My Water Hookup Mod

**WhittleBurner** · 09-16-2018, 08:11 AM

Originally Posted by Street Glider

Being inside the basement and considering the location, that risk is very, very small. I almost never get inside that area unless I am hooking/unhooking or pulling the dump valves. But hey, I only posted thinking others might like the idea of having a single water hookup and hose storage solution. If it doesn't work for you that's fine too.

I noted the risk being slim in my post ( if you read the whole thing) you misunderstood my point entirely. It was not to knock the idea of using a Manifold. Manifolds are a great tool, just a little precaution to take especially for those who store items and go into that area often.

**Street Glider** · 09-16-2018, 08:11 AM

Originally Posted by J&G garage

I spotted that brand of green water hose in a hardware store a couple weeks ago. Seems like a good flexible hose. Is it rated for potable water?

That green hose looks similar to a hose I got from Amazon to use for winterizing. If its the same, then its not rated for potable water use.

One other thing this brings to mind...I have to disconnect the elbow/hose running into my city water connection and then connect the shorter green hose in order to winterize. The onboard pump isnt strong enough to pull the RV anti-freeze through 35' of hose. But that is a minor inconvenience in my mind.

**315RLTSinPA** · 09-16-2018, 08:21 AM

Originally Posted by J&G garage

I spotted that brand of green water hose in a hardware store a couple weeks ago. Seems like a good flexible hose. Is it rated for potable water?

Yes it's drinking water safe. That is the reason I bought that brand.

**burgpath** · 09-16-2018, 08:22 AM

Flexzilla hoses ARE drinking water safe. I use them as well. Love the rotating connector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1DAFT2...ing=UTF8&psc=1

**Go Dawgs** · 09-16-2018, 08:28 AM

Very good, but I just hooked my blue coiled hose directly into the flush tank. Not mods and no hassle.

**DaveMatthewsBand** · 09-16-2018, 12:41 PM

Originally Posted by Go Dawgs

Very good, but I just hooked my blue coiled hose directly into the flush tank. Not mods and no hassle.

That’s not exactly hassle free, it actually doesn’t save any steps over just connecting a hose from the black flush to the spigot since you’d still need water going into the city connection to use the blue coiled hose.

If however you’re someone who boondocks a lot and always has water in their fresh tank, that would be a good option.

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**WhittleBurner** · 09-16-2018, 01:25 PM

When in Florida for an extended period we have a manifold with four spouts that we connect to the spigot. That way we have a lot of options like washing the truck and having a hose to the camping side of the trailer and one for the black tank flush . This way we never have to undue water from the trailer. For short stops we don/t bother with it. Works for us.

**Cate&Rob** · 09-16-2018, 01:42 PM

Originally Posted by Street Glider

Nice 315RLTSinPA. I really like the water pressure gauge. i might have to add that to my setup.

I know that I must sound like a broken record on the pressure gauge idea. See post 10 . . . https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...189#post180189 I find it baffling that so many will guess at or mis-diagnose their water system problems when this simple diagnostic gauge will answer all sorts of questions.

Rob

**Cate&Rob** · 09-16-2018, 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by WhittleBurner

I wouldn't leave the black rinse hooked up unless it is being used.
needless to say but..the black never stays connected while not in use any more.

I would strongly agree with this. There should be nothing attached to the separate black tank flush connection at the trailer unless you have a hose known to be pressurized and are actively flushing the black tank. Removing this connection allows the flush line to drain from the vacuum break to the tank and from the vacuum break to the fill connection so that no siphon action can take place. Leaving a line connected to this port (and thus the internal flush line up to the vacuum break full of water) is just asking for any number of failure modes that were not comprehended in the original "fail safe" flush system design that intended a physical disconnect from the flush connection. (In my opinion)

Rob

**boyscout** · 09-16-2018, 08:19 PM

Originally Posted by Street Glider

Being inside the basement and considering the location, that risk is very, very small. I almost never get inside that area unless I am hooking/unhooking or pulling the dump valves. But hey, I only posted thinking others might like the idea of having a single water hookup and hose storage solution. If it doesn't work for you that's fine too.

I've seen a fair number of times - don't know why, maybe someone else here does - that the black tank flush has back pressure on it. I've begun unscrewing the hose from it and water has gushed out with some force. The black tank was empty - in fact dump valve was still open - but apparently-clean water spritzed out anyway for some reason.

I like your mod, but I'd be concerned about the chance that water from the black tank flush circuit could get back into your manifold, and from there into your drinking water.

There are inexpensive brass back-flow preventers available - many campgrounds / health departments require you to have one between your hose and their water spigot. Adding one to your manifold where the black tank flush attaches would alleviate the risk I'm proposing. But as Rob says, no connection between the flushing system and the rest of your water system would be safest.

Nice job!