an arm and a leg for another pin, I'll get one and see what my machinist would charge to make an improved replacement.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

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