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  1. #11
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    Would you mind elaborating on that? Seeing this post I realized I have never actually tested mine but do recall reading somewhere that pulling the pin can cause damage, but I cannot recall why, how, or what could be damaged. I assume those are not meant to be one-time-use devices that require replacement once activated?
    During testing of the switch and activating the brake system, it puts full battery power to the braking system. Leaving the pin out of the switch too long during testing "may" heat up the brake system wires (power amps from the battery) and "maybe" cause them to over heat and maybe scorch or possibly melt a little. That is why they say pulling the pin can cause damage. Or you break the pin during testing.

    But keeping in mind that in an emergency situation the goal is to stop the RV if it becomes detached from the tow vehicle. In that case there is most likely going to be damage to the RV anyway as in wrecking it so who cares about a couple melted wires.
    Last edited by Steven@147; 03-29-2024 at 06:18 AM.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  2. #12
    Rolling Along
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    I test mine at least every year to make sure it works, if not, if I recall right, the switch is $10-15 and easy to replace. On my last trailer, one year when I did the test, I found out that the switch had somehow fried itself internally, and would not work. Nothing on the outside to show that it was damaged.
    2023 Chevy 3500HD CC SB 4x4 Dmax
    2021 GD 320G with 8K axles

  3. #13
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    One thing I would suggest, and this may be an "obvious" thing to most......but when you pull it to do the test, make sure that you pull it STRAIGHT out and NOT at an angle. I would think that would go a long way towards it NOT breaking when being pulled out.
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    During testing of the switch and activating the brake system, it puts full battery power to the braking system. Leaving the pin out of the switch too long during testing "may" heat up the brake system wires (power amps from the battery) and "maybe" cause them to over heat and maybe scorch or possibly melt a little. That is why they say pulling the pin can cause damage. Or you break the pin during testing.

    But keeping in mind that in an emergency situation the goal is to stop the RV if it becomes detached from the tow vehicle. In that case there is most likely going to be damage to the RV anyway as in wrecking it so who cares about a couple melted wires.
    Good tips. I guess it should be a quick pull of the pin to verify the brakes engage and replace it. And know how to cut the power in short order if the pin does break. Thanks.
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
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  4. #14
    Site Sponsor Gronk1's Avatar
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    I keep a spare one in the tool box (my spare box is bigger than the tool box). Some folks or kids think it's a hoot to pull them out & toss them in the bushes or to replace theirs, especially the coiled ones.
    Paul, Sue & Wonder Dog Zane
    '18 Solitude 310 GK
    "15 F-350 6.7, DRW, CC

  5. #15
    Seasoned Camper
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    This thread got me wondering just how many people actually test their break-away switch to make sure that it works. I have actually witnessed two trailers that came loose from their tow vehicle, one a travel trailer going down the freeway (going the opposite direction) and the other, a dump trailer going up a hill about 25 feet in front of me. Luckily, I was able to navigate around the dump trailer without it hitting me.

    I put together a quick video to demonstrate just how easy it is to test. The video is a little long (somewhere around 13 minutes) because I also wanted to go a little more in depth for those who may not understand exactly how the break-away switch works. If you just want to see me test the switch on my Reflection, fast forward to the last minute of the video.

    https://youtu.be/DVlmZtnbcrw?si=BWOun9TuQABiFDqq
    2022 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, RamBox, Air Lift 5000 Ultimate Plus, B&W Companion
    2022 Reflection 303RLS, Progressive hardwired EMS, Airborne Sidewinder
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jomani View Post
    This thread got me wondering just how many people actually test their break-away switch to make sure that it works. I have actually witnessed two trailers that came loose from their tow vehicle, one a travel trailer going down the freeway (going the opposite direction) and the other, a dump trailer going up a hill about 25 feet in front of me. Luckily, I was able to navigate around the dump trailer without it hitting me.

    I put together a quick video to demonstrate just how easy it is to test. The video is a little long (somewhere around 13 minutes) because I also wanted to go a little more in depth for those who may not understand exactly how the break-away switch works. If you just want to see me test the switch on my Reflection, fast forward to the last minute of the video.

    https://youtu.be/DVlmZtnbcrw?si=BWOun9TuQABiFDqq
    That was an excellent overview, thank you for taking the time to put it together and for sharing it!
    Chad
    2023 23LDE 965W Solar, Victron Multiplus, Solar Controllers, Cerbo GX, 4x280AH DIY Lithium Batteries, SeeLevel Tank Monitoring, Shock Absorbers (Replaced 2022 22MLE)
    2022 F350 6.7L Superduty, Carbonized Gray, Ultimate Lariat Pkg, 4WD, Crew Cab, 160" Wheelbase, 3.55EL Rear End, 3566# Payload
    Adaptive Steering, Ultimate Camera Pkg, 20" Wheels, 397 Amp Dual Alternator, ARE Topper (Replaced 2004 F150)

  7. #17
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jomani View Post
    This thread got me wondering just how many people actually test their break-away switch to make sure that it works. I have actually witnessed two trailers that came loose from their tow vehicle, one a travel trailer going down the freeway (going the opposite direction) and the other, a dump trailer going up a hill about 25 feet in front of me. Luckily, I was able to navigate around the dump trailer without it hitting me.

    I put together a quick video to demonstrate just how easy it is to test. The video is a little long (somewhere around 13 minutes) because I also wanted to go a little more in depth for those who may not understand exactly how the break-away switch works. If you just want to see me test the switch on my Reflection, fast forward to the last minute of the video.

    https://youtu.be/DVlmZtnbcrw?si=BWOun9TuQABiFDqq
    Excellent overview and explanation video. Well Done!
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper
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    Sorry everyone - I wanted to clean the video up a little and ended up posting a new video to YouTube. Since the URL changed and the old one is no longer available, I just wanted to post a link to the new video. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to simply edit my other post. Here is a link to the new video.

    https://youtu.be/beV2-JX4Clc?si=B1rm4cxG3jjEZbW-

    One thing that I added to the video - I dissected a break away switch and made a cutaway so you can see the actual operation of the switch. I think this made it a little easier to see why the plunger is so hard to pull out
    2022 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, RamBox, Air Lift 5000 Ultimate Plus, B&W Companion
    2022 Reflection 303RLS, Progressive hardwired EMS, Airborne Sidewinder
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  9. #19
    Rolling Along
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    I've "tested" two of those switches. The first one was on our first trailer, many years ago. We drove through a construction area where they had some steel sheets on the ground. The wire hung down just enough to snag one of those and the brakes came on. Right now! Fortunately I was able to pull over and reset the switch. Then I rerouted the wire a bit.

    The second one was on the towed when we had the motorhome. I got too close to a concrete bumper, and when I backed up the pin was pulled. The brake pedal was absolutely solid and the car wasn't going anywhere. The Invisibrake, mounted directly under the driver's seat, was making a awful racket. As soon as I reset the pin the brakes released and the Invisibrake was again silent.
    David Lininger, kb0zke
    Rev. 2:10c
    2022 Reflection 315RLTS, 2016 F350 CC SRW King Ranch
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  10. #20
    Setting Up Camp lineman1234's Avatar
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    I had an incident a few years ago. I hooked up in the dark, not plugging in the 7 way till morning to leave. I had a TT. The break away came unplugged wile i hooked up, it all looked good but wasnt. So,,, the brakes were on all night, as i was plugged in also with 2 batts on the tong, with no wire or any other damage to the breaks.
    I checked and walked around, again in the morning and plugged in the 7 way and off i went. Still didnt notice the break away pulled. Having a diesel pickup and towing less than half it was rated for, The pickup didnt notice the drag, nothing noticeable going to and stopping at a couple stop sighs and then down the highway in the dark.
    About 6 miles down the road, wile checking the mirrors and camper, i thought i saw smoke, not sure as it was dark and roads were wet from rain.
    I pulled over and the rear drivers side of the dual axels was red hot. I limped it 1 more mile to where i could pull over. Only the rear was red hot, the others just hot. I was overlooking at all the obvious, and a guy pulled up to help, and wile i was checking everything but the break away, he checked it and it was pulled out, not all the way, but out.
    I travel with the grease gun and pumped all 4 with grease and back i went.
    I ended up replacing all 4 break assembly's and barring's and such. I did my own. They all didnt have the same wear. So that tells me, ifffff, that rig came unhooked, it would put the breaks on, pulling the camper to the other lane, then rolling. Not a nice all and even stop.
    That was about a $400 dollar mistake, that didnt need to happen.
    I had and still have tire minder screw on valve stem monitors. They tell temp and psi. Supposed to alert on pre set temps and psi.. None went off, the rear one most hot was a little over the others, but not overly enough to set the alarm.

    I always did and still do, hit the axels with the heat gun wile filling up each time, as well as my pickup. Easy safety check as well as a quick glance at each tire to look for obvious nails and or bulges.

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